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Replacing brake rotors on my 2003.
Rear rotor will not come loose.
Caliper hardware off, parking brake not engaged.
other than striking it with a rubber mallet I am stuck.
Anything else that needs to be done to remove the rotor?
Please help.
If it wont come off, use a toothbrush wire brush and buff off the hub area where the rotor sits on the hub. Make sure its clean and then add some oil to to the joint.
I bet you have a rust/wear ridge on the E brake drum. That will make it difficult get off also Try rotating the rotor when you are trying to pull it off.
If you use the russell braided brake lines - you will need to add a ground wire between the caliper and the brake line attachment point on the frame on the fronts. Otherwise - the ABS sensors will throw service codes due to static buildup.
I know from experience and several others have had the same problem.
But still cheaper than the other brands.
Last edited by thomastl; May 15, 2009 at 12:14 PM.
If you use the russell braided brake lines - you will need to add a ground wire between the caliper and the brake line attachment point on the frame on the fronts. Otherwise - the ABS sensors will throw service codes due to static buildup.
I know from experience and several others have had the same problem.
But still cheaper than the other brands.
Not sure how a ground line helped. The stock rubber lines do not provide a ground and the Earl's stainless lines I have on my car do not provide a ground. The Earls lines have no continuity from the brake caliper to the stainless line itself. However, there is continuity from the fitting attached to the caliper to the other end of the line. This provides the same open circuit the stock lines provide. The Russells might have continuity from the caliper through the far end of the line where it attaches to the brake line on the frame. If there is continuity to the fitting on the far end but no continuity from that point to the frame there could be some static build up on the line itself.
The Russell linees I got had 25 ohms one side and 15 ohms other side (if I remember right). That and the braid rubbing itself as it moves, causes the problem. I think if they had properly attached the ends to create true continuity at 1 to 2 ohms or isolated them to prevent any continuity there would not be a problem.
what rotors did you go with that the stock line wasnt long enough?
I am installing Baer Eradispeed plus rotors. The rears are larger Dia than OE but listed for 97 and on C5. Baer provides brackets to move callipers out (FWD) and slightly outboard. The OE brake line just barley touches (with car jacked of course).
If you use the russell braided brake lines - you will need to add a ground wire between the caliper and the brake line attachment point on the frame on the fronts. Otherwise - the ABS sensors will throw service codes due to static buildup.
I know from experience and several others have had the same problem.
I heard about the ABS related issues that the Russel braided brake lines sometimes incur, which is why I went with the Goodridge SS braided brake lines - no grounding wire required or ABS issues - working great for over 3 years now.