help needed for a uk corvette owner!!
they stay off til i go over a bump again,
it also lights up service abs, service traction control and service active handing
i have checked the fault codes and tryed deleting them but they keep coming back on here are the codes that are coming on:
28 TCS (2 CODES) :
C1222 H
C1226 H
Can anyone give me some advice on what to do, beacuse over here in the uk there are not many corvette specialists so they dont no what there dealing with,
a friend has told me it is a abs sensor, dont want to be ordering one of this from America and finding out its not that,
is there anything that i can do to make sure its that before i buy one,
many thanks
william
they stay off til i go over a bump again,
it also lights up service abs, service traction control and service active handing
i have checked the fault codes and tryed deleting them but they keep coming back on here are the codes that are coming on:
28 TCS (2 CODES) :
C1222 H
C1226 H
Can anyone give me some advice on what to do, beacuse over here in the uk there are not many corvette specialists so they dont no what there dealing with,
a friend has told me it is a abs sensor, dont want to be ordering one of this from America and finding out its not that,
is there anything that i can do to make sure its that before i buy one,
many thanks
william
• C1222 RF Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0
• C1226 LF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation





Lets see,,,,,I wonder if Ive ever been down this road before??


You have a poor wheel speed sensor wiring harness connection and its going to be in one of the female connector pins.
Check BOTH sides but,,,I'm only going to talk about one front wheel.
The wheel speed sensor (WSS) is pretty much bullet proof. Short of bearing failure or damage from an accident,,,,I have never seen a WSS fail.
Heres a front sensor:




You need to check EACH female pin. To do it correctly, you need a MALE pin like this. I got one out of a defective switch:

Each female connector has two female pins. The tensioning arm in the pin spreads and causes a poor connection. If you insert the male pin into the female pin,,,there should be a nice tight grip on the male pin as you insert and remove it. here is an example of a brand new female connector and a BAD old connector:
Bad on the right,,,,good on the left:

I have learned that you can use a dental pick to bend that tension arm down and restore tension. If you cant do that, you will have to replace the PIN or the entire connector:

There is a JUMPER HARNESS that connects the hub to the chassis connector. That female pin often goes bad. The female pin in the chassis connector went bad in mine.
JUMPER CONNECTOR

BC
Last edited by Bill Curlee; May 15, 2009 at 09:33 PM.
So looks like your right harness has dodgy female pins as Bill says. Bill led me there a few years ago.
Good luck,
Cliff (also in UK)
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