I've been around the shop a few times and consider myself to be pretty good with a set of wrenches. I even managed a 12 bay Goodyear service center for years and ran the service department frequently.

That being said, I don't have a clue how to adjust the camber and caster on my C5. I've searched until my fingers get raw, but I cannot find any site that actually gives detailed instructions on how to do so. So someone please help me out and let me know how it's done.

 

http://www.davidfarmerstuff.com/


david has just about every DIY list for C5s & C6s DIY Info

DIY alignment guide
http://www.davidfarmerstuff.com/align.pdf


after the first time I used this I took the car to a shop to check it out on their expesive lazer digital alignment machine

They told me they could not get this accurate, and why did I even come ? they did not charge me

 

Thanks Tom. I've used David's page many times before as there is a ton of good info there, but it doesn't specify how to actually make the adjustments. I need to know things like where the adjusters are and which way to turn them.

 

A Little help?

 

I'm also about to do an alignment and would need some more info. I had my Vette lowered for quite some time, but decided to go even lower this weekend (cut rear bushings and lowered the front all the way).
I guess the Z06 specs would be ok. Anyone have the exact specs for that setup?
And detailed instructions on how to do the alignment would be nice (which bolts to turn...)

Thanks

 

Z06 Wheel Alignment Specifications

Front Alignment Specs Service Allowable Service Preferred
Front Individual Toe +0.14 to -0.06 degrees +0.04 degrees
Front Sum Toe +0.28 to -0.12 " +0.08 "
Front Individual Camber +0.50 to -0.70 " -0.20 "
Front Cross Camber +/- 0.25 " within 0.50 "
Front Individual Caster +6.4 to +7.4 " 6.9 "
Front Cross Caster +/- 0.25 " within 0.50 "
Steering Wheel Angle +1.0 to -1.0 " 0.00 "
Rear Alignment Specs Service Allowable Service Preferred
Rear Individual Toe +0.09 to -0.11 degrees -0.01 degrees
Rear Sum Toe +0.18 to -0.22 " -0.02 "
Rear Thrust Angle +0.10 to - 0.10 " 0.00 "
Rear Individual Camber +0.32 to -0.68 " -0.18 "
Rear Cross Camber -- within 0.50 "


Here are spec for all C5's

RPO Operation Service Preferred Tolerance Front Alignment Specifications
All Front Individual Toe + 0.04 +/- 0.10
All Front Sum Toe + 0.08 +/- 0.20
All Steering Wheel Angle 0.0 +/- 1.0
FE1 & FE3 Front Individual Caster + 7.4 +/- 0.5
FE1 & FE3 Front Cross Caster Within +/- 0.5 --
FE1 & FE3 Front Individual Camber - 0.20 +/- 0.5
FE1 & FE3 Front Cross Camber Within +/-0.5 --
FE4 (Z06) Front Individual Caster + 6.9 +/- 0.5
FE4 (Z06) Front Cross Caster Within +/- 0.5 --
FE4 (Z06) Front Individual Camber - 0.70 +/- 0.5
FE4 (Z06) Front Cross Camber Within +/- 0.5 --
Rear Alignment Specifications
All Rear Individual Toe - 0.01 +/- 0.10
All Rear Sum Toe - 0.02 +/- 0.20
All Rear Thrust Angle 0.0 +/- 0.10
FE1 & FE3 Rear Individual Camber - 0.18 +/- 0.5
FE1 & FE3 Rear Cross Camber Within +/- 0.5 --
FE4 (Z06) Rear Individual Camber - 0.68 +/- 0.5
FE4 (Z06) Rear Cross Camber Within +/- 0.5 --

 

It can be a little tricky to get the camber set and get the caster to come out right. I have even seen alignment shops have to think about which cam to move.
Also, if you are looking for good tire wear for street driving, I would keep the front end camber at zero to no more than -1/8 degree, and toe-in at 1/32" or less. Much more negative camber and you will get significant inside tire wear.

 

I understand how to adjust camber and toe-in 8I have done multiple wheel alignments myself on my jeep, but the procedure is a bit different to the Vette), but how is caster adjusted? Do you use the cam bolts on the lower A-arm as well for caster. If yes, does anybody have a write-up on this. Thanks. BTW, are the markings on the cam bolts to indicate the degrees of change. That way I don't have to guess and measure multiple times to get it right. Thanks, Indy.

 

oh OK. I guess I just stick in a camber plate and be done with it

 

Cool Post!

 

The markings on the cam are just reference points. They do not indicate any specific number of degrees. Negative Camber is increased by turning the cam so the smaller part of the cam the point from the bolt to the edge of the cam is toward the wheel. Doing this on both front and rear attachment points will maximize camber. Camber and Caster are inter related so when you adjust one you affect the other. To increase caster you can either reduce the amount of camber at the rear attachment point of the lower control arm by turning the cam or by adding washers behind the forward mounting point for the upper control arm. Both actions pivot the top of the knuckle toward the rear of the car which increases caster. Sometimes you may have to do a combination of washers and setting the cams to get the alignment you want. To decrease caster you can reduce the camber at the forward lower control arm attachment point or add washers behind the rear mounting point of the upper control arm. If this is the first time somebody has aligned your car since it left the factory you could find washers behind the upper control arm mounts. My 97 came with one washer for each bolt on the driver side and 2 washers for each bolt on the passenger side. The washers are not run of the mill washers. They are the same thickness all the way across and they have a nylon insert in them that holds them in place on the bolt. They cost several bucks each and I think GM is the only source of supply. Standard wheel alignment shims can be used as well.

Bill

 

Good explanation..
I still have to scratch my head to figure out which cam to move and which direction to move it to get the caster to go the right direction. And as you point out, every move also has some effect on the camber.

 

Going to read it again. Maybe I can actually retain some of it this time.

 

are you refering to individual camber(zero to 1/8 degree) a recurring prob. for me(inside tire wear) will try these specs also w/toe in at 1/32 any prob. with wander? thanks for the help....BTW great thread

 

Set your camber first then adjust caster using both front and rear adjusting bolts.
Remember to adjust caster without affecting camber it is done by turning the cams in opposite directions on the front and rear positions.
Many times an experinced alignment tech can make everthing come in by making 1 adjustment on 1 cam.
But for everone else adjust camber first by making equal adjustments on both front and rear cam bolts then adjust caster as stated above.

 

Thanks guys. I have a much better understanding of what to do now. wish me luck!

 

Did part of my alignment over the weekend (after I lowered it even more - front and rear bushings cut). The hardest part was getting the measurements to be precise. The caster was perfect to start with, so I focused on camber. Since I didn't have to change the caster, I decided to use washers on the top control arm. This made the entire procedure very simple. I left the camber under -1 for tires sake (around -.6), but changing it to a more agressive setup is easy now. Extra washers on top and that's it. Just have to do the toe-in/out up front, and I'm done. I'm probably gonna go with 0 degress for now.
Thanks for all your help! Indy

 

Most modern computer alignment equipment,once you have base line readings will actually tell you what to adjust to bring the car into specs,takes the guess work out of what shim/cam to adjust! That said,it still takes an experienced hand to compensate for local road crowns and individual cars to eliminate pulls and off ceter steering wheels.

 

If your goin to take the time to do this get the PFADT Racing Camber kit. It removes the camber bolts and uses blocks. I just picked the block that was closets to where my bolts were already set and then started dialing it in from there.

It takes some time, but using David Farmers page it was a snap. Glad I did it myself because a garage would have cringed when I walked in w/ that camber kit.

http://www.pfadtracing.com/catalog/p...products_id/44

 

I think David will actually do it for you. That is my plan when I get around to upgrading the suspension and investing in new tires. I am off to RA June 1st, installing my accusump when I return and then it is on to suspension upgrades.