Whats the best way to find out where my AC is leaking? I brought it to Midas, and they told me that the condeisor was leaking, and pointed to a solid metal part as were the dye was visable. I fellow C5 owner checked it out and said that the AC usually leaks at certain spots, and it doesnt tend to seep through solid metal (more or less saying the guys at Midas are morons).

I dont know what to do. Cant bring it into the dealership, they charge $250 just to do an AC check.

 

I would check all compression fittings and the schrader valves FIRST.
Clean up all grease and oil and then look for leaks with dye.
O rings at connections are ususlly the culprits.
BIGHANK

 

Yes and if you don't have the electonic leak detector a little soap and water will also work. But try not to foam up the water before using and you will be looking for TINY bubbles.

It is possible the evap is leaking and you will need a leak detector to find it. I normally do this by closing all ducts to the ac/ closing the doors and let it sit overnight. Then get in close doors detector in duct closest to evap (leave the others closed) then ignition on (don't start) and turn AC on MAX blower. This will blow any freon out and the detector will sound if this the location. Hopefully it isn't, best of luck.

If you haven't added freon in a couple of years you might just have normal leakage on the compressor seal. If this is the case you can top it off then verify how long it takes to stop cooling. My 99 had never had freon added and it began to cycle the compressor on really hot days. I checked and added about 6 oz freon and it is going strong. That was a month ago and it is still doing well so I suspect normal leakage. SO don't get too excited if it has been a long while and gradually lost cooling. However if it was cooling great then stopped overnight you have a leak.

 

Clean off the dye and recharge the system with dye to see if the dye reappears on the condenser (or any other part). Just be certain where the leak actually is before throwing new parts at it.

True, Freon will not seep through “solid” metal, problem is metal corrodes and excessive corrosion will compromise the integrity of the metal allowing seepage.

This is why it is imperative that a proper vacuum be drawn on the system prior to charging/recharging. The vacuum process removes moisture that will react with the Freon causing metal corrosion.

$250.00 at a Chevy dealer just for an AC system check? Really?

At the very least find a shop that specializes in automotive AC repair.

Midas? Really? I don’t trust them to do a quality exhaust system replacement, let alone do other automotive repairs. (Years past, many years past, when I used Midas, I had to jack up my C3 Corvette to readjust the exhaust after Midas failed to stop a rattle on the new exhaust they installed – after I allowed them THREE attempts. Took me 15-minutes lying on my back to alleviate the problem.

Imagine THREE attempts and the muffler shop was unsuccessful in stopping an exhaust rattle that took a backyard mechanic 15 minutes to correct lying under the car.

I had a like experience with another exhaust specialty chain on another car.

No more muffler shops with half-assed “repair personnel” for me.


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I agree. Several years ago the muffler shop installed dual exhaust on my Lincoln Mark 7 and put 2 1/2" pipe on the left and 3" on the right then to add to insult the right extended 2" further out than the left.

They also did an inspection on my C4 and wanted to reject if for the factory tint. So I avoid those shops like

Best of luck finding the leak.

 

How bad is it leaking or how often do you have to add freon?? The auto parts store sells a Super leak stop for around $35. I used this on my 2001 Chevy Blazer, which was leaking a can of freon every 2 months.. Anyhow I added the leak stop and recharged the system about 1 year ago.. It blows ice cold air and is still full of freon with no leaks.. The sealer also has a dye in it too.. In case you have a really big leak.. I thought mine was pretty bad, but the stuff really worked well and I am happy thats all it cost me

 

Sorry guys, but im learning as we go here. Ok, so no Midas, good to know. But how do I find a shop that specilizes in AC? Is there a chain or do I look for a shop on google and just call around?

My mechanic wants to start off with replacing the O rings, but told me to order them. What do I ask for? AC O Rings? I called NAPA and the dealership, and they said they need more info.... are the bands medal or plastic?

Finally, to answer David426s question about how quick it leaks: It Had NO freon in it when I bought the car...... I bought a bottle of freon and charged in myself (or the freon wanna-be stuff).... and it was cold as ice for less then a week. I will try the can of Super Leak stop, and try to replace the O rings. Is that a hard project?

 

Just check the hose connections for which o-rings you need. My guess is Green for the R134a system. The napa dealer should be able to tell you.

Yes there are some shops that do just a/c on cars you will have to shop around for one.

 

I found a place that does auto AC, but they are not open today. Ill contact them tomorrow. If they can tell me were its leaking, I can have my mechanic fix it. He thinks its the O rings, thats what I was asking about them. Are you saying that the o-rings should be green?

 

Autozone has a leak stopper, but its only $5.99. Is this what you are talking about? I dont mind paying $35 for a better product, I just want to get this problem fixed. Do you know the name of what you purchased that cost $35?

 

How many compression fittings are there? And what is the Schrader valve? Are the O rings located at the compression fittings that you mentioned?

As you can tell, im not mechanically inclined. Im just trying to find out what needs to be done so I know I can do on my own, and what I should ask for when i bring it into the AC shop.

 

I would not expect any of the old type compression fittings.

I would expect O-ring fittings. There will be a joint at the compressor and any place 2 lines connect together. There will also be o-rings at the orifice tube, and dryer.

If your shop is asking you to buy the o-rings and they can't/won't provide you a list or you should find another shop!

 

here is a link to EF products which makes Super Seal, They also will tell you who sells their product.. Pep Boys,Autozone,wal-mart are just a few/ It $35 and it works.. Remember you will need refrigerant and lubricant too,, Make sure the compressor is runnung when you put this stuff in. http://www.efproducts.com/proddetail.php?prod=325

 

Hi everyone, anyone heard of this? The AC on my 2001 convertable is leaking as well. I took the car to my "favorite" AC shop here in Houston and the owner came said the compressor is leaking. He said the compressor is a 3 section compressor model that he sees leaking frequently. I do see that the compressor seems to be in 3 sections as he said. Any thoughts on that? Has anyone heard this as being a frequent problem on C5s?

 

If your car isn't driven the front carbon/ceramic seal can dry out and possibly crack or not seat correctly. You might consider just adding some of the latest stop leak on the market. If the seal isn't cracked it might help it to reseat. The best solution to prevent this is insure you run the a/c at least 5 minutes every 10 days or so. Long term storage is hard on the compressor seal. A friend of mine with 16,000 miles on his 98 C5 just replaced the compressor for the same reason. His was parked long enough for the battery to go dead several times. I am sure his compressor was not worn out but the seals would not hold.

If the stop leak doesn't work the only option is to R&R the compressor. It is possible to change the seal but if you have any miles on the compressor a NEW one is a good option.

 

Thanks. I have 80K miles on my car. Is the new seal a dealer item? How difficult is it to pull the compressor apart and replace the seal?

 

The seal can be bought in many auto parts places. There is a special tool needed to remove the seal. I normally don't change one I replace the compressor. But best of luck if you decide to change yours. Most service manuals show the details.

 

Thanks. I'll let you know how it works out. Also, how do you get your car pic to appear on your post?

 

I took a "normal" pic and downsided it to fit, then uploaded in User CP to aviator.

 

Hi, I cannot seem to find the EF products super seal here in Houston. However, I was able to find a super seal product made by Interdynamics. It cost about $20. I understand the EF products product to cost about $35. The Interdynamics product did not work for my car. Any ideas if the EF products super seal is a much better product and if I locate it and try it should I expect to see better results than what I got from the Interdynamics product?