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AC leaking....

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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 03:36 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by David426
How bad is it leaking or how often do you have to add freon?? The auto parts store sells a Super leak stop for around $35. I used this on my 2001 Chevy Blazer, which was leaking a can of freon every 2 months.. Anyhow I added the leak stop and recharged the system about 1 year ago.. It blows ice cold air and is still full of freon with no leaks.. The sealer also has a dye in it too.. In case you have a really big leak.. I thought mine was pretty bad, but the stuff really worked well and I am happy thats all it cost me
I also have a leak at the compressor, but never gave any leak stop product a thought because of the bad things that happen when used in radiators. What if any are the drawbacks to using a leak stop product in the A/C system? Would like to try it if it won't bugger up the rest of the components.

Last edited by c3andc5; Jul 23, 2009 at 03:43 PM. Reason: missing info
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Old Jul 24, 2009 | 03:38 AM
  #22  
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In my old C4, I successfully used a product by Interdynamics called "stop leak & detector" that I bought at an auto parts store. I would be surprised if this would fix a compressor shaft seal however. I don't know the nature of the leak in my C4 as the system was essentially empty when I purchased it. That C4 used R12. I evacuated the system, added the new oil and stop leak and charged with R134a and the system was still working fine when I sold the car 5 years later.
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Old Jul 24, 2009 | 04:51 AM
  #23  
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STOP!!!!!!!!!!! If your system didn't have any pressure in it when you purchased it,,,you have bigger issues that you need to worry about.

Find the leak!! A real AC shop will have the proper tools to pin point the leaks. You can use a freon detector or die/black light system. Either way,,,find the leaks and resolve them. If you have to open the system to replace parts, you will need to "REPLACE" the RECEIVER/DRYER CANISTER, Orifice Restrictor and add the proper quantity of AC Oil.

Like timemender stated,,,,,any moisture in the system will react with the R-134 and turn into an acid. That will cause the aluminum to corrode from the inside out and develop tiny pin holes in the metal sections of the system. Drawing the system down into a vacuum will remove the moisture and air from the system. The receiver dryer has a desiccant bag in it that removes any residual moisture that the vacuum didn't remove. it will NOT remove moisture from a saturated system.

Heres a very good AC write up post that goes a little deeper into the system stuff:

C5 AC System Service and Repairs:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...post1570703001


Gene Culley can provide you any and all Corvette AC parts that you need and at very good prices. Give him a call
www.gmpartshouse.com


BC

Last edited by Bill Curlee; Jul 24, 2009 at 04:56 AM.
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Old Jul 24, 2009 | 04:53 AM
  #24  
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Heres some parts of the AC and heating system that you dont normaly see:



The canister is the receiver / dryer.

BC
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Old Jul 24, 2009 | 04:55 AM
  #25  
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Hope this helps!

BC
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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 06:54 PM
  #26  
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Default AC Leak Update

Just wanted to update on the leak for my 2001 Convertible. I used the Interdynamics Super Sealer product a few months ago and it seems to have solved the leak problem. I have not had to add any more freon to the system since the time I used the super sealer.
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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 07:44 PM
  #27  
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I can't attest to the accuracy of your mechanic's diagnosis, but 9 times out of 10 the low pressure schrader valve (fill) is leaking. Basically identical to a regular tire air valve although they do come in different sizes. As Bill mentioned, if the system was completely discharged you need to have the system evacuated ( a vacuum put on it) and the system recharged.
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 08:32 PM
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Default Schrader valves are where you measure pressures and charge the system

Originally Posted by nEttSquId
How many compression fittings are there? And what is the Schrader valve? Are the O rings located at the compression fittings that you mentioned?

As you can tell, im not mechanically inclined. Im just trying to find out what needs to be done so I know I can do on my own, and what I should ask for when i bring it into the AC shop.
The Schrader valves resemble the valves and cores used in your tires.
If they are leaking usually slowly. freon will discharge from the system. You can get NEW CORES at a place selling refrigeration supplies as they are used in almost all air conditioning systems, auto, home, and commercial. The cores are made of material that won't disintegrate when exposed to freon and compressor oil. The cores are very cheap. When I replaced the orfice expansion tube in the high pressure line on the passanger fender I replaced both cores in the HIGH side and LOW side freon lines.

The compression fittings are where the lines connect to other parts of the system eg. receiver/dryer/strainer, evaporator core. etc. The O rings are also made of special neoprane which won't degrade when exposed to freon and compressor oil. Sometimes they are green, sometimes not. DO NOT USE REGULAR O RINGS like from Harbor Freight or Home Depot as these WILL DISINTEGRATE. You can get them at an air conditioner supply or (probably more costly) order them as GM parts.
Sometimes all you have to do is TIGHTEN the fittings SLIGHTLY to stop any leaking and not replace the O rings.

Hope this helps you. BIGHANK
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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 07:55 PM
  #29  
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Which valve is the low pressure one ?
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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by DansVette
Which valve is the low pressure one ?
The low pressure side is the side with the large diameter metal line that returns to the suction side of the compressor.

Note there are two lines. One small and one large. The small carries the liquid freon to the evap and the large one carries the gas freon to the compressor to repeat the cycle.
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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jimcork1
The low pressure side is the side with the large diameter metal line that returns to the suction side of the compressor.

Note there are two lines. One small and one large. The small carries the liquid freon to the evap and the large one carries the gas freon to the compressor to repeat the cycle.
Okay, thanks a million Jim. I see the one you are refering to.
I was about to leave for a dinner party, and needed to try one of those refrigerant cans, and the directions warned about not using the high pressure side.
I've got cold air now, it worked !
Thanks again.
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