Engine bay/open intake question...
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,538
Likes: 9
From: Pasadena, CA
Engine bay/open intake question...
Lets use the Halltech Venom for example. Granted the filter is open, by taking in the hot air, could you actually lose power compared to the stock intake?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,163
Likes: 4
From: Concord California
Pro and Con, the stock setup restrict the amount of air into your motor (con). The Halltech opens up the ability for the motor to breath more air hot/cold (pro). Now hot air or cold air, it is better of the engine to breath colder more denser air (another pro). Cutting holes in the fog light housing will allow colder air in the area feeding the Halltech thus pushing the hot air towards the firewall. It would be nice to have a form of exit venting at the base of the hood to help with this flow but that's another issue. A lot of people wonder does the Halltech or K&N air kits really work, an easy way to convince them is to tell them to go for a jog only breathing thru 1 straw, then do it again breathing thru 15 straws taped together, you will see the avantage. Yes it does work. good luck.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 931
Likes: 35
From: Rowlett, Texas
Well, the stock C5 system draws air from the same area above the radiator shround as do the Blackwing, KN, Halltech, etc. It's just drawing through much smaller holes.
I did some tests with my scanner - monitoring the inlet air temp thru my Blackwing as I drove around.
1. Before I opened up the foglight shrouds, the temp would still stay within 5 degrees of ambient, AS LONG AS THE CAR WAS MOVING. As soon as I stopped, the inlet air temp soared to 120-plus. Then after I began moving, it came down VERY slowly, taking 10 minutes or more to approach to within 10-15 degrees of ambient again.
2. After opening the shrouds, the same effect was present - the inlet temp was right at ambient while moving, but when stopped at a redlight, back up to 120 pretty quickly. BUT, with the open shrouds, when I began moving againe, the temp would drop back to within 5 degrees of ambient in a minute or so.
So, the moral of the story is, the "warm air" filters like the BW and KN, etc; work much better than stock under ANY conditions. They work GREAT under constant moving. They get hot and require a significant cool-down time in stop/go traffic (like the staging lanes at the strip).
DG
I did some tests with my scanner - monitoring the inlet air temp thru my Blackwing as I drove around.
1. Before I opened up the foglight shrouds, the temp would still stay within 5 degrees of ambient, AS LONG AS THE CAR WAS MOVING. As soon as I stopped, the inlet air temp soared to 120-plus. Then after I began moving, it came down VERY slowly, taking 10 minutes or more to approach to within 10-15 degrees of ambient again.
2. After opening the shrouds, the same effect was present - the inlet temp was right at ambient while moving, but when stopped at a redlight, back up to 120 pretty quickly. BUT, with the open shrouds, when I began moving againe, the temp would drop back to within 5 degrees of ambient in a minute or so.
So, the moral of the story is, the "warm air" filters like the BW and KN, etc; work much better than stock under ANY conditions. They work GREAT under constant moving. They get hot and require a significant cool-down time in stop/go traffic (like the staging lanes at the strip).
DG
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
Another option is to modify your oem air cleaner assembly to allow more air. You can use an oem paper filter or an after market cotton gauze/oil filter. It doesn't cost you anything except for your time...and no annoying codes.
This is a very rare 110v version...
This is a very rare 110v version...
