When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
1st - Sometimes it is hard to put it in first from a stop.
- simply putting it in another gear it goes right in but does not happen often
2nd- Does not want to go all the way in. Has popped out. I tend to skip 2nd(this is not all the time about 20 percent the time there is an issue)
- Slight grind for quick shifting.
3rd - Has started to grind on quick shifts(did not happen before clutch and slave change)
4th- slight grind going in for quick shifts(same as third)
5th- fine
6th- fine
Reverse- Have not any issues.
I will be doing the shifter adjustment as soon as I can and will post an update.
-1998 C5 6spd manual with 80.5k miles
- aftermarket short throw shifter...Possibly a B&M shifter.
- Monster stage III clutch with new stock slave cylinder(old was leaking)
After the adjustment, I will drive for a week and then change the fluid.
Last edited by ovrboost; Nov 21, 2016 at 03:36 PM.
Reason: Typos
I realize this is a "trial and error process", but I would just like some guidance to steer me in the right direction. I don't want to have to tear down the center console a dozen times before I get it right. I don't have any problems with the car popping out of gear...just tough to engage 1st and reverse from a dead stop on occasion.
I had exactly the same problem with my 2000 C5 convertible with T56 6 speed, 43,000 miles. I took it to my local Chevy dealer who had their Corvette specialist look at it (they sell a lot of Vettes and the owner collects them). He verified the problem, but he didn't recommend digging into the trans or shifter. He changed the transmission oil with Dexron VI , also changed the diff fluid. Much improved...1st is 99% better than before, and 2,3,4,5,6 and reverse shift very slick.
Unless you are a skilled mechanic, which I'm not, sometimes better to bite the bullet and take it to the pros. Corrollary, sometimes the simplest fix (basic maintenance) does the trick.
Last edited by rollin59; Aug 29, 2017 at 12:19 AM.
Hey guys, I'm doing a shift alignment on my c5 z06 with a B&M short throw. Do I still need to find a pin to stick in the alignment pin hole? Or can I do the adjustment without the alignment pin? First time doing this so I want to be cautious.
Hey guys, I'm doing a shift alignment on my c5 z06 with a B&M short throw. Do I still need to find a pin to stick in the alignment pin hole? Or can I do the adjustment without the alignment pin? First time doing this so I want to be cautious.
Just use a DRILL BIT that fits SNUG in the hole!! You do NOT have to have that damn L shapped OEM pin.
I have done numerous shifter alignments. NO you do not need the pin to do it if you fully understand what the alignment does and why its important.
Its your first time doing the shifter alignment. Use the pin and see what its all about.
Just use a DRILL BIT that fits SNUG in the hole!! You do NOT have to have that damn L shapped OEM pin.
I have done numerous shifter alignments. NO you do not need the pin to do it if you fully understand what the alignment does and why its important.
Its your first time doing the shifter alignment. Use the pin and see what its all about.
BC
thanks! Just did the alignment and although it helped a little, it's still hard to move the shifter left and up to find 1st. Like there could be more room to move. I wonder if I don't use the alignment pin and try it without, I would get more room moving left.
Is the shift shaft BINDING inside the bushings in the box??? You can add a little synthetic grease to the shaft and bushing and see if that helps.
The lower Box has bushings that can and do wear out. Chech for binding and or excessive play when you mobe the shaft bu hand and also try to move the shift handle in all directions.