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My harmonic damper is wobbling like most of yours are. If I am going to go through all the hassle of changing it I want to go with a 25% underdrive. Has anybody used the Summit Racing brand or should I go with something else. What are the pro's and con's of going underdrive. I have read several threads and I found out the oem crank isn't keyed or pinned. Is it really necessary to do this? or is just pressing the new one on the same way the original came off okay?
Also, my car has 80K on it. Should the timing chain or oil pump be replaced as well as a little bit of insurance. Everything is working absolutely fine, just not sure what type of shape it would be in with these miles.
Last edited by chrisbenoit; Jul 1, 2009 at 04:08 PM.
I have no experience with Summit's but my ASP underdrive pulley was a nightmare. Balancer was changed out (again) for a Powerbond - stock config. For only a 7 to 9 HP gain with an underdrive, I think it's a waste of money and more of a Mustang mode myself.
If your engine is stock, there is no real need to pin the crank but each his own.
I purchased and installed a Powerbond 25% under drive on my 02 Z. Its now heavily modified and I pinned mine for piece of mind. (Powerbond has a machined key way for a pin) I also used an ARP damper bolt. Much better bolt. Worth the $25 IT COST!!
I have ZERO issues with my Powerbond damper or installing it.
If it were me, I would change the timing chain and oil pump. Melling makes a very nice replacement pump! LS2 timing chain is a much more dependable piece. Your old chain will have LOTs of slop in it!
If you have a HP crave,,,once you pull the timing chain cover,,,,your a few steps from a very easy cam install!
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Jul 5, 2009 at 09:52 AM.
Small point, but important: Make sure you use a suitable tool to draw the damper back onto the crank. Dont use the factory length bolt: its to short at first, and will probably pull the threads out of the crank. Due to the lack of a key, Chevy made these things fit pretty snug. I've read posts here about people ruining the threads or breaking hardened studs inside the crank snout...way too much drama for such a simple job!
I ve done so much LS1,6 LS2 work that I decided to fix that very issue. I used my old stock bolt. I sawed off the head and welded that metric shank to some SAE all thread that I picked up for little or nothing.
Pictures of my home made Damper Installation Tool:
I found that holding the damper from turning can be a pain so, I fixed that too!! I purchased a nice big strap wrench! With my strap wrench and a 3' breaker bar, I can remove and install any damper all by my self in no time flat with out any issues.
Of course there was a time when I didnt have that strap wrench and needed to get the old damaged damper loose to remove it. Its amazing what you can fine to get the job done!!!
I went the DIY route as well. I'm not a professional engine builder, so I hate blowing money on stuff like this! I just tapped the end of an old damper bolt and added a 1/2-13 extension.
Haha...I like the pipe wrench, Bill! I've done this only twice, and both times the oil pan was off. I just slipped a square bar of aluminum between the crank and block, locking er up good. I tried putting it in gear with the parking brake on, but there was so much "flex" in everything, I couldnt get any torque on it!
I'm going to try to make some more damper install tools using old bolts.
I have quite a few pieces of all thread left. If someone sends me some used Damper bolts, I'll fab some new ones up so they can be shipped around for damper installation.
It will be a real early PAY IT FORWARD Christmas Present.
I'm going to try to make some more damper install tools using old bolts.
I have quite a few pieces of all thread left. If someone sends me some used Damper bolts, I'll fab some new ones up so they can be shipped around for damper installation.
It will be a real early PAY IT FORWARD Christmas Present.
Good on you, Bill. Could save people a lot of grief and money. I wonder what an "official" install tool actually looks like, and what they price out at...
In this photo of yours I wonder if Powerbond balances their assembles as they are. I know it is a small amount but it would seem to me it would be best if they placed the opening of the "C" clip 180 Deg's out from where the key way slot is. Maybe that's getting to fussy?? Looking a little closer, maybe the "C" clips are balanced with the added mass at the end of the opening?
hands down Bill you have some of the most informative stuff on here... And you always remember to snap pics... I do something and about 15 mins later think "man i should have taken a pic incase some one else would need to know that" TOO LATE!!!
When torquing the damper there is also a great tool you can use to prevent it from turning on you - we removed the starter and installed a mechanics flywheel clamp.