Tie rod ends going bad on one side
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Tie rod ends going bad on one side
My mechanic is giving my 2000 C5 the once over and found my tie rod ends on the left side of the car (front and back) are bad but that the right side are fine. Anyone ever have this happen and why would one side go bad? Also, my mechanic couldn't find the rear tie rod that didn't cost an arm and a leg, what's the best place to order one short of the dealership?
Thanks
Thanks
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
thanks
#5
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St. Jude Donor '08
Contact Gene Culley www,gmpartshouse.com. He will have the best GM price PERIOD! If your AutoZone or Advance doesnt have them (They should) Gene will
If there bad,,,just replace them. If it were me,,,I would do all four.
Bill
If there bad,,,just replace them. If it were me,,,I would do all four.
Bill
#9
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St. Jude Donor '08
#10
Burning Brakes
When I lowered my car, I noticed it would sometimes dart to one side or the other when I went over bumps with one wheel and not the other. There was one place in particular on my way home from work that would always send the car towards the center median. It never did that before i slammed it.
When you lower a car, the outer tie rod ends move up in relation to the rack (actually, they stay put and the rack drops with the car), resulting in tie rods that aren't horizontal anymore. The further out of horizontal they are, the more in-out motion the ends experience as they arc over bumps. in-out tie rod end motions is what steers the car.
Bump steer kits allow you to LOWER the rod ends and re-establish the proper geometry. You can't do this with an oem joint because they lock into position with a taper.
Pros:
-Precision spherical rod ends.
-no more wandering around on rough roads
Cons:
-Precision spherical rod ends (you gotta keep em clean and protected, or they will die.
-to do it properly, you need to remove the spring and cycle the suspension and actually measure the resulting toe changes. Adjust and measure again until you get it to a minimum.
Price: I paid about $120 for both sides. I installed them myself. Labour might make this into a con as well
I can post a few pics, if you like...
#11
Burning Brakes
I've noticed mine does too. I checked my tierods tonight (have the rear torn apart for a new differential, girdle and tranny mount) and the left side has some slack). I was planning on a new set of bushings, springs, struts, shocks, hubs, axles, brake hoses, new rack and all the balljoints and tierods considering the car has 185k on it. I wonder if they sell these for the rear too...?
#12
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St. Jude Donor '08
Bill,
When I lowered my car, I noticed it would sometimes dart to one side or the other when I went over bumps with one wheel and not the other. There was one place in particular on my way home from work that would always send the car towards the center median. It never did that before i slammed it.
When you lower a car, the outer tie rod ends move up in relation to the rack (actually, they stay put and the rack drops with the car), resulting in tie rods that aren't horizontal anymore. The further out of horizontal they are, the more in-out motion the ends experience as they arc over bumps. in-out tie rod end motions is what steers the car.
Bump steer kits allow you to LOWER the rod ends and re-establish the proper geometry. You can't do this with an oem joint because they lock into position with a taper.
Pros:
-Precision spherical rod ends.
-no more wandering around on rough roads
Cons:
-Precision spherical rod ends (you gotta keep em clean and protected, or they will die.
-to do it properly, you need to remove the spring and cycle the suspension and actually measure the resulting toe changes. Adjust and measure again until you get it to a minimum.
Price: I paid about $120 for both sides. I installed them myself. Labour might make this into a con as well
I can post a few pics, if you like...
When I lowered my car, I noticed it would sometimes dart to one side or the other when I went over bumps with one wheel and not the other. There was one place in particular on my way home from work that would always send the car towards the center median. It never did that before i slammed it.
When you lower a car, the outer tie rod ends move up in relation to the rack (actually, they stay put and the rack drops with the car), resulting in tie rods that aren't horizontal anymore. The further out of horizontal they are, the more in-out motion the ends experience as they arc over bumps. in-out tie rod end motions is what steers the car.
Bump steer kits allow you to LOWER the rod ends and re-establish the proper geometry. You can't do this with an oem joint because they lock into position with a taper.
Pros:
-Precision spherical rod ends.
-no more wandering around on rough roads
Cons:
-Precision spherical rod ends (you gotta keep em clean and protected, or they will die.
-to do it properly, you need to remove the spring and cycle the suspension and actually measure the resulting toe changes. Adjust and measure again until you get it to a minimum.
Price: I paid about $120 for both sides. I installed them myself. Labour might make this into a con as well
I can post a few pics, if you like...
They say you learn something new everyday,,,,,well damn it, that was my new information for the day.
Yea, for my benifit and maybe someone else that doesnt know what they are, post a pic or two.
Thanks for all the great info!!
BC
#13
Burning Brakes
Here are some pics of what it looks like, as well as the measuring apparatus I used to check the toe changes. I believe that 1/8 spacers is what I ended up using. The actual curves depend on the interplay between the control arm arcs and the tie rod arcs. If all arcs are the same, the toe doesnt change. Its hard to know where to position the rod end without actually doing some trial and error. In my crazy head, its worth it!
P.s. That vertical line in the chart is the resting position of the suspension. From the factory, it would probably be close to the middle. The more you lower, the further to the left it moves. I theoretically only have 1.5 inches bump travel left, and 4.5 inches of droop. no wonder the ride sucks!
P.s. That vertical line in the chart is the resting position of the suspension. From the factory, it would probably be close to the middle. The more you lower, the further to the left it moves. I theoretically only have 1.5 inches bump travel left, and 4.5 inches of droop. no wonder the ride sucks!
#14
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St. Jude Donor '08
Very well done! Now I understand!
Thanks
BC
Thanks
BC
#15
Race Director
Member Since: Dec 2002
Location: Baltimore suburbs Maryland
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I have the Baer bump steer kit and my car is mildy lowered. I may go back to the OEM tie rods. My car is daily driven, even in the snow and it's too much of a pain to attempt to clean those exposed heim joints. Just like the exposed heim joints of my Hotchkiss sway bars, they started getting noisy. I'm getting some clunking in my suspension and I think they are the cause What kit do you have? I see yours has the rubber boots for the joints.
And also- most alignment shops don't even know how to *properly* set the bump steer kit. I see you're tool that you have, and wish I had something similar. Then again from the pictures of your car, looks like it's never driven in the rain!!
And also- most alignment shops don't even know how to *properly* set the bump steer kit. I see you're tool that you have, and wish I had something similar. Then again from the pictures of your car, looks like it's never driven in the rain!!
#16
Burning Brakes
I have the Baer bump steer kit and my car is mildy lowered. I may go back to the OEM tie rods. My car is daily driven, even in the snow and it's too much of a pain to attempt to clean those exposed heim joints. Just like the exposed heim joints of my Hotchkiss sway bars, they started getting noisy. I'm getting some clunking in my suspension and I think they are the cause What kit do you have? I see yours has the rubber boots for the joints.
And also- most alignment shops don't even know how to *properly* set the bump steer kit. I see you're tool that you have, and wish I had something similar. Then again from the pictures of your car, looks like it's never driven in the rain!!
And also- most alignment shops don't even know how to *properly* set the bump steer kit. I see you're tool that you have, and wish I had something similar. Then again from the pictures of your car, looks like it's never driven in the rain!!
#18
Burning Brakes
The site is :
http://www.sealsit.com/rodendboots.asp
I used the RERS 3 boots, and they fit like a glove.
I made that tool myself at work, but I'm sure Summit Racing sells something inexpensive that will do the job just as well.
http://www.sealsit.com/rodendboots.asp
I used the RERS 3 boots, and they fit like a glove.
I made that tool myself at work, but I'm sure Summit Racing sells something inexpensive that will do the job just as well.