List of c5 repair post that everyone should have!
#62
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Thanks for gathering all those links together.
#63
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I don't have an E brake post in the mix but,,, I recommend that you do two things:
1. Remove the passengers seat. Pull down the carpet on the tunnel On the side of the E break mechanism, there are some gears and springs and ratchets. They are suppose to take up and keep the slack out of the cable. The grease can get old and dry and prevent the mechanism form working correctly. Clean off all the old grease and re-lube.
2. Remove one rear brake drum at a time. When you remove it, do not just pull it off. Rotate the drum left and right and work the drum off. Do not apply too much force on the drum in the outward direction. There is a W shaped spring inside the shoes that is connected to the E brake backing plate that will pop out and it is a PITA to get back in.
Once you get the drum/rotor off, inspect the shoes. make sure that there is ample brake pad remaining. There is,, there is an adjustment cam between the shoes. If the inside drum has a lip on it, use a file and remove it so that it fits back on the shoes easily. The lip on the drum can prevent the drum going back on the shoes with out first collapsing the shoes and that will cause excessive E brake handle movement on engagement.
Adjust the shoes so that they allow the drum to slide back on with a slight drag.
You should have a nice tight E brake handle with a 3-4 click grap and no car movement.
Please let us know how you make out with the adjustment and the results..
Bill
1. Remove the passengers seat. Pull down the carpet on the tunnel On the side of the E break mechanism, there are some gears and springs and ratchets. They are suppose to take up and keep the slack out of the cable. The grease can get old and dry and prevent the mechanism form working correctly. Clean off all the old grease and re-lube.
2. Remove one rear brake drum at a time. When you remove it, do not just pull it off. Rotate the drum left and right and work the drum off. Do not apply too much force on the drum in the outward direction. There is a W shaped spring inside the shoes that is connected to the E brake backing plate that will pop out and it is a PITA to get back in.
Once you get the drum/rotor off, inspect the shoes. make sure that there is ample brake pad remaining. There is,, there is an adjustment cam between the shoes. If the inside drum has a lip on it, use a file and remove it so that it fits back on the shoes easily. The lip on the drum can prevent the drum going back on the shoes with out first collapsing the shoes and that will cause excessive E brake handle movement on engagement.
Adjust the shoes so that they allow the drum to slide back on with a slight drag.
You should have a nice tight E brake handle with a 3-4 click grap and no car movement.
Please let us know how you make out with the adjustment and the results..
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; 01-30-2013 at 05:20 PM.
#64
Melting Slicks
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Location: Easley/Anderson South Carolina
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I don't have an E brake post in the mix but,,, I recommend that you do two things:
1. Remove the passengers seat. Pull down the carpet on the tunnel On the side of the E break mechanism, there are some gears and springs and ratchets. They are suppose to take up and keep the slack out of the cable. The grease can get old and dry and prevent the mechanism form working correctly. Clean off all the old grease and re-lube.
2. Remove one rear brake drum at a time. When you remove it, do not just pull it off. Rotate the drum left and right and work the drum off. Do not apply too much force on the drum in the outward direction. There is a W shaped spring inside the shoes that is connected to the E brake backing plate that will pop out and it is a PITA to get back in.
Once you get the drum/rotor off, inspect the shoes. make sure that there is ample brake pad remaining. There is,, there is an adjustment cam between the shoes. If the inside drum has a lip on it, use a file and remove it so that it fits back on the shoes easily. The lip on the drum can prevent the drum going back on the shoes with out first collapsing the shoes and that will cause excessive E brake handle movement on engagement.
BC
Adjust the shoes so that they allow the drum to slide back on with a slight drag.
You should have a nice tight E brake handle with a 3-4 click grap and no car movement.
Please let us know how you make out with the adjustment and the results..
Bill
1. Remove the passengers seat. Pull down the carpet on the tunnel On the side of the E break mechanism, there are some gears and springs and ratchets. They are suppose to take up and keep the slack out of the cable. The grease can get old and dry and prevent the mechanism form working correctly. Clean off all the old grease and re-lube.
2. Remove one rear brake drum at a time. When you remove it, do not just pull it off. Rotate the drum left and right and work the drum off. Do not apply too much force on the drum in the outward direction. There is a W shaped spring inside the shoes that is connected to the E brake backing plate that will pop out and it is a PITA to get back in.
Once you get the drum/rotor off, inspect the shoes. make sure that there is ample brake pad remaining. There is,, there is an adjustment cam between the shoes. If the inside drum has a lip on it, use a file and remove it so that it fits back on the shoes easily. The lip on the drum can prevent the drum going back on the shoes with out first collapsing the shoes and that will cause excessive E brake handle movement on engagement.
BC
Adjust the shoes so that they allow the drum to slide back on with a slight drag.
You should have a nice tight E brake handle with a 3-4 click grap and no car movement.
Please let us know how you make out with the adjustment and the results..
Bill
#66
C5 electrical problems at insterment panel
Not sure where to post this but here goes,this is what happen on my 02 the insterment panel went crazy gauges went all the way to max or minimum,every warning that was possible was showing ,a/c quit,radio quit,,thought it was the body control module at first,was not sure about how to trouble shoot it with out tech 2 scanner did this interment for a while ,could still drive car,saw where others had posted about where the wires in the Doors shorted out where it went from the rubber accordion into the to the body ,finally the driver door window quit working that was when I found the problem the driver( control module )unplugged it an all my problems went away ;taped into the widow motor wired to get my window up (there are 2 wires just hook to jumper cables from battery ,switch wires for up and down)took,me a week but I found it 😫Hope this helps someone,if you have any questions let me know ,🔧🔩🛠
#68
1/4 mile/AutoX
Bill I would PAY for the list in PDF form !!!! LOL !!!!!!!!
#70
Le Mans Master
Pro Mechanic
Thank you!
#71
Drifting
- C5 Bakersfield, How to fix a door lock or window problem : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...w-problem.html