I posted this in C5 GENERAL, because of the amount of traffic over there, but I need some tech support...

Well, this morning I ordered the weak link in my coolant system (something I found during my water pump/hose/thermostat install last weekend), the coolant reservoir. It cost me about $65 bucks shipped.

Well, today I go to the DMV and get the car legal to drive on the street and decided to drive to work this afternoon, via the pass and ID office. Well, I notice the coolant temp rising as I was cruising H-1, to the point that the car goes into "reduce power mode" and I manage to get to the pass and ID office at the Pearl Harbor main gate. I open the hood and sure enough the weak link on the reservoir had snapped off.

I seriously did not want to leave the car on the H-1, so I had to drive it about a mile like that. Did I screw up?

Well, I call USAA and had them call a tow for me. I will probably be at sea when the new part shows up, but I have concerns about the motor running like that. Any comments? At least something constructive, I know I am stoopid.

Micah

 

What exactly did you find wrong with the coolant resevoir that made you want to replace it? Was it leaking? Cracked?

 

There was a hairline crack, I took some high temp sealant to it, to keep it at bay. This is the first time I have driven it since finding it and I made it about three and a half miles into my five mile trek.

I checked the oil and all seems well, not coolant smell, milky look or anything that leads me to believe that I have a blown head gasket.

This is frustrating. When it happened I had little to no options on pulling over immediately, which is why I drove it slowly to a safe location about a mile to a mile and half down the road in reduced power mode.

 

I suppose time will tell. The cooling system is under pressure, so just applying sealant to the outside of the tank was a bandaid...nothing that would ever hold pressure.

Good luck and thanks for your service

 

what's done is done but I bet you'll find you did no damage

 

The C5 has an Engine OVER HEAT PCM Operating Mode thats suppose to protect the engine in EMERGENCY cases like the one you describe. It kills specific cylinders in sequence to allow them to pump cooler air thru the cylinder to protect them.

HOWEVER,,,I would NOT want to be the one to test it out to see just how good it works (or doesnt) IF, the engine runs normaly when you repair the coolant tank issue, I would immediately change the OIL and add the correct DEXCOOL coolant/water % solution. Then monitor the coolant tank for holding a constant level and oil for any coolant contamination for a few days or a week.

In my opinin, you have a good chance of being good to go but,,,you wont know for sure until you put rubber to the road!

 

I agree with Bill (but then it's difficult to find a situation in which to disagree with him)

Your engine oil is toast and MUST be replaced before running the engine for any length of time. Hopefully you had the proper (synthetic) oil in the crankcase.


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Judging from your description Micah, I'd have to agree with the others here. Chances are good that you're gold.

 

reduced power mode is designed to protect the engine if it were to overheat. what happens if the heat continues to rise even in reduced power mode? does it eventually reach a point where the PCM will shutdown the engine to prevent permanent damage?

 

Thanks guys.

I am going to change the oil and also pressure test the cooling system once I get the part replaced. I called a friend of mine, his dad and him own and repair corvettes and have been for over 30 years and they told me pretty much the same thing. I feel better about the entire situation, but I will feel even better if things turn out good-to-go.

The other question I have is...should I pull the push rods and check them out?

Micah

 

No reason to. You were not involved in any high rpm activities during any of this, right? Maybe you're starting to see boogey men where there aren't any.

Changing oil, and getting a cooling system pressure test to be on the safe side.......both sound very reasonable and like good ideas though.

Btw, during the pressure check there is another simple cooling system check that can be (and wouldn't hurt) performed at the same time. Just ask the tech at the shop to also do the exhaust gas check too. It's easy to do. They will screw the test fixture onto your cooling reservoir's cap threads. It is a tubular device (a vertical plastic tube about 1 1/2" to 2" in diameter and approx 6" tall) that gets partially filled with a special reagent liquid that reacts with exhaust gas by changing color. The engine gets started and while idling, the tech will watch for any color change to the liquid, indicating the presence of exhaust gas in the liquid. The engine's cylinder pressure is MUCH higher than any cooling system pressure, so any exhaust gas forced into into the system usually indicates a blown/partially blown head gasket. It's a simple, easy, inexpensive test and very effective.

HTH

 

Thanks, but I was going to do the coolant system check myself and nothing is really "inexpensive" in Hawaii.

I appreciate the recommendation and comment...and "no" I was driving the car normally, no high RPM here.

Micah

 

Hey you submarine dudes make all the bux right? No problems then.

 

I am married, with a kid and another on the way and a wife that spends, spends, spends.