TPS Connector Repair
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Ga
TPS Connector Repair
I need to replace my TPS connector. I believe it's GM ACDELCO part # 12167121. Has anyone ever done this? What is the best method for splicing the wires? Any help on the how to process would be great.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: South al
So ur gonna replace ur tps ,doesn't it have a plug & play on the back of it so u don't have to splice wires it plugs right into the main harness,simple & easy,I am running Ls2 intk & tb but if I remember correctly its the same on the ls1 , I maybe wrong ,someone else may chime in 
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Whats wrong with the one that there now?
The pins inside the connector can be extracted and soldered on to the wires. You can get new pins from the Stealership. If you decide to "SPLICE" on a new pig tail, recommend that you slip on some heat shrink and solder the wires. Once there soldered, shrink the heat shrink on the joint. The TPS deals in very small voltages and the connection MUST be perfect.
The pins inside the connector can be extracted and soldered on to the wires. You can get new pins from the Stealership. If you decide to "SPLICE" on a new pig tail, recommend that you slip on some heat shrink and solder the wires. Once there soldered, shrink the heat shrink on the joint. The TPS deals in very small voltages and the connection MUST be perfect.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Ga
My TPS housing was broken when we did my CAM install. I also noticed that wires running into the 6 pin female connector are stretched damaged. With the car running, I touched the wires and it went into Reduced Engine Power Mode. My tunner also stated that the TB was real slow to respond.
So ur gonna replace ur tps ,doesn't it have a plug & play on the back of it so u don't have to splice wires it plugs right into the main harness,simple & easy,I am running Ls2 intk & tb but if I remember correctly its the same on the ls1 , I maybe wrong ,someone else may chime in
Team Owner
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
My TPS housing was broken when we did my CAM install. I also noticed that wires running into the 6 pin female connector are stretched damaged. With the car running, I touched the wires and it went into Reduced Engine Power Mode. My tunner also stated that the TB was real slow to respond.
Btw, when you finish with the above, wrap it using self-vulcanizing electrical tape. It's 10x better than standard electrical tape and you can buy it lots of places. Most auto parts stores carry it. No sticky mess either since it does not use adhesive to stick to itself. The other alternative would be to use some plastic wire loom. Yours may already have that though. Best would be to use both.
HTH
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2009
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What Bill and LoneStarFRC said. The TPS circuit is very sensitive to resistance and any variance between the two signals. When a variance is detected, the PCM will slam shut your throttleblade until you reset the code.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Ga
Thanks guys. I will use the method you all described above. I will also do a post when I am done with the fix. You guys make this forum a valuable place with all your knowledge and feedback.
Thanks for all the great advice!
David
Thanks for all the great advice!
David
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,510
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From: Ga
Went with your advice guys. Completed the repair on Friday and all is well. Took the car to WOT and no codes, no problems at all. Brought it back to the tuner where he worked his magic and now Frankenstein is alive and kick'in!
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
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From: Reading PA
Actually, if you get a real GM connector, you can really cut, strip and crimp. The GM connectors come with shrink wrap connectors. So you crimp, then heat shrink. Also, there is a ball of solder in the middle of the connector. When you heat shrink you heat up the solder in the middle and it melts the solder and the connections together and of course the heat shrink on the ends seals everything.
Trust me, I just did a supercharger project on my daily driver, which required some new connectors, etc, and the heat shrink connectors with solder work perfectly. You just have to heat them up properly.
Trust me, I just did a supercharger project on my daily driver, which required some new connectors, etc, and the heat shrink connectors with solder work perfectly. You just have to heat them up properly.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,510
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From: Ga
Hey Gene:
You are correct, I did get a GM connector and the connectors you are speaking of came in the package. Anyway, you guys have all been very helpful!!
You are correct, I did get a GM connector and the connectors you are speaking of came in the package. Anyway, you guys have all been very helpful!!
Actually, if you get a real GM connector, you can really cut, strip and crimp. The GM connectors come with shrink wrap connectors. So you crimp, then heat shrink. Also, there is a ball of solder in the middle of the connector. When you heat shrink you heat up the solder in the middle and it melts the solder and the connections together and of course the heat shrink on the ends seals everything.
Trust me, I just did a supercharger project on my daily driver, which required some new connectors, etc, and the heat shrink connectors with solder work perfectly. You just have to heat them up properly.
Trust me, I just did a supercharger project on my daily driver, which required some new connectors, etc, and the heat shrink connectors with solder work perfectly. You just have to heat them up properly.
