My 97 vet has a odd noise coming from the rear drivers wheel well. It sounded like something was loose so I took off all the interior panels and carpet and speaker only to find it is coming from the wheel well. I am having trouble figuring out what it is. I took the wheel off last night and took a look at everything which was tight and torqued up. I could not recreate the noise.

The noise comes from the drivers side definately and the best way to describe it is if you have ever had a lawn mower (older mower) that had the fuel level guage that consisted of a plastic quark on a spiral piece of metal so as it went up it turned the spiral metal and make the guage turn. Well the noise of that type guage when the tank was half full and your going over bumps so it is going up and down clanking around, thats the noise.

It occurs at all speeds, however is barely audible under 20 mph. From 20 mph on it becomes louder/faster as fast as I have gone (since the noise started, not sure what it sounds like at 150). At 55 it is annoying. As I said, from the wheel well, and to the driver, it sounds like it is right behind their head.

I have also tried the following with the corresponding results.
1. At speed, pushed in clutch to coast - noise remains
2. At speed, accelerated - noise remains
3. At speed, decelerated - noise remains
4. At speed, shut down the car and coast out of gear - noise remains

The only break in noise I have found is in decent cornering (to the right) the noise will disappear occasionally. Not sure if that help.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I did a lot of forum searching and am guessing it is a wheel bearing though my noise doesn't match other descriptions.

Thanks,

 

I just took it out over lunch and sort of decided it makes the most noise when coasting, I don't hear it as much during acceleration. Though the engine is makeing more noise then .

Really odd, it seems like its speed based so it has to be on the rotational mass. This is driving me nuts. I think I am going to put it up on jacks, remove the wheels, and run the engine up to 20 or so to see if I can hear it or locate it.

BTW, I played with the ebrake a bit while coasting with the noise occuring to see if the noise changed at all, no beans.

 

Ok, I confirmed it is in rotational mass though I was thinking that anyways. I put it up on jack stands, removed the rear tires and let it idle in 2nd which was enough to hear the noise at the drivers side outside so I'm not crazy. Passenger side is nice and quiet. So, has to be bearing, brake issue, or nuckle right? While its off, I think I will try to do the popping rear axle fix like this thread. Maybe it will save me teh $150 bearing.

 

Yeah, fromunder, it sounds like it is coming from near the diff, like the upper nuckle. Has anyone had an issue like that? Or would the diff make that much noise? On one side? Could the bearing be reasonating up the axle?

 

Check your differential's fluid level, the condition of the CV joints and wheel bearings.

 

The 97 and 98's are notorious for noisy fuel pumps. They are located near the area you describe your noise emanating from. It is more of a buzzing sound. Not sure from your description what you are hearing.

 

I was thinking that after some searching too, so I took it to speed and shut the engine off coasting, out of gear, and the noise continued. I'm going to change the rear diff fluid and lube the splines to see if that helps.

If not I will probably let the bowtie dealer tell me if its the bearing or CV or ...

Thanks,

 

Since you can do your own repair work I would avoid the dealer like the plague. If they will give you a diagnosis at NO charge, then fine let them take a stab at it.

At the insane prices dealers charge for repairs, it pays to do your own work if you have the ability.

Think of it in these terms – You can replace LOTS of parts yourself and still be money ahead of dealer repair rates.

The wheel bearing cost is $150.00 (buy Timken brand – Timken invented the tapered roller bearing used in vehicles for a hundred years). What do you think the dealer will charge for the same repair?

You could replace the bearing, the axle shaft assembly, and the rear axle seal combined for what the dealer will charge for just ONE of the aforementioned repairs.

If you replace the bearing assembly and that is not the problem then you can reinstall the old bearing along with a new axle shaft and end up with a new spare bearing on hand that you can use in the future or sell.

Do it yourself.


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Yeah, maybe I will just skip them. I was thinking they could tell me if its the axle assembly, rear end, or bearing and I would do it myself for the price reason. $150 for a bearing or pay the dealer $500 + for the same thing. Plus, they are easy to access and no packing grease even.

Having an extra set wouldn't hurt anything. Though, where do you locate a axle assembly? Thats a part I haven't come accross yet.

 

I have a 98 with a similar noise except mine seems to be coming from the right side. If I make a quick lane change to the right the noise goes away. If I'm going straight or turning to the left noise remains. Did you isolate anything on your car yet?

 

Inspect your bearing hubs..

 

I replaced my hub/bearing on the side making the noise (it was throwing ABS codes anyways so no big loss) and the noise is still there. I put it up on jacks to listen for the noise and mine appears to be coming from the diff area or uper cv joint. Again, it makes the noise in a straight line mostly when coasting so am starting to think maybe it is the bearing on the side of the diff or low diff fluid. So, this weekend I am putting royal purple in the diff, we will see if that helps. Otherwise I am going to ask the stealership to take a guess at it, if the diff needs to be rebuilt/swapped, I think I will wait until winter or someone has one for sale on here.

Oh and I lubed my splines too, wasn't that.
Good luck, let me know if you figure it out.

 

If it were the family sedan, I'd say it's your wife in the back seat!

 

Check the sway bar links.

 

The end links or where it bolts to the frame? What should I look for?

 

The links have a ball socket at each end. These sockets can develop slop in them and can cause noise. If you grab the link check for up and down movement. There shouldn't be any between the lower control arm and the swap bar attachment points.