2001 convertable starts fine, idles all day long, rolls 3 feet and dies. Starts right back up. No codes, no messages. I have reprogrammed the BCM, ECM and performed VTS relearn. Please help. Odometer displays 2300 miles.

 

have you tried your spare key?

 

No I have not...but I will.

 

Your having a Vehicle Anti Theft (VATs) issue. It deals with the resistor chip in the key. Have you ever seen a message on the DIC that says "REMOVE KEY FOR 10 SECONDS" ????

The resistance in the key needs to match the BCM resistor code. If the two dont match, it will cause the PCM to initiate FUEL CUT OFF at any detected vehicle speed over 2 MPH.

Like LUCKY stated, try your spare key or clean your key resistor chip contacts. There’s a silver plating on the contacts. Make sure there not tarnished. Alcohol works good for dirt. A little silver polish is needed if there tarnished and then clean it with alcohol.

There’s a small metal can on the front of your ignition switch. That’s the KEY Resistor Chip Sensor. The contacts in that sensor can also be dirty and or damaged.

If you remove the dash bezels and find the two wire harness off that sensor on the end of the ignition switch, you can disconnect that sensor, insert the key into the ignition switch and read the wires off that sensor and see if you get the same resistance reading as the resistor chip in the key. They should MATCH!

BC

 

I had the error message until I reprogrammed the BCM, ECM and preformed a VTD relearn. Now I get no messages, codes or indications there is a problem.

 

Now setting a P1630 code.

 

Bill,
Doesn’t the problem sound more like a column lock issue? If the VAT does not read the correct resistance the BCM should disable fuel and not allow the engine to crank.

 

Tried the spare key. Now getting "Service Column Lock" and "pull key and wait ten seconds" messages on the cluster.

 

Your car is a LOW miles car so,,,,it looks as it must sit for LONG periods of time. So,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,I would suspect that the battery is LOW. Charge the battery fully!! Then pull up the DTCs and clear them ALL! and then try to start it again. If it fails, read the DTCs again and post what pops up.

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.

Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

Here is very good site of DTC definitions:


http://www.gearchatter.com


Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!

 

Start reading the column lock thread on top and order a bypass.

 

Now that his indications have changed, yep

 

First thing that poped in my head wat Column Lock.

Do a quick search on that.