Hey guys, I have a C5 corvette and I dont know if any of you guys have ever had this problem before, but I will be driving my car and it will turn off on me all of a sudden. Then when I try and turn it on, it wont start for a while. Its kind of embarressing. Well anyways, I was driving it this weekend and it turned off on me, like before, but this time, it would not start. I did notice that when I would step on the brake right before I turned the key, that the panel lights would turn on. That was odd. I must had been stranded for about 2 hours til I had a buddy tow me home. right before he towed me, it still wasnt starting, or it was starting, but it wouldnt stay on for more than a about 2 seconds. Finally the next day I went to go mess with it and the first thing I did was turn the key, and to my surprise, the SOB turned on!! What the hell!!!!

Has anyone ever heard of this or had any problems like this before. If so, please please please let me know. I dont mind driving a car and it dying on me on the road, but not when Im in the vette!!

 

Check your battery to see if it has leaked on your computer (the computer is located directly below the battery).
Also, check any error codes that your car may be showing.

 

Also check the battery terminals themselves for corrosion.

 

sure sounds like a power issue. a single bad grounding point would have a more isolated effect, since you are losing all power it looks like something at the battery itself. could the battery be dead? definitely check your battery connections and the computer as suggested. there are only a few things that could cause this type of problem.

Take a look at your alternator also, might be a good idea to have it checked out.

if you are driving along and you all of a sudden lose all electrical power and the engine the car must be losing both the alternator and the battery. does anyone know if they both connect to a common ground or something?

 

As everyone has stated start by checking the battery. Also check and clean the grounds, and as a last resort pull you ignition module and clean the contacts. My C5 was doing all sort of weird things due to the ignition contacts being scorched.

Good Luck,

 

This issue comes up about once a week on the forum. As others have stated, inspection of the battery cables for corrosion and security is the first step. If everything checks out ok with the battery, the ignition switch is the next most likely culprit. In any case, pull codes and post, and use a DMM to troubleshoot the issue instead of just changing parts.

 

Thanks guys! Let me be a little more clear on this issue. The car turns off but it does not cut total power. If the computer is getting leaked on by the battery, what would the major issue be there. Would it really cause my engine to die on me? Thanks guys, you guys are fast responders and I appreciate that!!

 

Sorry, One more thing.

Why would the panel lights be turning on every time I press on the brakes while the key is not in the ignition?? It seems that when that happens, the car wont turn on. And when it doesnt happen, the car does turn on. ???? Stumped??

 

You most likely you have a chaffed cable somewhere grounding out when your moving. There are a couple of spots on the back of the engine close to the Firewall where this can occur-I'd look there for wires that look like they have been rubbing.

 

Lucky is correct.... There a LOT of checks and inspections that need to be done before a DOLLAR is spent on new parts.

The very FIRST thing that needs to be done is read and post ALL the DTCs.

If you have never done this, heres a DTC write up:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

Battery cables. Remove, inspect clean and reinstall them the correct way TORQUED to 11 ft/lbs.

The car is NEW to you. You do not have any past records on what was replaced or serviced. MORE & MORE C5 are showing issues with the ignition switch. There SIX seperate ingition switch outputs and any one of them could be BAD. The contacts get burnt and the voltage output of the switch can get degraded. I have a very detailed post on cleaning and servicing that switch and the best part,,,ITS FREE!!!!!!!!!!!!

Heres the post. Check it out:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html

Post those DTCs and any DIC messages that your getting.


BC

 

Wow Bill, Just looked at ur old thread and thats quite a write up. But I have several codes on my Vette and the ones that are new to me are:

U1160= Loss communication
B2583= left front turn signal
B2578= right front turn signal
C1236= low system support voltage
P1546= A/c low voltage
P0102= MAF

...also, can you tell me where the ignition switch outputs are. I think that would be a great place to start, seeing that my panel lights turn on when I hit the brakes.

Thanks in advance!!!

 

^^Nevermind, I feel stupid! I know where it is now.

...the ignition switch.

 

LMAO!!!!!!!!!!! You almost made me post a cone head smiley icon!!

In my write up,,,I list fuses that you can read and see the same voltages. Make sure that the ignition switch is in the RUN position during the measurements.

Bill

 

So I took out the ignition last night and needless to say, it was dirty. The exact same two that were burnt on FASTVETZ06 on his ignition, were the same ones burnt on mine. So I cleaned them off last night with a screw driver, thats all i had handy, bent the contacts a little bit, and put it back together. Tonight, I will reassemble it to the vette and pray to god it doesnt stop anymore on me.

Bill: Can you tell me what exactly was wrong with FASTVETZ06 for him to end up doing this to his car. I'd like to know if we had the same thing going on. Or if you can, just PM me. Thanks! You have been helpful this whole time.

 

If there was no hurry to get the car back together, then why use a screwdriver to scrape the contacts? Not much more trouble to use a piece of emery cloth......

 

Because it wasnt anything that was really caked on. If my hands were small enough, I could of probly used my nail to take off the charred black stuff that was on it. Its not like I scraped the heck out of it. It was all done with soft gentle scrapes. Nothing too drastic where I was scrapping the hell out of it...

 

WOW! 75+, ignition switch interactions! These problems all blur together. Recommend that you PM FASTVETZ06 and ask him.

 

Thanks bud