Not your average stuck clutch issue
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,420
Likes: 0
From: Boston MA
Not your average stuck clutch issue
Original before update:
Update:
So I mistakenly used a wire tie to hold the O2 sensor and clutch line away from the ARH I just installed (At the time I did this, it never occurred to me that the clutch line actually moves when the clutch petal is pressed). After getting ready to fire the car up with headers in and believing everything was set, I noticed that the clutch was a little heavy to push. I pushed harder, and that's when the "quick disconnect" came undone. The clutch pedal remained on the floor and I had to use my foot/hand to pull it back up.
So I removed the header, cut the wire tie, reconnect the quick disconnect, and found another way to hold the wires and cable away from the headers. Also, when the line became undone, some of the fluid in the line leaked out and air got into the air. Surprisingly I didn't have to bleed the clutch line. Instead, I refilled the clutch reservior, then repeatedly used my hand to push in then out on the clutch pedal. This took about 10 minutes to do, but overtime (pushing at the way down, then coming back) the air worked its way up to the reservior and the clutch feel became harder and firmer. After that, the clutch pedal was coming back up on its own, so I used my foot to keep pumping a while. It's good to have a 2nd person pumping or watching the reservior to see if any more air is coming out. After 10 minutes, and no more air bubbles coming up, I was set and got the car off the jacks and out the garage.
So I just got done installing ARH and steel brake lines. I check and recheck, and recheck my recheck to make sure everything looks right before starting my Z up.
Then first thing, the clutch (stock) didn't move.
I pressed a little harder then the clutch just went to the floor and stayed there. 
After being able to pull it back up, I realized the clutch line was separated and leaking some where.
It turns out that the clutch line and bell housing actually moves when pressing on the clutch.
I didn't know this at the time and I actually wire-tied the clutch line to the O2 sensor wires and others to keep them away from the headers.
I don't have pics, it looks like the other end (opposite side of how the bell housing is separated) came out. There's a black rubber boot thats partially showing out the housing and I'm really hoping that this can be pushed back in. Also, I may have to remove the header to get to this. Does anyone have any experience with this? Should I bleed the line now since some fluid has leaked out, or will the air come to the top of the reservoir?
Then first thing, the clutch (stock) didn't move.
I pressed a little harder then the clutch just went to the floor and stayed there. After being able to pull it back up, I realized the clutch line was separated and leaking some where.It turns out that the clutch line and bell housing actually moves when pressing on the clutch.
I didn't know this at the time and I actually wire-tied the clutch line to the O2 sensor wires and others to keep them away from the headers.I don't have pics, it looks like the other end (opposite side of how the bell housing is separated) came out. There's a black rubber boot thats partially showing out the housing and I'm really hoping that this can be pushed back in. Also, I may have to remove the header to get to this. Does anyone have any experience with this? Should I bleed the line now since some fluid has leaked out, or will the air come to the top of the reservoir?
So I mistakenly used a wire tie to hold the O2 sensor and clutch line away from the ARH I just installed (At the time I did this, it never occurred to me that the clutch line actually moves when the clutch petal is pressed). After getting ready to fire the car up with headers in and believing everything was set, I noticed that the clutch was a little heavy to push. I pushed harder, and that's when the "quick disconnect" came undone. The clutch pedal remained on the floor and I had to use my foot/hand to pull it back up.
So I removed the header, cut the wire tie, reconnect the quick disconnect, and found another way to hold the wires and cable away from the headers. Also, when the line became undone, some of the fluid in the line leaked out and air got into the air. Surprisingly I didn't have to bleed the clutch line. Instead, I refilled the clutch reservior, then repeatedly used my hand to push in then out on the clutch pedal. This took about 10 minutes to do, but overtime (pushing at the way down, then coming back) the air worked its way up to the reservior and the clutch feel became harder and firmer. After that, the clutch pedal was coming back up on its own, so I used my foot to keep pumping a while. It's good to have a 2nd person pumping or watching the reservior to see if any more air is coming out. After 10 minutes, and no more air bubbles coming up, I was set and got the car off the jacks and out the garage.
Last edited by knyght4; Aug 13, 2009 at 11:12 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,722
Likes: 138
From: Florida
St. Jude Donor '09
There is a lock ring style fitting which connects the braided hose sections of the clutch's hydraulic system. One length of hose comes from the master cylinder and the other from the slave cylinder. This fitting is located in a relatively tight spot near the exhaust manifold, I do not have headers so I do not know how difficult it would be to access this fitting with headers installed. If the o-ring and locking ring are intact you should be able to push the two halves that form the fitting back toghether.
Your write up is difficult to understand, but if in fact the slave cylinder portion of the hose has come out from its fitting at the slave cylider, I don't think you will be able to get it back in place with the drive-line in the car.
The only proper way to bleed the system is from the slave cylinder bleed screw. In my opinion that is the only way to get all of the air out of the hydraulic system.
Your write up is difficult to understand, but if in fact the slave cylinder portion of the hose has come out from its fitting at the slave cylider, I don't think you will be able to get it back in place with the drive-line in the car.
The only proper way to bleed the system is from the slave cylinder bleed screw. In my opinion that is the only way to get all of the air out of the hydraulic system.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,420
Likes: 0
From: Boston MA
There is a lock ring style fitting which connects the braided hose sections of the clutch's hydraulic system. One length of hose comes from the master cylinder and the other from the slave cylinder. This fitting is located in a relatively tight spot near the exhaust manifold, I do not have headers so I do not know how difficult it would be to access this fitting with headers installed. If the o-ring and locking ring are intact you should be able to push the two halves that form the fitting back toghether.
Your write up is difficult to understand, but if in fact the slave cylinder portion of the hose has come out from its fitting at the slave cylider, I don't think you will be able to get it back in place with the drive-line in the car.
The only proper way to bleed the system is from the slave cylinder bleed screw. In my opinion that is the only way to get all of the air out of the hydraulic system.
Your write up is difficult to understand, but if in fact the slave cylinder portion of the hose has come out from its fitting at the slave cylider, I don't think you will be able to get it back in place with the drive-line in the car.
The only proper way to bleed the system is from the slave cylinder bleed screw. In my opinion that is the only way to get all of the air out of the hydraulic system.
Thanks.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,420
Likes: 0
From: Boston MA
OK. So I got under the car, removed the header, and I was able to see that I had just once again separed the two lines. That wasn't a big deal and II just reconnected the line. Car is back on the ground, and started it up for the first time since the install. No other mods have been done and the car still sounds quiet while idling.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,421
Likes: 1,146
From: Dyer, IN
OK. So I got under the car, removed the header, and I was able to see that I had just once again separed the two lines. That wasn't a big deal and II just reconnected the line. Car is back on the ground, and started it up for the first time since the install. No other mods have been done and the car still sounds quiet while idling.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,420
Likes: 0
From: Boston MA
I don't know if that's the best name to call it since it wasn't quick for me at all. I'll try and update my original post.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 2
From: St. Clair Shores Mi
https://pontiworld.com.au/usgmsp/images/PW11992.jpg
was it the fitting/connection at the end of this picture?
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,420
Likes: 0
From: Boston MA
https://pontiworld.com.au/usgmsp/images/PW11992.jpg
was it the fitting/connection at the end of this picture?
