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I had a similar problem and I did the ignition switch repair. It's free and definitely couldn't hurt. Fixed my problem. Only thing to remember is to do it somewhere clean and be careful not to loose the parts if they fall out.
Well worth it! No mass electrical problems since.
Did a similar repair on my fuel level sender. It fixed that too.
Your gonna love this. The dealer told me I'm out of gas. I guess when the gauge says 1/4 of a tank and no low indicator light is on your out. I'm thinking bs. Any thoughts?
Your gonna love this. The dealer told me I'm out of gas. I guess when the gauge says 1/4 of a tank and no low indicator light is on your out. I'm thinking bs. Any thoughts?
It's not like C5's don't have a history of fuel indication issues. So what are they going to do to correct the indication issue?
If the check engine light was flashing at him, thats a misfire. That can be a number of things, i.e., loose fuel injector cap, loose spark plug wire, Bad plugs. I would start with that. Then maybe the ignition switch. But when the engine light flashes, its usually a misfire...
"Sleep on that data and when you go to the repair shop (who ever it is) and they give you some half baked repair plan,,,decide for your self if you should walk! Hell,,see if the car will start and run. It might. This is an easy repair if you follow the instructions in the post."
Hope you come out on the easy side. GOOD LUCK!
Pay the nice man and drag your car out! If they checked for fuel pressure, there probably WASNT ANY cause the fuel pump wasnt running! How can NO FUEL cause electrical faults and NO COMMS Issues???/
I HATE STEALERSHIPS!!!!! Especially incompenant ones.
Bill has found a lot of failing ignition switches lately. I would listen to him if I was you. Not sure what's going on with them or if GM just used ones with insufficient contact space to hold up over the long run with these cars. Something isn't right that so many have failed.
Contact space is plenty adequate for the amount of current passing through the switch IMHO. What I found when I took mine out was the contact plates have incredibly light spring pressure which I think was allowing arcing and hence the carbonization (mine was carbonized the EXACT same was as the one in Bill's writeup). I used a wire brush on my dremel and some 2000 grit sandpaper to get them sparkly, smeared a light coat of silicone grease on them, and then bent the contact arms down to about a 30° angle before reinstalling.
Now the key is significantly harder to turn and is more "clicky", but I'm ok with that. If I had to guess, I'd say that little ergonomic fact is the reason there was so little spring tension in those arms from the factory in the first place.
Your gonna love this. The dealer told me I'm out of gas. I guess when the gauge says 1/4 of a tank and no low indicator light is on your out. I'm thinking bs. Any thoughts?
It does happen. I even recall someone "running out of fuel" with 1/4ish tank simply because he was stopped on a steep incline.
Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
How can NO FUEL cause electrical faults and NO COMMS Issues???/
Originally Posted by dgrant3830
I agree with Bill totally on this. No comms sure has nothing to do with being out of gas.
I am not trying to call anyone out here, but I have seen this with other cars. Sometimes when a car is not shutdown gracefully via the ignition but rather stalled some cars have a tendency to "burp" codes.
Is everyone ready for this?? It turns out my fuel pump burned out. It was putting out only 12 PSI and it should have been around 55-60. Keep in mind this is the tech sheet I was reading.
Should I still be worried about the ignition? Also, I'm really worried this problem is going to happen again. The dealer installed a fuel pump a month ago and it burned out already. I'm worried that it may not have been installed correctly. Do you think I just had a faulty pump? The new one wines just as loud as the other ones did.
Almost forgot. When I got it home today I looked in my right front tire to discover a screw sitting nicelyin my tread. I never should have said I was going to sell the vett. It heard me and is paying me back.
Last edited by Smooth9883; Aug 14, 2009 at 09:42 PM.
Reason: Update
Never talk back to your car...they are listening! lol. I would think its unusual for a pump to burn out like that. In fact, I don't think I've ever heard of a single case like that till now. If you are working normally again, cool.
Never talk back to your car...they are listening! lol. I would think its unusual for a pump to burn out like that. In fact, I don't think I've ever heard of a single case like that till now. If you are working normally again, cool.
Thats good to hear. I got a little upset when the service tech told me that I ran the car with to little gas in it. He said I burned out the pump because it didn't have enough gas. I told him I had an eigth of a tank and my reserve light had yet to come on. He said it was still to little gas and tried to blame the issue on me.
Either way the car seems to be runnning great now. I need to stop at the F/S section and buy a mod so she will forgive me for talking about selling her.
If,,,,,,,,,,,,,your not supplying the correct voltage to the pump, it will draw more current to try to work correctly. Take a voltage reading on that pump supply circuit and it should be the same voltage as the battery. If its lower, the ignition switch is an issue. The power for the pump comes fro the IGNITION SWITCH!!
If,,,,,,,,,,,,,your not supplying the correct voltage to the pump, it will draw more current to try to work correctly. Take a voltage reading on that pump supply circuit and it should be the same voltage as the battery. If its lower, the ignition switch is an issue. The power for the pump comes fro the IGNITION SWITCH!!
Ah this grasshopper sees now! So here is the hard part. How exactly do I find the proper contacts to test and is there a procedure for this? Ex: Circuit 12A located fusbox 5 red wire to blue and ignition on. I'm not mechanically dense but I do not know my way around the vetts electronics, yet!
Also, thanks to everyone for the help. I know you guys know how it feels when your baby isn't feeling good.
Ah this grasshopper sees now! So here is the hard part. How exactly do I find the proper contacts to test and is there a procedure for this? Ex: Circuit 12A located fusbox 5 red wire to blue and ignition on. I'm not mechanically dense but I do not know my way around the vetts electronics, yet!
Also, thanks to everyone for the help. I know you guys know how it feels when your baby isn't feeling good.
Quite simple! Go to the UNDER HOOD FUSE CENTER and fine fuse:
#13 F/PMP 20 AMP
With the key in RUN, measuer the voltage from the fuse to ground. On top of the fuse are TWO small holes ith metal contacts. Those are TEST points.
It's in Chicago and I live in Colorado now. I can't work Miracles. Of course it should be running somewhere around 12v right? I could always connect some wires to the fuse and have the wife hold them to her tongue and if it hurts really really bad I know I'm okay. If not I probably have an ignition switch problem right?
It's in Chicago and I live in Colorado now. I can't work Miracles. Of course it should be running somewhere around 12v right? I could always connect some wires to the fuse and have the wife hold them to her tongue and if it hurts really really bad I know I'm okay. If not I probably have an ignition switch problem right?
Tell her to watch the movie Up Periscope and take notes on how the Radioman does it!! LMAO
Quite simple! Go to the UNDER HOOD FUSE CENTER and fine fuse:
#13 F/PMP 20 AMP
With the key in RUN, measuer the voltage from the fuse to ground. On top of the fuse are TWO small holes ith metal contacts. Those are TEST points.
Easy as pie.
BC
So I started the car and tested the current. It looks like the fuel pump is getting 14.3 volts. Is this the correct amount?
I'm not sure if this is related but I have been monitoring my voltage lately from the DIC because the car feels under powered and I thought maybe the fuel pump wasn't getting the right voltage. I have noticed that the voltage ranges from 14.6-14.4 while driving normally. When I turn my turn signal on the voltage changes from 14.6-13.8. Is that normal?