I was driving to work today and the unthinkable happened. My vett died. I was trying to pass another car and when the a4 down shifted it had about 30% of the power it normally does. When I stopped at the stop light it was idling extremely rough almost as if it were going to stall. I pulled into a parking lot off the side of the road and with a horribel rough idle the check engine light flashing at me she sputtered and died.

Now I'm sitting in an empty parking lot waiting for the toe truck to come. I'm not to worried about what is wrong with the car but I am worried how this guy is going to get her on the truck without the front end coming off.

I have to guesses for what is wrong with the car. The first thing that comes to mind is bad fuel pressure. I just had the fuel pump changed a month ago and I'm thinking the new pump might be deffective. The second thing thy comes to mind is I blew the engine. I've never thrown a rod before but I imagine you would hear a lot of metal sounds from under the hood. Since the car doesn't make any of those sounds I don't think this is the problem. The car will start again buy it shakes and vibrates horribly. Almost if certain pistons aren't firing. My check engine light is also not on.

Any thoughts?

 

The two basics.....fuel and spark. Check all your plug wires first, and if everything is in order, move on to see if you have fuel pressure.

 

First thing: Check codes!! She what pops up. Go from there.

 

Pull your codes and post them. I'm sure plenty of people will respond with help.

To enter the Diagnostic Display function perform the following steps in order:
1. Turn ON the ignition switch, engine OFF.
2. Press the RESET button to acknowledge any warning messages present.
3. Press the OPTIONS button on the Driver Information Center (DIC) and hold.
4. While holding the OPTIONS button press the FUEL button 4 times within a 10 second period.
5. System will first enter automatic display mode followed by the manual display mode.
The automatic display feature allow you to read each module DTC display function in an automatic display sequence. Each system module DTC will be displayed for 3 seconds followed by a 1 second pause before the next DTC is displayed in an automatic sequence. If no DTC information is sent to the IPC from the system currently displayed on the IPC, the IPC will display NO CODES for that system. At any time during the automatic display function, the manual display feature can be activated by pressing any button on the DIC except the E/M 5 button. The E/M 5 button is used to completely exit the DIAGNOSTICS mode at any time. If there is a communications problem between any system, the IPC will display NO COMM when the IPC is trying to communicate with that system. When all DTCs have been displayed for all systems, the IPC will display NO MORE CODES for 2 seconds then will enter the manual display mode, waiting for manual mode operation.

The manual display feature allows you to manually select each module DTC display function. The manual mode will automatically be entered after the automatic DTC display sequence is complete, or can be entered at any time during the automatic mode by pressing any button on the DIC except the E/M 5 (E/M 5 button is used to exit the DIAGNOSTIC mode at any time). When the manual mode is selected, the IPC will display the MANUAL DIAGNOSTICS mode message for 2 seconds, or until any button on the DIC except the E/M 5 is pressed. After the MANUAL DIAGNOSTICS mode message is displayed, the IPC will display the first system abbreviation and quantity of codes stored for that system, then the IPC will wait for further instructions. The buttons on the DIC provide the following functions when operating the on-board diagnostic feature in the manual mode:

DIC Button Function
FUEL 1 Previous DTC
GAGES 2 Next DTC
TRIP 3 Previous System
OPTIONS 4 Next System
E/M 5 Exit Diagnostics
RESET Clear DTCs

 

Wow great instructions. Here are thoe codes. I'll check the wires in a bit but I don't think that's the problem.

AO-LDCM
B2236H
B2282H
B2284H
U1064H

A1-RDCM
B2283H
B2285H
U1064H

A6-SCM
B2860H

 

My Z06 did something similar, I managed to limp it home. When I was diagnosing the problem another forum member suggested pulling a valve cover. To my suprise I had a broken valve spring but it hadn't dropped. Hope it ends up a minor problem for you.

 

Lucky for me I have the gm extended warranty. I've used it three times so far for a total of 4000 dollars. It's payed off well. I'm just hoping they fix the problem instead of making it worse.

 

Did you use the warranty 3 times with this Vette?

 

AO-LDCM
B2236 Left Door Lock Switch Fault

DTC B2282-B2285 Battery Supply Voltage Circuit DTC P0101 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Performance

DTC B2284 Battery #2 Circuit DTC P0103 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit High Frequency

A1-RDCM
DTC B2283 Battery #1 Circuit DTC P0102 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit Low Frequency

DTC B2285 Battery #2 Circuit DTC P0106 Manifold Absolute Pressure) Sensor Performance

U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM

 

so what does all of that lead you to believe? And yes I have used the warranty three three times. Is that bad?

 

If the battery cables are clean and tight ,,,I would look toward an electrical power problem

If who ever repairs your car doesnt tell you the ignition switch is suspect,,,,,,I would be looking for another repair place.

Check out this post:

- http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html




BC

 

I assume you have done the ultra simple like check the battery cables for security...

 

Uhm, yes I guess I should have huh? Didn't think it was a battery issue because all the elctronics aside from the engine have more than enough juice and are operating normally. The cars on the tow truck now heading to the dealer. I'll be sure to post what they say.

 

Another suggestion to try - on a couple of occassions when this has happened to other members, they discovered the air bridge or some other intake connection had worked loose allowing unmetered air in and causing the car to go into reduced power mode. I'd check all the intake air connections as well.

 

I hate to just throw out a "THIS IS THE PROBLEM" type of post. Looks electrical because numerous modules had electrical DTCs The BCM is the SERIAL DATA BUSS communications HUB for all the modules and if it shut down, WHACK, the car is dead.


Why did it shut down?? Heres a big clue!

DTC B2282-B2285 Battery Supply Voltage Circuit DTC P0101 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Performance

DTC B2284 Battery #2 Circuit DTC P0103 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit High Frequency

A1-RDCM
DTC B2283 Battery #1 Circuit DTC P0102 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit Low Frequency

DTC B2285 Battery #2 Circuit DTC P0106 Manifold Absolute Pressure) Sensor Performance

All those modules reported bad supply voltages!

The ignition switch supplies a 12 VDC "HOT in RUN & ACC" voltage to most of the modules and sensors. That basically comes from the ignition switch.

Sleep on that data and when you go to the repair shop (who ever it is) and they give you some half baked repair plan,,,decide for your self if you should walk! Hell,,see if the car will start and run. It might. This is an easy repair if you follow the instructions in the post.

Hope you come out on the easy side. GOOD LUCK!

BC

 

Bill has found a lot of failing ignition switches lately. I would listen to him if I was you. Not sure what's going on with them or if GM just used ones with insufficient contact space to hold up over the long run with these cars. Something isn't right that so many have failed.

 

Sounds good. When I dropped the car off I told them about what you guys said. They said they will look into it in the morning and let me know. It's my local Chevy dealer down the road. I still have the Government motors extended warranty so I just use them. They have been fair and honest so far.

Could a loose intake really be the cause of this? I noticed the other day that my tubing going from my blackwing to the intake was coming loose from one of the pop screws(not sure what they are called) I pushed it back in and checked the seals on the filter and the intake itself. Everything looked okay. It will be interesting to see what they say tomorrow.

Also, is the ignition switch attached to the turn signal unit? I just had that replaced when they did the fuel pump.

 

sorry, i had to giggle at that question. No, that sounds like the multifunction switch that was replaced. The ignition switch is where you put the key in to start the engine......

 

LUCKY,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Remember,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,its Wednesday!! (thats a joke between Lucky and me!)

This FOUM is G R E A T!

 

hehehe..