I've gone down the engine modding route with my WS6 before I got the vette and loved it, however I hated the reliability it lacked. Was always having some issue and worried about others. (forged 347, APS TT) I LOVE the reliability of my C5 being stock with bolt ones but coming from 667 rwhp auto WS6 to this is quite the change as you can imagine. Looking for the best route I add some ponies and keep my reliability that I have now IF possible. Of course I understand I will have to loose some because more pwoer will stress everything else such as the driveline. After looking at my options I thought of a blower kit, heads/cam, etc and both of those I believe will hinder my reliability a lot either losing driveability, stressing valvetrain, or stressing the stock bottom end in a blower app. I know some people on here have had zero issues at xxxx miles on their blower set-up but for the average Joe, being there myself, I know that's not the case in most scenerios. So I've come to one option I thought MIGHT work for what I'm looking for..... LS7.

With this, was seeing if I could find a stock LS7, add the headers to it, keep my vararam, and see some good ponies with stock GM reliability. Obviously a clutch would be in order but GM has that solution as well with the LS7 clutch. I don't really see what else could be an issue if properly swapped with a crate engine reliability wise. Would I be dipping into my reliability if I wanted to toss a BABY cam in it? What do you guys think here? Is this a pretty good solution? Give me your thoughts, and ALSO, what all is needed for the swap besides the engine and clutch? I know some wiring changes for cam sensor and such are in order, anything else major though? Thanks!

 

what about the dry sump oil system?

 

I'm fairly certain there are easier and cheaper ways to accomplish your goals of being reliable at that power level.

 

Not for nothin, but an LS7 crate engine is around, what $14000 these days?

LSX built to 427 ci with forged components = $7000 max -- this is probably the same price for 454, or pretty close to the 484 price...
Nice, nice set of 245cc heads = $2500
Cam of your choice = $400
LS6 intake and tb = $500?
Total = $10400



You'll probably make more power with the LSX too -- and have cheaper parts, easier time installing and will work with only minor changes to the stock wiring harness (need to move the cam sensor plug and run new knock sensor lines). I'm not sure what it would take to retrofit the LS7 to the stock PCM system?

If you are not hung up on the ci, a good 402/408 will run significantly less and drop right in with no changes at all to the wiring harness. For a street tune set up, the two mills will likely be able to make the same power.

 

That can be worked around, and the crank would have to come out and get a 24X reluctor wheel.

I considered this option a couple years ago and decided to go the Darton sleeved LS2 block route (4.125"x4.00") with forged internals, stock LS7 heads (non-titanium valves) and stock LS7 intake, etc.

FWIW, you may also want to check some of the established engine builders (there are several) who offer crate motors ready to drop in and they also have warranties. Cartek, LPE, Texas Speed, are just three that come to mind right off, but there are others out there too that seem to have excellent reputations for reliability and quality.

Maybe something to think about.

 

if you put in an LS7 create you need the dry sump ( LS9 or better yet the AER) system and much larger radiator.

~ $20,000 for an LS7 installed in a C5. There are FAR better options as noted above


any type of big power motor should have a dry sump oiling system and larger radiator.

 

Man for the type of money your talking about with the LS7 Im sure you could find a reputable engine builder to mod yours to a higher power level and good reliability. A good blower setup with necessary supporting mods has got to be way less than $15k!

 

like i said, i dont want a modded engine, i want he gm reliability or maybe a baby cam thats not rough on valvetrain. not needing crate engine either necess. thinking someones ls7 longblock used they pulled out. i have all my c5 accessories.

 

Contact Bob at East Coast Supercharging - he has an LS7 in his C5. Forum vendor with screen name: "Wicked Weasel@ECS". If you go to the ECS website there is a blog on the build.

 

GM Create LS3 with GM Hot CAM, comes with GM warranty

http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/Pa...l.jsp?engine=2

$7,356.55 Plus Wiring harness

 

Using an after market engine versus a GM crate engine with that kind of power wouldn't be my first concern as far as reliability. I'm hearing about guys making about 450rwhp breaking diffs and trannys both of which can be outsourced to the aftermarket.

Heavy clutches and high rpms also seem to be an issue so an after market clutch cylinder is also in order.

..and what about the torque tube? Seems like that seems to be an issue as well. About the strongest part of the drive line seem to be the CV axles. So in a nutshell, the whole driveline needs to be upgraded. Yep, it gets more and more expensive all the time.

 

Superman:

You need a dry sump tank and lines and that will run you about $1000 aftermarket or $1300 GM. If you want to convert the LS7 to wetsump you need to replace the crank because the stock LS7 crank will whip the oil into a nice froth in a wet sump setup.

The computer in a C5 can't talk with a C6 generation motor unless you either:
1) Replace the reluctor (timing) wheel on the crank.
2) Purchase the electronic box that converts the C6 gen motor timing to C5 computer $300 available at most performance shops.

Then you need wiring harness conversions for:
1) Throttle Body
2) MAP sensor (if the sensor is moved to the front of the intake)
3) CAM sensor
You will use your old MAF sensor

Then you need to figure out how to connect your injector harnesses to the LS7 injectors. I believe you will need a set of conversion plugs for these as well.

Then you need a new clutch/pressure plate....
If you want to really upgrade the quality of the torque tube shaft, do an internet search on upgrading the shaft on your torque tube to a Viper version and use the Viper Slave cylinder. I don't read about Viper owners having clutch pedal problems yet their slave cylinder is nearly identical other than mounting hole locations. If I were doing this I would seriously consider it. I don't have all the details obviously, just remember reading a little about it...


Good luck...

 

here is something to think about for a create motor vs a builder if you want RELIABILITY. From an other thread on LS6 T1 race motors.

Clicky - #78


Many of us have seen "BUILT" motors go BOOM no matter who builds them. If RELIABILITY is most important stick with a create motor

 

Don't be overwhelmed by all the opinions, get your information directly from Chris at ECS. Read my Sig. below and then call Chris. (it would be worth the travel).

My engine is a build up from the GM LS7 block using mostly C5 parts. Cam not radical because it is a RPM A4, idles nicely @675-700 rpm's.

Tuned for economy under 2500 rpm's which handles all my "regular" driving with good MPG. WOT is wild, biggest problem is traction. Almost as quiet as a stock C5 Z06 (interior fully insulated). If you drove it or rode in it you would think its a 350 slightly worked except for the very low idle sounds. No drone and people don't look at it twice because it doesn't draw attention with sound. Talking on the cell phone is quite easy. Rear wheel torque 510lbs, RWHP a little less, reliability (so far) 100%. Dynoed when brand new before break in using regular oil.

Call ECS

 

Thanks! All great info here. One bummer is the reluctor wheel issue, bummer. This will almost make me need to build up something else rather than a stock GM LS7 since it will need to be opened up and changed anyway.

My biggest concern is reliability. I want the reliability I have now with my stock bolt on motor, just in something bigger with some more GO!

 

Jay Leno put an LS7 in his 02 Z06. He's got the cabbage to do it but it's still pretty cool. He talks a little bit about what they had to change to make it fit and then he test drives it along with his other vettes on his website JayLenosgarage.com

 

If you have your heart set on a LS7, get an LS7. It is an assome engine. The 58x to 24x crankshaft encoder wheel is no big deal! You don't have to pull the crank and change it. There are boxes to make it easy. Yes, other things have to be changed, but non of them are that bad. Dry sump would be the way I'd go. You need to move thing to make room for the tank.

My second choice to the LS7 would be the newer 480 HP LS3. Both engines as recieved have great reliability.

 

If you read my post the reluctor wheel does not have to be changed. Many speed shops stock an electronic box that does the conversion for the computer. It runs about $300.

 

LPE has everything you need to convert without changing the reluctor wheel. I believe they have a kit that includes everything needed to do the job.

When we built mine we had to change the reluctor wheel, but since we were building the entire engine it was no big deal.

BTW - if you go with the dry sump you will need to move your battery to the trunk. LPE also has a solution for that.