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Already running but starter keeps going

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Old 08-22-2009, 07:42 AM
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Twisted99
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Default Already running but starter keeps going

Went to leave work Thursday, turned the key and started as usual except for this loud squeal like a locked AC clutch, I turn the ignition off and the starter keeps engaging. I quickly disconnect the negative battery cable, when I tried to reconnect same thing: starter turns. I disconnect the positive side and wait 2 minutes, reconnect and starts up normal. Where do I start?
Old 08-22-2009, 09:13 AM
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crainholio
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Remove starter and take to parts store for testing.
Old 08-22-2009, 11:42 AM
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lucky131969
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With the battery disconnected, I would inspect the starter wiring. If it looks good, I would disconnect the solenoid wiring...then reconnect the battery, and check for 12 volts at the S terminal (purple wire) when the ignition is turned to the start position. You want to make sure the voltage drops out when the key is turned off. If that is good, then the solenoid is probably shot.
Old 08-22-2009, 12:30 PM
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Blown427conv
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IMO the solenoid is probably shot. I've experienced this before with a bad solenoid.
Old 08-22-2009, 08:58 PM
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Bill Curlee
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Lucky and Blown427conv have excellent recommendations. If you have constant voltage on the S (purple wire) the theft deterrent relay (TDR) is stuck in the ennergized state. If the purple wire has zero volts, the solenoid is stuck in the ennergized state.

The TDR located in the passengers foot well above the Body Control Module (BCM).



The four wire colors are Purple, Red, yellow/black stripe and yellow
Old 08-22-2009, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Blown427conv
IMO the solenoid is probably shot. I've experienced this before with a bad solenoid.
Old 08-23-2009, 09:20 AM
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Twisted99
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Lucky and Blown427conv have excellent recommendations. If you have constant voltage on the S (purple wire) the theft deterrent relay (TDR) is stuck in the ennergized state. If the purple wire has zero volts, the solenoid is stuck in the ennergized state.
This has only occurred once. If I check the voltages now won't they be "normal"?
Old 08-23-2009, 11:38 AM
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lucky131969
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Originally Posted by Twisted99
This has only occurred once. If I check the voltages now won't they be "normal"?
Obviously they will if you can duplicate the problem. I guess the action you take depends on if you want this to happen again....and it will happen again. At the very least, I would inspect the wiring at the starter, and replace the solenoid...
Old 08-23-2009, 11:40 AM
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schpenxel
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Originally Posted by Twisted99
This has only occurred once. If I check the voltages now won't they be "normal"?
yes.

i had this happen once when i had just put a new motor in a lincoln LS and a wire on the starter was hitting something on the solenoid and making it stick.

actually i had something similar happen a supercharged camaro i built a while back.. except i destroyed the flywheel and starter when it happened on that one,
Old 08-23-2009, 01:12 PM
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I'd think about replacing both the solenoid and TDR relady ASAP. If you frag the flywheel, the pain really begins, not to mention possible overheated wires and overheated battery if you can't get it shut down in time.
Old 08-23-2009, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
Obviously they will if you can duplicate the problem. I guess the action you take depends on if you want this to happen again....and it will happen again. At the very least, I would inspect the wiring at the starter, and replace the solenoid...
I will check the wiring, and probably replace the solenoid ASAP. I have not looked yet, does the starter need to be removed to replace the solenoid?
Old 08-24-2009, 02:19 PM
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The starter has to be dropped to get the solenoid off or there will be very little access to it. Disconnect the negative battery cable before you do it. I think the front of the exhaust has to be dropped to get it off also. (starter)
Old 08-24-2009, 03:04 PM
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weak solenoid spring.....supposed to return the starter drive gear back to the dis-engaged position... if it only happened once, it will probably happen again sooner or later...most likely sooner...
Old 08-24-2009, 09:36 PM
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If you can easily loosen without removing the starter (after disconnecting battery) then you can try some white lithuim grease on the bendix. In the past this has allowed me to keep a starter working longer. However if it's a lot of labor (exhaust etc) to loosen, then you might as well replace.
Old 08-26-2009, 08:19 PM
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Thanks everyone I will check the connections this weekend, and if they are good looks like I'll be pulling the starter and replacing the solenoid

Again, THANKS for all the info.
Old 08-30-2009, 03:23 PM
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OK, so I checked the connections and the look OK, but there is a loom that looks like in is being pinched. I took some pics that I will post later.
ALSO, I had the "service column lock" crap back in December and took it to the dealer (no recall done prior) today I'm getting "pull key and wait 10 seconds" and "service column lock". Car dies if I try to move more than a few feet. The battery was NOT at full charge when I got these messages today. So my question is could ALL this be ignition switch related?
Old 08-31-2009, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Twisted99
OK, so I checked the connections and the look OK, but there is a loom that looks like in is being pinched. I took some pics that I will post later.
ALSO, I had the "service column lock" crap back in December and took it to the dealer (no recall done prior) today I'm getting "pull key and wait 10 seconds" and "service column lock". Car dies if I try to move more than a few feet. The battery was NOT at full charge when I got these messages today. So my question is could ALL this be ignition switch related?
Battery MUST be fully charged. Yes the Ignition switch can cause this issue. It will limit the voltage to the BCM as well as other modules. Best bet is to do some checking with a volt meter.

BC

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Old 09-07-2009, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Battery MUST be fully charged. Yes the Ignition switch can cause this issue. It will limit the voltage to the BCM as well as other modules. Best bet is to do some checking with a volt meter.

BC
Had the battery tender on all week, started up today, and got 'pull key and wait 10 sec". Where do I start checking with volt meter, or could this be related to the recall i had done in December?
Old 09-07-2009, 10:51 AM
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Check out this post:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
Old 09-07-2009, 03:37 PM
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Checked all the fuses mentioned in the other thread, and all have battery voltage, 11.5-12.8v. If I hook up a battery charger and check they all go up to 14v range. As soon as I turn key to the ON position, not Start, I get "service column lock" or "pull key and wait 10 sec." Should I be reading the column lock thread...AGAIN


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