IMO the solenoid is probably shot. I've experienced this before with a bad solenoid.
Already running but starter keeps going
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 758
Likes: 3
From: Gold Canyon AZ
Already running but starter keeps going
Went to leave work Thursday, turned the key and started as usual except for this loud squeal like a locked AC clutch, I turn the ignition off and the starter keeps engaging. I quickly disconnect the negative battery cable, when I tried to reconnect same thing: starter turns. I disconnect the positive side and wait 2 minutes, reconnect and starts up normal. Where do I start?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,401
Likes: 1,144
From: Dyer, IN
With the battery disconnected, I would inspect the starter wiring. If it looks good, I would disconnect the solenoid wiring...then reconnect the battery, and check for 12 volts at the S terminal (purple wire) when the ignition is turned to the start position. You want to make sure the voltage drops out when the key is turned off. If that is good, then the solenoid is probably shot.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Lucky and Blown427conv have excellent recommendations. If you have constant voltage on the S (purple wire) the theft deterrent relay (TDR) is stuck in the ennergized state. If the purple wire has zero volts, the solenoid is stuck in the ennergized state.
The TDR located in the passengers foot well above the Body Control Module (BCM).
The four wire colors are Purple, Red, yellow/black stripe and yellow
The TDR located in the passengers foot well above the Body Control Module (BCM).
The four wire colors are Purple, Red, yellow/black stripe and yellow
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 758
Likes: 3
From: Gold Canyon AZ
This has only occurred once. If I check the voltages now won't they be "normal"?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,401
Likes: 1,144
From: Dyer, IN
Obviously they will if you can duplicate the problem. I guess the action you take depends on if you want this to happen again....and it will happen again. At the very least, I would inspect the wiring at the starter, and replace the solenoid...
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
Race Director
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 16,667
Likes: 1,209
From: Raleigh, NC
St. Jude Donor '15
i had this happen once when i had just put a new motor in a lincoln LS and a wire on the starter was hitting something on the solenoid and making it stick.
actually i had something similar happen a supercharged camaro i built a while back.. except i destroyed the flywheel and starter when it happened on that one,
Racer
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 263
Likes: 1
From: Andover KS
I'd think about replacing both the solenoid and TDR relady ASAP. If you frag the flywheel, the pain really begins, not to mention possible overheated wires and overheated battery if you can't get it shut down in time.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 758
Likes: 3
From: Gold Canyon AZ
I will check the wiring, and probably replace the solenoid ASAP. I have not looked yet, does the starter need to be removed to replace the solenoid?
Racer
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 263
Likes: 1
From: Andover KS
The starter has to be dropped to get the solenoid off or there will be very little access to it. Disconnect the negative battery cable before you do it. I think the front of the exhaust has to be dropped to get it off also. (starter)
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,983
Likes: 393
From: Stoney Creek Ontario
weak solenoid spring.....supposed to return the starter drive gear back to the dis-engaged position... if it only happened once, it will probably happen again sooner or later...most likely sooner...
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,526
Likes: 18
From: Santa Fe TX
If you can easily loosen without removing the starter (after disconnecting battery) then you can try some white lithuim grease on the bendix. In the past this has allowed me to keep a starter working longer. However if it's a lot of labor (exhaust etc) to loosen, then you might as well replace.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 758
Likes: 3
From: Gold Canyon AZ
Thanks everyone 
I will check the connections this weekend, and if they are good looks like I'll be pulling the starter and replacing the solenoid 
Again, THANKS for all the info.
I will check the connections this weekend, and if they are good looks like I'll be pulling the starter and replacing the solenoid Again, THANKS for all the info.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 758
Likes: 3
From: Gold Canyon AZ
OK, so I checked the connections and the look OK, but there is a loom that looks like in is being pinched. I took some pics that I will post later.
ALSO, I had the "service column lock" crap back in December and took it to the dealer (no recall done prior) today I'm getting "pull key and wait 10 seconds" and "service column lock". Car dies if I try to move more than a few feet. The battery was NOT at full charge when I got these messages today. So my question is could ALL this be ignition switch related?
ALSO, I had the "service column lock" crap back in December and took it to the dealer (no recall done prior) today I'm getting "pull key and wait 10 seconds" and "service column lock". Car dies if I try to move more than a few feet. The battery was NOT at full charge when I got these messages today. So my question is could ALL this be ignition switch related?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
OK, so I checked the connections and the look OK, but there is a loom that looks like in is being pinched. I took some pics that I will post later.
ALSO, I had the "service column lock" crap back in December and took it to the dealer (no recall done prior) today I'm getting "pull key and wait 10 seconds" and "service column lock". Car dies if I try to move more than a few feet. The battery was NOT at full charge when I got these messages today. So my question is could ALL this be ignition switch related?
ALSO, I had the "service column lock" crap back in December and took it to the dealer (no recall done prior) today I'm getting "pull key and wait 10 seconds" and "service column lock". Car dies if I try to move more than a few feet. The battery was NOT at full charge when I got these messages today. So my question is could ALL this be ignition switch related?
BC
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 758
Likes: 3
From: Gold Canyon AZ
Had the battery tender on all week, started up today, and got 'pull key and wait 10 sec". Where do I start checking with volt meter, or could this be related to the recall i had done in December?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 758
Likes: 3
From: Gold Canyon AZ
Checked all the fuses mentioned in the other thread, and all have battery voltage, 11.5-12.8v. If I hook up a battery charger and check they all go up to 14v range. As soon as I turn key to the ON position, not Start, I get "service column lock" or "pull key and wait 10 sec." Should I be reading the column lock thread...AGAIN