Ok I have been searching and searching this forum and google and so on about running solid bushings in your torque tube fro LG Motorsports. I can see that some of you are Running 1 solid and 1 rubber and a few of you are running both solid. So here is what have and and i want to see if any of you have had this problem or know of anything like this ever happening.

I have an 02 Vette with a heads and cam. The motor does not have an oil cooler in it right now but will with in a day or two. But I still have My original TT in the car but the driveshaft in it broke a while back so i took it out and had put in all the internals out of a 99 in the cause it is what i had laying around the shop. Everything fit just fine no problems i knows it's a bit smaller i diameter but oh well.

So here is where the problem lies. when i did this i put 2 solid bushing in there from LG, they are the thin bushings they have 2 different sizes for some reason. anyways i put eveything back together drove th car for 30 miles and the oil temp got to 300 degree's and burned the motor up. So up on taking the motor apart 2 thing i noticed 1 is that there was no pilot bearing in the car and i have known that no pilot bearing will will take out the number 5 main cap bearing but the bearing was fine. 2 it that among burning up the motor due to excessive heat i am assuming caused by friction because it was like the internals of the TT were to LONG i say this because the crank was being PUSHED or PULLED twards the fromt of the motor. The number 3 main cap with the thrust bearing was wiped out on the back side of the bearing was gone as if the counter weight was pushing on the bearing causing friction and heat.

I want to see if anyone else has ever had this happen by running 2 solid bushings or if something else or what.

 

Has anyone ever put a TT together with solid bushings and have it come out just a bit to long to were the input shaft would would push on the crank to cause damage to motor?

 

NO, I have never done this nor would I ever. You however are not the first to have this happen.

There are a number of GOOD reasons why the couplings are made to flex. You found out one of them.

Sorry to here about your issues, hope you get things straighten out.

 

anyone????

 

What does this mean? You installed two different size solid bushings?

 

no that lg sells two size`s. The ones in the car are the same size as the rubber ones that where in the car.

 

Sorry, but no info in your sig. I take it you have a manual trans?

 

Did you do the warm up and cool down cycle with the clamp bolt loose? You likely already know that and I am not sure it would cause your problem, just a thought.

 

You need to post up a lot more info.

Automatic or Six speed ? Engine Info and turbo configuration ?

 

automatic ls7 440 with alot of nitrous

 

Well, automatic transmission equiped vettes do not use a pilot bushing.

There is a special start-up procedure

Important
The following steps MUST be performed in order to provide proper alignment of the propeller
shaft hub, the propeller input shaft and the propeller input shaft front bearing.

77. Start and run the engine at idle until normal operating temperatures are reached. (Idle or drive for at least 10 minutes.)
78. Turn off the engine and allow the powertrain to cool to ROOM temperature.
79. Raise the vehicle.
80. Tighten the propeller shaft hub clamp bolt (1). Tighten the propeller shaft hub clamp bolt to 130 N•m (96 lb ft).

If you didn't follow these procedures that could be your problem.

 

Ok thanks i will try that first thing in the morning.

Question though. It looks like you got those instructions out a some type of manual. If so what kind was it?

And other question is this stepped to be performed on all vette's or just fully built ones. do you do this step if you have a 6 speed? Just courious and thanks for your replies and help.

 

It from the DVD service manual. You should have a set for your car as there are a lot of specialized instuctions for working on these cars.

The instructions are for an automatic only as manuals do not have front spline shafts, they have clutch disc.

Sounds to me like you tighten the spline shaft incorrectly and it took out your thrust bearing.

I've heard of this problem on a couple of triple clutch disc's but not on an automatic.

You're the first.

 

Whow that's crazy man!!!

I am an automatic 98 running two solid lg bushings no problems.

When you said that " they are the thin bushings they have 2 different sizes for some reason" you really confused me. Lg sells two different size bushings but they are the same width what varies is the hole size for the bolts. I believe one of the bushings has 6 10mm holes which is used on the 97-2000 and the other are 6 12mm holes which are used on the 2000 and up. I would not consider neither one of the bushings as thin. Automatics do not use a pilot bearings. I really don't know exactly what you did that caused your motor to fry but i wouln't blame it on the LG solid couplers because they are great.

 

Typically I do not do two solid bushings as I like to have some room for miss-alignment and the rubber gives you that. Now I have done two solids before but they have all been on manual cars.

 

I had the solid bushing mounted in the rear of my 2001 auto in August of 2008 as the stock bushings were toast. The car is not my daily driver but has been used, no track time as it is a vert and no roll bar. Anyways I recently drove the car from So Cal to No Cal (380 miles) and when I got there I heard a grinding sound from the torque tube. It turns out that the bearings were fried in the tube and the tube was pushing on the crank and the torque converter showing signs of wear. The rubber bushing in the front was deformed showing signs that it was pushed up into the engine. After taking the tube apart the shop that did the work originally found that after reassembling the tube it was too long by a about 1/8" so they removed material from the solid bushing. I just got the car back and am hoping for the best. The shop covered part of the repair fortunately.

 

sorry to hear that happened to you. Almost certain it was due to improper installation on behalf of the shop. if the torque tube is 1\8 or even 1\2 inch longer of shorter it doesnt matter because the splined shaft has plenty of clearance back and forth when it enters the flywheel bracket. what they did is they clamped it down while the car was cold causing the torque tube to expand as the car warmed up and pushing everything in its way forward. Its a simple 15 min procedure that if you forget will toast the crank, the bearings, and even the shaft. when i did the solid setup in front and back i was 1/4 short compared to stock. I did a thread on the fact that solid couplers are 1\8 less thick than rubber ones. I even put pics.