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I need a little help before going to the dealership.
My car will not start and it is has been giving me indications that this day was coming.
I'm getting a charge system fault message.
Advanced Auto thought it was my alternator, so I put a new one in. No help. Next I thought it was the battery. I put a new one in yesterday. Still no help.
When you turn the key, it just clicks one time. All of the power options work (radio/lights/etc)
I have been able to get it to start after turning the key by as much as 20 times or so. But now, I'm not having any luck.
Lastly, the other day, I was driving down the interstate at 70mph, I get a charge system fault message and then see the bttery volt meter go all the way down to zero and the car quits, while going 70! I cruise over to the side of the road and have my wife come out with the jumper cables. Car starts up after some coaxing and she drives it home.
your sounds a little differant than mine, but my selniod in the starter doesnt engage. I think my headers are to close when only when the car is hot, it doesnt start but make about the same noise.
My car has never just died like yours on the side if the road.
But I have to turn the key on and off 10 + times waiting for the starter to catch
your sounds a little differant than mine, but my selniod in the starter doesnt engage. I think my headers are to close when only when the car is hot, it doesnt start but make about the same noise.
My car has never just died like yours on the side if the road.
But I have to turn the key on and off 10 + times waiting for the starter to catch
the only thing that throws away from that is the charging system failure light....definately sounds like a ground issue. That is the same click when you dont have the ground side of jumper cables attached to battery very good. It evidently has just enough connection for accessories to run but not enough for the load of the motor.
Steven
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Check your battery cable where it bolts onto the starter solenoid. Cereal.
Oh btw, whatever you do, make SURE you disconnect the negative battery cable before you go poking around down by, or on, the starter solenoid with anything metal in your hands or (on your fingers) unless you have a welded wrench/socket in mind.
Btw, the red positive lead from the alternator goes there too. Just in case you're wondering.
Have you inspected the ignition switch contacts? Sounds very familiar....
I checked the battery cables and there wasn't any corrosion and they seemed to not be loose.
I popped the clutch to get it started and drove it to the dealership. While I can bolt on the headers and change the plugs, I'm not familiar enough to chase down the ground points or ignition switch contacts. So I'll pay these guys to do it.
I'll update the forum with what the dealership tells me, then you guys can let me know if the price is fair.
Thanks for the help!
-Oh, at the dealership, the car clicked once, I tried again and it started right up, two times in a row.
If you can install headers, you can install starter. It' probably couple hundred for starter. Depending on miles on your car, may not be a bad idea instead of just solenoid.
The dealer will NOT just replace the solenoid. Its a new GM Delco starter. Its a new $$$ GM DELCO $$$ , tarter or nothing.
Solenoid failure is a very common issue. However,,,,unless you do the trouble shooting, your shooting in the dark. Hope you kept all the old partshey were still good.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
The dealer will NOT just replace the solenoid. Its a new GM Delco starter. Its a new $$$ GM DELCO $$$ , tarter or nothing.
Solenoid failure is a very common issue. However,,,,unless you do the trouble shooting, your shooting in the dark. Hope you kept all the old partshey were still good.
BC
Yep. Even if they only find a loose battery cable down there, they are STILL likely to replace the entire starter assembly, and tell you "It was the starter sir, pay me".
They said all of the ground wires look good. The starter cables look good. The car is starting everytime and the battey is charging, but only at 13 volts or so. They told me it should be between 14 and 14.7, so maybe the new (reman.) alternator I bought is not good?
Anyway, $55 so far for them to start my car up a dozen times and check all of the grounds.
They said all of the ground wires look good. The starter cables look good. The car is starting everytime and the battey is charging, but only at 13 volts or so. They told me it should be between 14 and 14.7, so maybe the new (reman.) alternator I bought is not good?
Anyway, $55 so far for them to start my car up a dozen times and check all of the grounds.
I would still inspect the ignition switch contacts. The only other thing you can do is troubleshoot it in the no start condition with a DMM.
They said all of the ground wires look good. The starter cables look good. The car is starting everytime and the battey is charging, but only at 13 volts or so. They told me it should be between 14 and 14.7, so maybe the new (reman.) alternator I bought is not good?
Anyway, $55 so far for them to start my car up a dozen times and check all of the grounds.
That right there should clue you in on the reaming you’re about to get from the dealer.
Take some “KY Jelly” with you next time if you decide to allow the dealer to do more repairs or “diagnosing”.
Repair prices should escalate now that dealers need to supplement their business due to car sales being down. Since many Americans got their “cash for clunkers” deal, I think car sales will be lagging for quite some time. Ford, Toyota, and Honda benefited the most according to the Wall Street Journal.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by lucky131969
I would still inspect the ignition switch contacts. The only other thing you can do is troubleshoot it in the no start condition with a DMM.
That would be my next line of troubleshooting too.
Btw, I hope they did more than just "look" at the battery/alternator connections on the starter solenoid, as opposed to actually checking them for tightness, etc.
Can you see if possibly you have a wire or battery cable touching the header? If a wire would burn on the header it will cause it to short out and not charge and start.