H/C A4 with a 2800Vig...seems like when I first pull her out of the garage...after letting the engine get to operating temp...if I hit it she hits the revlimiter. Once the rest of the drivetrain warms up it's fine.

Is this common with a stall'ed A4?

Thanks.

 

Maybe the transmission isn't shifting fast enough? Could a tuner set it to shift a little lower that way it won't do that? Or maybe just let everything warm up first, it sounds like the shift pressure might be changing due to the viscosity of the warmed up tranny fluid as opposed to cold.

Keep in mind I'm just throwing some ideas out there, I am not an expert in any way.

 

Yea I'm thinking it's a fluid thing too, but don't know enough to confirm!

This is also my first modded vehicle, so I'm learning about all the nuances etc.

 

I guess you mean it hits the rev limiter while shifting---for example if the 1-2 shift is commnanded at 6000 it will skip past 6000 and hit the safety limiter--probably 6400 or so--This is common on a modded engine and stall can make it worse---There are 2 things that you can help make it shift--You 1st must adjust the "upshift at vehicle speed at WOT"so that the WOT shift speed occurs at least 1000 to 1200 RPM's lower than the shift at RPM ---so if the WOT shift speed for the 1-2 shift is set at 45 MPH---and your shift RPM is 6000---you would want the shift MPH of 45 MPH to be around 5000 to 4800 ( 1000 to 1200 less)---if at 45 MPH the shift RPMs are more --then lower the speed to 40---In EFILIVE this is calculated for you automatically on the bottom of the page and all you do is change the MPH to get the desired point
It's somewhat confusing---often called the "VSS" table
Another way is to lower the"force motor current" ( in the trans pressure tables) by a %--from 42 PSI on--Start with subtracting 10% to the entire table from 42 PSI on--this really helps it shift --If it still bangs the limiter--subtract another 10%---never go beyond having the bottom row less than .025

 

It is fun isn't it? I'm also on my first stalled A4, 3200 Vig, kind of annoying driving around town but not horrible, car has 3.42 rear as well which i've heard makes the stall easier to live with.

 

3.42's here too. I've found that around town it's better to leave it in 3rd since it will lockup at just over 35mph and not feel like your driving in mud. It will also keep the trans temp lower since it's not slipping in 4th at much.

Yes, it's the 1-2 shift when cold that's the problem. I was wondering if there are cold/hot shift point tables???

 

I dont want to scare you but my c5 stared to hit the rev all the time during wot even if i shifted early manually. then the tranny started to slip about a month later

 

I dont want to scare you but my c5 stared to hit the rev all the time during wot even if i shifted early manually. then the tranny started to slip about a month later

What did you have to it to fix it. I am running 3.42 gears and a 2,000 stall converter with about 450 crank hp. The other day I kicked it in the *** coming on the interstate and it went to first and when it came back to second it felt like I hit the revlimiter. Since then I have been getting an intermitent P1870. I have changed torque converter no help, and changed the valve body no help. I am begining to think I burnt the 2-4 band or one of the clutches. Having fun now!

 

on mine it was the band that messed up... i went ahead and replaced everything once i was there because im pretty sure the stock ones wernt going to hold much longer

 

It could need the shift points to be adjusted but also you can be low on fluid. When its cold the fluid is "thin" and may not give you enough pressure to shift wot which is why you hit the rev limiter. As it warms up it expands and delivers more pressure solving the problem. Thing is when you hit the limiter if its cold its damaging the trans since the band doesnt get enough fluid to shift properly.

 

I wouldn't think that with only 30,000 miles that the tranny it on it's way out. Especially since I've only just done the h/c recently and don't track it at all!

Thanks for the feedback guys...keep it coming.

 

My set up is an RPM Stage IV -A4, Yank SS3200 and 3:42's and I do not have the Rev Limiter problem. shifts perfectly cold or warm.

Before replacing the A4 I did have a rev limiter issue in the shift from 2nd to 3rd. Wouldn't shift until I let of the gas. When I replaced the transmission the problem went away.

Hope you get it worked out

 

mine only had about 12k

 

trany is broken , serious

 

Get it tuned !!!!--Why spend 3K on a tranny when a tune will most likely fix it--I 've tuned many many hds/cam stalled A4's with a stock trans and have only had one that blew but it had 175K miles on the clock--If you have already tuned it--do it again to fix the shifting--as the tranny wears it needs help to shift as explained in my previous post--

 

Sorry bud with a little more power it doesnt take much for these A4's to take a dump. Theyre not very built very strong but at least you'll find a lot of good deals on strong race rebuilds out there.

 

My built a4 does it as well it can be fixed in the tune, after 350rwhp save ur money, mine is in the tune I know it is,that's how a valve stretched & split in half & stayed in the cc & put a 1/4 gash in the piston on cylndr 7 ,I was in the limiter ,got out & right back in it & lost power over revving the tune is off on my car ,I will admit that,my tuner says after I take thw car to the dyno don't go over 4k rpm,wtf,how are u gonna do that,I leaned the fuel puump out & put a 255lr & a kb. Bap ,went back to the dyno. & the tc wouldn't lock up , take it out to put anoter one in it & tuner is no where to be found ggggrrrr,time to go to a different tuner
y

 

Hi--you can run it on the dyno with the converter UNLOCKED-- If you have a stall less than 3200 chances are it will show about 10-20 RWHP less when unlocked--To lock it they or you must have EFILIVE or HP software to lock it ---Not totally sure if HP will lock it----To help tune a stall converter to lock you can set the PWM MIN. table to 99% and the MAX to 100%--You can also raise the pressure application RATES a little -especially in the lower RPM ranges--The smaller diam. stalls are notorious for locking issues--however the most you usually can go on a stock diameter converter is around 2800---But the lock-up pack diameter is so much more beefier and will last longer--

PS Also if you have the converter out and can get to the trans input shaft--most hi-perf tranny rebuilders will just take out the check ball in the center of the shaft--this eliminates all the modulation and slow engagement of the lock-up function--and tunining the lock-up won't be needed--

 

As the others have said, check the fluid level. If the fluid level is fine, then take it in for a tune and see if they can resolve the issue. I have a Vigilante 2800 stall and 3.42 gears and I don't hit the limiter when cold.

 

If anyone is interested in the fix, let me know by responding to the bump as this is a very old post.