Trying to remove the EBCM on my YR 2000 vette - I have removed the 4 torx screws and the one 10mm bolt on the bottom

Two issues:

1) How do I removed the wiring plug




2) There is a 10mm bolt on the bottom middle which I removed - When I try to separate the EBCM from the BPMV, the EBCM pushed against the bolt and I'm afraid to lift it above it so it will clear

 

Chris, for the plug, that big black thing that looks like a hinge is retainer for the plug -- if you open that up, it will pull the plug for you.

BTW, mine is a 97, so the EBTCM is in the rear for me -- it was much easier to get at!

 

If you go to absfixer.com, there are detailed instructions on how to remove and replace.

 

Lift up on the black metal bail (handle) and the cam-action of it will unlock the connector like TurboB says.

That bolt at the bottom has to be removed since it goes all the way through a hole EBCM. You need to raise the whole assembly high enough to get it out. Even if you slightly bend the metal brake line tubes a little, it won't hurt them.

HTH

 

Only problem there is that removal procedure is for the '01-'04 and the EBCM has two electrical plugs and 6 screws instead of 4.

 

The procedure for replacing the EBCM..... The only special tool you need is a T-20 Torx screwdriver.
I have a Craftsman tool set that has a 1/4" drive screwdriver with and adapter for many different size bit. Unfortunately, the adapter was too long to fit between the EBCM and water pump, so I purchased a set of Craftsman 5 pc. Torx screwdriver set that worked fine. A flathead screwdriver may also be needed to pry apart the EBCM from the BPMV
1 - make sure the car is off.
2 - You will probably need to remove the air bridge to get to the EBCM.
3 - Remove the wire harness by first removing the white plastic clip that locks it in place (I cut it off and replaced it with a zip-tie) , then lift gray handle and pull back on the wire harness . At this point, you will be able to see the second wire connection that is removed by pulling down EBCM.

The EBCM is on the left with the large wire harness coming into it and the sticker on top. The Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV) in on the right with the brake lines coming out.



4 - The service manual calls for you the remove the 2 insulator nuts that hold the BPMV to the brackets and lift the EBCM/BPMV out of the bracket. I do not think this step is necessary because there is plenty of room while it is still in the bracket and you do not gain much additional clearance since the brake lines restricts the movement.
5 - Remove the 6 T-20 Torx screws connecting the EBCM and BPMV - 1 on each corner and 2 on the sides


6 - "Separate the EBCM from the BPMV by gently pulling apart until separated" - I should start laughing here, but it's not that funny. It's been my experience that anytime the instructions call for you to do something gently, nothing gentle is going to work. In this case, I had to use a flathead screwdriver to break the seal. Once it moved a little, the rest was easy. In addition to the rubber seal, each of the 12 holes you see in has a peg in them from the BPMV. Don't go crazy, but be prepared to force them apart.
7 - At this point, all you've got to do is put it all back together. Push the new EBCM onto the BPMV.
8 - Replace the 6 T-20 torx screws
9 - Reconnect the wire harness
10 - Put the intake back on

 

Heres a better shot of the plug and the bail that secures the plug.

Normaly theres a small plastic security plug that is inserted into the hole on the TOP of the connector. You need to remove that plastic plug first. Then just lift up on the bail.

Bail shut:



Bail OPEN:





BC

 

Once again, this is not correct for the 2000 EBCM that is being serviced here.
His EBCM only has 4 T20 Torx screws holding it onto the BPMV and he only has 1 (one) electrical plug-in connector, not 2.

Although most of the basic info regarding location, tools, etc is the same, there are differences in C5 EBTM modules, depending on which year model is being serviced.

 

One down, one to go

Resolved the pin issue - Bill thanks for pictures - I wasn't pulling the handle hard enough, I stopped pulling at the first 'notch' in fear of breaking something

STILL don't know how to resolve the removal of bushing in picture # 2 - I could force the EBCM up, but would have to move in at least 3 inches and concerned about bending brake lines

 

Loosen or remove the 2 lower EBCM/BPMV mounting bushing nuts on the opposite side from the connector. What you need to do is lift the entire assembly up out of the cast aluminum mounting bracket (the mounting holes are slotted) and move it to one side slightly so it will stay there while you remove the long stud at the bottom on the other (connector) side. In the process of raising this assembly up, the brake lines may bend slightly, but that's OK as they are not being deformed or damaged in any way.

I just performed this task a few weeks ago and it can be done, you just have to be a little patient and not afraid to use the force necessary to raise the assembly up and over out of the mounting bracket.

Tip: Leave one of the top 2 T20 Torx screws installed ("finger tight" is fine) until you remove that bottom stud I mentioned. Once you raise the assembly high enough, you will see that this mounting stud has a hex on it for a 13mm/14mm?? (don't quote me on size here) that is concealed behind the mounting bracket and not visible when installed. Remove the stud first (easy to do), and then remove that last T20 screw.
HTH

 

Yes. The two lower screws are on the driver's side of the car. You don't need to remove them, merely loosen them a bit and the entire unit can be raised an inch or so (just enough to lift it above the bracket). Once it is out of the bracket, you can then seperate the unit. You might need a flat head screwdriver to do this and do it slowly, ensuring you have all of the bolts removed.

I got to the separation point and was using a screwdriver and it wouldn't budge. I finally realized I had one bolt still holding it together....hence why I say to go slowly.

Did you see my post about this? I took a few pictures of the unit and where it was bolted that might help (at the bottom of the first page)
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...c-c1243-h.html

 

 

Thanks! Got mine off and now I need to find a new one.

 

Thanks LoneStarFRC as well as the other guy! Is it really safe to drive with this thing off?

 

SKelly,

You won't have Traction control or ABS capabilities, but still drives fine - You will notice that it is a little harder to turn the steering wheel

After I removed my EBCM, I covered it with plastic and zipped tied it to keep rain and dirt out

Why are you removing your EBCM (what codes)? What year is yours?

 

It's a 99 FRC with the C1255 code. I understand this is the code of death. I am going to try to find a used EBCM this week.

 

Go to the auction site or look in or ask around in the For Sale sections of some of the other Corvette related websites.
Personally, I would not buy used. You may very well just be buying someone else's problem. Personally I got lucky and found an individual selling a new unit for $300 on one of the other Corvette web-sites.

Note: As long as you do NOT have Active Handling on your car, you need GM part number: 9367071

 

Hey guys. Finally got a new EBCM for code C1255 and after replacing it, it now has 1247, 1271, 1272, 1282, 1285, and 1296. WTF over?

 

Is your "new" EBCM new or used and where did you get it? If your pretty sure you don't have a defective unit I'd suggest inspecting the wiring plug/harness and ensuring that no damage was done when you removed it. I had to take mine out to send it to ABSFixer a couple of weeks ago, so I know you have to pull pretty hard...

I'm sure one of the electrical experts here will chime in at some point.

 

Brandon told me that the C1255 code means the EBCM is NFG and has an internal failure that he can't fix. They are not rebuildable electronics wise. Maybe you can add some components on the exposed side of the circuit card, but you can't take it further apart to service the back side.

The wiring harness looks good too. The unit was new but I think it is the wrong part number. It bolts up fine but I wonder if the FRC part of my car has some special options.