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select ride problem with a C-5

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Old Sep 7, 2009 | 08:35 PM
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Default select ride problem with a C-5

I recently purchased a low mileage C5. Everything is right in the car but the select ride appears to be in Sport mode and will not switch to Tour. Both fuses are fine. I would like to tour in "tour".

There are no messages on the display. Is there some manner to check before taking it to the dealer?

As I said, absolutely everything else on the car is right. Any help is appreciated.
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Old Sep 7, 2009 | 09:30 PM
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James

You need a finely tuned BUTTOMETER to feel the difference between the three modes. What makes you think that it isnt working??

I consider the F-45 Real Time Dampening a complete waste of cash. The F-45 is on a base suspension and the handling (in my opinion) sucks. Some people like it

So,,if I were you,,,,i would up-grade to better shocks. There are easy ways to do this.

To see if your F-45 system is working, you need to see if there are any system Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) set

Heres a procedure for reading your own DTCs

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.

Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

Here is very good site of DTC definitions:


http://www.gearchatter.com


Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!


Check the DTCs and post the results. If you have a ton of DTCs,,,clear them all and take the car for a drive. If theres anything wrong, the DTCs will come back. Its always easier to concentrate on the important ones!

BC
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Old Sep 7, 2009 | 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by James K
I recently purchased a low mileage C5. Everything is right in the car but the select ride appears to be in Sport mode and will not switch to Tour. Both fuses are fine. I would like to tour in "tour".

There are no messages on the display. Is there some manner to check before taking it to the dealer?

As I said, absolutely everything else on the car is right. Any help is appreciated.
Do you happen to have an F55 car (03-04)? That would be obvious if you only have sport and tour options on the control. An F45 car will have a three-position switch. If you do, there is a very small chance that the car was not prepped properly at the dealership (look up shock stuffers). It's amazing, but cars will still occasionally pop up without these shipping items removed.
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Old Sep 7, 2009 | 11:12 PM
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I frequently forget about F-55. I dont see many C5s with that option. If you have F-55, thats not a bad system.

BC
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 06:52 PM
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I took the car to a friend who also checked the fuses, looked under the car (that's necessary, right?) checked the codes, etc. All to no avail. My friend owns a performance shop. He says that turning the switch on the select ride should cause a display on the DIC, which does not happen.
I also have a 2003 convertible without the select drive and the ride is great. I just believe that the "tour" mode on the 2004 has to be as good. We have ordered a new switch, which will arrive in 5 days. In the meantime I will look up "shock stuffers". And yes ,it is a F55. Very low mileage.
Thanks for your help. If you think of anything else, please let me know.

JK





Originally Posted by BanditDude
Do you happen to have an F55 car (03-04)? That would be obvious if you only have sport and tour options on the control. An F45 car will have a three-position switch. If you do, there is a very small chance that the car was not prepped properly at the dealership (look up shock stuffers). It's amazing, but cars will still occasionally pop up without these shipping items removed.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by James K
I took the car to a friend who also checked the fuses, looked under the car (that's necessary, right?) checked the codes, etc. All to no avail. My friend owns a performance shop. He says that turning the switch on the select ride should cause a display on the DIC, which does not happen.
I also have a 2003 convertible without the select drive and the ride is great. I just believe that the "tour" mode on the 2004 has to be as good. We have ordered a new switch, which will arrive in 5 days. In the meantime I will look up "shock stuffers". And yes ,it is a F55. Very low mileage.
Thanks for your help. If you think of anything else, please let me know.

JK
My DIC doesn't show any indication when I turn my switch. I honestly have no idea if mine works either.. I always figured it to be a placebo. Is there a way to actually check?
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by dangerz
My DIC doesn't show any indication when I turn my switch. I honestly have no idea if mine works either.. I always figured it to be a placebo. Is there a way to actually check?
I have the F55 and I can tell the difference. There aren't any messages displayed when you switch modes. The shock stuffers will cause the ride to be harsh not matter what the settings are.

Almost all complaints about F55 ride problems are because the stuffers were not removed. A few people have had leaking shocks, but that is about it.
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 02:29 PM
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I have an 03 AE which came standard with the F55.

Although there is no indicator light at all, to tell between Tour and Sport, the ride sensation is unmistakeable. In Tour mode its bouncy floaty in Sport mode, firm and not at all as bouncy.

Try going over a bumpy patch of road, once in Tour and then back over the same road on Sport. If you cannot feel the differance, something is wrong. I can tell on any most any road without looking about 80-90% of the time, what suspension mode I`m in.

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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 05:58 PM
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Well, a trip to the dealership ended with the shock stuffers being removed.
Thanks for all the advice from everyone. After I read about the shipping blocks, the yellow tag, etc. I looked under the car and there they were.
Unbelieveable. This car does not have 9,000 miles on it and is 5 years old. The previous owners didn't like to ride in it because of the harsh ride. I bought it rather cheap. Now it rides great. What a difference a shipping block makes.


Originally Posted by 50th@50
I have an 03 AE which came standard with the F55.

Although there is no indicator light at all, to tell between Tour and Sport, the ride sensation is unmistakeable. In Tour mode its bouncy floaty in Sport mode, firm and not at all as bouncy.

Try going over a bumpy patch of road, once in Tour and then back over the same road on Sport. If you cannot feel the differance, something is wrong. I can tell on any most any road without looking about 80-90% of the time, what suspension mode I`m in.

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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 06:18 PM
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How do the shock stuffers look? Maybe mine has the same problem. Is it possible for me to remove it without the dealership?
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by James K
Well, a trip to the dealership ended with the shock stuffers being removed.
Thanks for all the advice from everyone. After I read about the shipping blocks, the yellow tag, etc. I looked under the car and there they were.
Unbelieveable. This car does not have 9,000 miles on it and is 5 years old. The previous owners didn't like to ride in it because of the harsh ride. I bought it rather cheap. Now it rides great. What a difference a shipping block makes.

Congratulations! It always amazes me when we find yet another car that has gone this long without someone performing this simple check.

Have fun with your new car.
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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by dangerz
How do the shock stuffers look? Maybe mine has the same problem. Is it possible for me to remove it without the dealership?
I am not sure how to access them, but if they are there take the car to any dealership and make them remove them free of charge. This was supposed to be done by the dealership before it was delivered to you. Stuff like that is what the "delivery charge" is supposed to cover.
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Old Sep 10, 2009 | 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by BanditDude

Congratulations! It always amazes me when we find yet another car that has gone this long without someone performing this simple check.

Have fun with your new car.


The F55 system is really nice, unfortunately poor dealerships have ruined the feel of the system for many people.
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 04:55 PM
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I'm glad I looked up this post. I just removed the shock stuffers in my 03 with just over 40K on it and I have not been happy with the ride. I almost got another car but I like to take it out on the track. Nothing like sliding around the corners on a road course .
I hope I will notice a differance. Will try it out when the new set of brakes go on.
Thanks to everyone here and the forum for saving these posts.
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