Interesting thread. I have one too. I can't say I ever noticed it in decceleration though.

I was feeling a light vibration ~a year ago only on hard accelerations. Recently it started started to become a moderate vibration (~2500 - 4000 rpm's). I truly suspect it is the TT bushings. About 2 years ago I replaced my 2:73 gears with a 3:42's and added a 2800 stall. At the time I wasn't aware there was an TT alignment procedure in the service manual.

Does anyone know of a "surefire" way to prove it is the TT bushings before I tear into it?

 

Well crap I didnt hear of a torque tube alignment procedure? I've had my driveline out about 5 times now and never did anything but slide it in against the bellhousing and bolt down and done.

Well with my vibration I did the following. Took driveline out...
Had clutch checked for balance-within 2grams so checks out ok IMO
Replaced the pilot bearing-didnt see anything wrong with the one in it
Replaced the torque tube with a Z06 12mm with rubber bushings front and rear(replacing my 10mm with rubber front solid rear coupler)

Put back together and drove. I say the vibration is 80%-100% gone. Reason I say it may not cause I didnt notice the shifter vibrate at all on accell before but could be more in my head now. Went out in 3 vettes and 2 vibrated way way worse then mine and one was about the same. The one that was the same was mostly stock and the vibration in the shifter is on hard accel around 4k rpms it starts a little up through the RPM's. Not sure what changed or fixed it but I hope I got it
Gonna do the white out on the pulley though I checked for that to be tight and couldnt budge the bolt.

I also have a powerbond pulley FYI, mine is keyed for the callies dragonslayer crank in the car.
Also going to change the plugs probably tonight from the TR6 plugs gapped at .035 I think to TR55s gapped at .045 to see what happens there aswell.

Thanks for everyones input and look forward to a smooth driveline for us all

 

 

I don't have the manual in front of me but from what I recall......Basically the manual states that with the front pilot collar only "finger tight". Start the engine and let it idle for ~10 minutes. (I assume the TT rotates while in idle) to let everything warm up and align. Shut off the car and tighten the front collar bolt to the specified torque limit.

 

HUH? Front pilot collar? I'm trying to picture something you can loosen with the car completely together or even partial together? Someone got a picture of this? My car is back apart and figure i'll try it and report back what it does.

 

Fartpipe it's for Automatic transmission.


HAND-TIGHTEN the propeller shaft hub clamp bolt (1) until FINGER-TIGHT.



Remove and discard the propeller input shaft front bearing positioning bolts (M10 - 1.5 X 55 mm) from the driveline support assembly.
Install the two plastic plugs to the front of the driveline support assembly in place of the positioning bolts.



Install the driveline tunnel closeout panel. Refer to Driveline Tunnel Closeout Panel Replacement .
Remove the tie-off retainer from the LH muffler assembly.
Install the RH muffler assembly. Refer to Muffler Replacement - Right in Engine Exhaust.
Install the catalytic converters. Refer to Catalytic Converter Replacement in Engine Exhaust.
Install the rear tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
Lower the vehicle.
Connect the negative battery cable. Tighten
Tighten the negative battery cable bolt to 15 N·m (11 lb ft).

Program the transmitters. Refer to Transmitter Programming in Keyless Entry.

Important
The following steps MUST be performed in order to provide proper alignment of the propeller shaft hub, the propeller input shaft and the propeller input shaft front bearing.






Start and run the engine at idle until normal operating temperatures are reached. Idle or drive for at least 10 minutes.
Turn off the engine and allow the powertrain to cool to ROOM temperature.
Raise the vehicle.
Tighten the propeller shaft hub clamp bolt (1). Tighten
Tighten the propeller shaft hub clamp bolt to 125 N·m (93 lb ft).

 

Always check your plug wires too. I had an off/on vibration problem and one of my wires was burning on the header primary. It was the closest to the firewall on the driver's side. Couldn't see it till I completely removed it.

Dope

 

Not the problem. Good call, but not the problem.

 

Fastbird,

Any update on what your vibration is?

 

Nope. Hasn't shown up. I've driven the car a couple of times, wife has driven it once for extended highway driving, nothing abnormal noted.

 

That is strange! It isn't one of those cars that had someone that died in it is it??

 

I don't think it is because I bought if off the original owner, and handed him the check in person.

 

Aah, but you still don't know about that mistress, wife or that guy he rubbed out.

Anyway, hope whatever it was stays away for good. How has the care been driving? Turbos doing their thing ok? How is the newest family member?

 

The little one is great, thanks for asking!

As for the car, it's been pretty dang good. I'm honestly surprised that after a WOT blast I'm seeing ZERO smoke given the current state of the turbo's. Only issues I'm really dealing with is a hard start when cold (it's weird, bump the key and it'll crank, bump it a second time and it fires right up) and the prior mentioned idle flare that I think is a seal issue between the TB and Manifold as it looks like it's not sitting right.