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Dead battery......again....

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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 08:32 AM
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Default Dead battery......again....

About two weeks ago I went out to start the car and it was dead. Nothing, zip, zero, not a click. So, I took the battery in, had it tested and it was done. So I bought a new one and havent had a problem since. Well, I hadent started the car since last Sunday, when out to it last night and it was almost dead again. It tried to turn over this time though, so it wasnt completely dead.

So I am guess I have a short somewhere. Where in the hell do I begin to diagnose what the problem is? I have a friend who is a master electrician and I think he will lend me a hand if needed.
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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 01:02 PM
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Thanks 8!!! I hope that some people who have experianced this will write or point me to their thread that explains what they did to cure it.

I do have the post about it in the electrical thread bookmarked!
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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by kennya35
Thanks 8!!! I hope that some people who have experianced this will write or point me to their thread that explains what they did to cure it.

I do have the post about it in the electrical thread bookmarked!
This is not a "one size fits all" issue. Did you read the thread 8Vette7 directed you to? Starting with post #590? Follow Bill's suggestions so you can isolate the problem.
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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 08:15 PM
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When discussing electricity,,,when you say the word SHORT,,, it should bring to mind blown fuses, very hot wires, fire, burnt things. What your expierencing is a paracitic drain. Something is either being left ON, staying on when it is shut off or turing on after the car is shut down.

There are a few very common things that cause this issue:

Drivers seat motors
Drivers seat Lumbar pump
Passengers seat motors
Bose radio amp relay sticking on
Head light control module
Interior light being left on.
Radar detector, GPS, phone charger ect.... being left on
Under hood lght
Defective alternator diode allowing it to draw current whe the engine is off. (you can put the amp meter in series with the BATT terminal and read the current draw. It should be zero)


So,,,the only way to figure out if you have a parasitic drain is to test for it. You will need to get a DC AMP meter capable of measuring at least 10 amps. Connect it in SERIES with the battery/battery cable negative terminal.

The procedure is in the referenced post. Your optimum current draw is 2.5 ma or less. I normaly see around 2ma and sometimes 3 ma. With a 2ma draw,,,my car can sit idle with out a charger for 30-35 days and NOT have any issues starting the engine.





BC
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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
When discussing electricity,,,when you say the word SHORT,,, it should bring to mind blown fuses, very hot wires, fire, burnt things. What your expierencing is a paracitic drain. Something is either being left ON, staying on when it is shut off or turing on after the car is shut down.

There are a few very common things that cause this issue:

Drivers seat motors
Drivers seat Lumbar pump
Passengers seat motors
Bose radio amp relay sticking on
Head light control module
Interior light being left on.
Radar detector, GPS, phone charger ect.... being left on
Under hood lght
Defective alternator diode allowing it to draw current whe the engine is off. (you can put the amp meter in series with the BATT terminal and read the current draw. It should be zero)


So,,,the only way to figure out if you have a parasitic drain is to test for it. You will need to get a DC AMP meter capable of measuring at least 10 amps. Connect it in SERIES with the battery/battery cable negative terminal.

The procedure is in the referenced post. Your optimum current draw is 2.5 ma or less. I normaly see around 2ma and sometimes 3 ma. With a 2ma draw,,,my car can sit idle with out a charger for 30-35 days and NOT have any issues starting the engine.





BC
Bill, I think you mean to say 20 to 30 milliAmps. Your meter shows
.02 Amps which equals 20 mA. 20 to 30 mA is about what I remember for a load after the computers go into low draw mode.
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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by glennd
Bill, I think you mean to say 20 to 30 milliAmps. Your meter shows
.02 Amps which equals 20 mA. 20 to 30 mA is about what I remember for a load after the computers go into low draw mode.
Yea,,,your correct. Its been one of those days. thanks for the back up!
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Old Sep 12, 2009 | 10:04 AM
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Thanks for the info. If I can get my friend over today to check it I will post my results. Say that when we check it, it is drawing more, how do you pinpoint what it is?

I am NO good with electricity......
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Old Sep 12, 2009 | 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by kennya35
Thanks for the info. If I can get my friend over today to check it I will post my results. Say that when we check it, it is drawing more, how do you pinpoint what it is?

I am NO good with electricity......
Removing fuses one at a time for different systems.
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