Well I drove the car today on a round trip of 30 minutes and turned the car off and back on in between.

Then when i got home, i parked the car, went inside, and came back out about an hour later to move it to another spot.

well when i got in, i put the key in, all the dash lights came on when turned to on, the fuel pump did its usual buzzing noise, but when i turned the key all the way to start it, nothing! No sound, nothing.

I was also getting the reduced engine power message. I have seen this message years ago on my dash when i had oversized aftermarket wheels on the car. once i went back to normal size wheels, that went away.

So im at a loss right now. Any ideas what it might be?

and yes i tried starting in neutral, in gear, ebrake on, ebrake off, still nothing.

thanks in advance. i know someone will have an answer!

 

97

You need to read and post your DTCs.





The NO Crank issue is fairly common and is normaly the result of a bad starter solenoid. you need to do the basic High current connection checks at the battery starter, grounds. check the battery cables POS and NEG for clean tight connections on the battery and on the starter and engine block.

CODES:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.

Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

Here is very good site of DTC definitions:


http://www.gearchatter.com


Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!

Once you read the codes clear them ALL and monitor.

 

I'm with Bill on the code list needed. Did you see the security light in the IP Cluster flashing? Manual or Auto?

 

Bill, thank you very much for the step by step!! I just got back from disneyland so I wasnt able to respond earlier. I checked the codes this morning and this is what I have......

C1255H
U1176H
U1160H
B2282H
B2284H
B2283H
B2285H
U1064H
C2120H


I also swapped out the battery with a brand new one and checked the connections. No corrosion and everything was nice and tight. The car fired up fine. 20 minutes later I went out to go for a drive, and same issue, lights on, fuel pump on, no start.

How do I check if it is the starter solenoid? I would love to be able to replace some bad parts tomorrow.

thank you!

 

All of these DTCs are power to modules related:

B2282H
B2284H
B2283H
B2285H


All the U series DTCs re most likely related to the B series DTCs

So,,,you want to work on the C5 this weekend///???

I recommend removing and rebuilding your ignition switch. Your BCM and Ignition Switch needs to work properly to get the starter to crank.

You will need this post:

- http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html


If you rebuild the ignition switch and have the same issues,,I would suspect that the solenoid is failing. If it is,,,mechanically agitating it with the key in the START position (you will need assistance from a trusted friend) should get it to start.

If you RAP the solenoid and the starter starts,,,I would replace the solenoid. Drop the exhaust and then the starter. Replace the solenoid.

Bill

 

thanks for the response. well the rebuild looks a little too itense for me, so i will purchase a new one and see how it pans out.