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Looking for a Motor Mount DIY

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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 11:20 AM
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Default Looking for a Motor Mount DIY

I'd really like to get solid motor mounts. I found them for $40. However I don't want to pay a lot to have them put in. I was wondering if it is a difficult job. I would like to do it myself. I am by no means a mechanic, however I do consider myself to be a competent "Do it yourselfer". So I was wondering how to swap them. If I could see the procedure then I could determine if this is something I could do myself. Also, for those of you whove had this done, what did the labor cost you? Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 12:07 PM
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Why do you wnat to do this? Not the work, but change to solid mounts?
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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 12:40 PM
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Mainly, more responsive throttle and less wheel hop. Most people don't like the added vibration, but I like a more "raw" vehicle.
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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 12:50 PM
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Solid motor mounts won't do anything for throttle response, that is all in your tune. If you go to solid motor mounts then the weak link or sloppy link becomes the rear differential mount. Changing the motor mounts will not address wheel hop. As far as the install goes it isn't very hard. You basically need to remove pass and drivers side headers. Lift up the engine (watching the firewall for interference). Remove the old mounts and replace with new. I think the torque on the bolts is like 49ft/lbs (check that).
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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 01:57 PM
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Thanks for the input Nassy. I do plan on changing the rear mount as well. I don't feel confident doing a header install myself. So it seems that my best bet is wait until I get my headers, then have a professional install both at once.
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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 02:00 PM
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you need to recruit some better friends

I have learned most if not all C5/6 tech through friends/family
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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 2_99_c5s
Thanks for the input Nassy. I do plan on changing the rear mount as well. I don't feel confident doing a header install myself. So it seems that my best bet is wait until I get my headers, then have a professional install both at once.
If you're uncomfortable with trying the install yourself that's a good idea.

I think the biggest limiting factor for most people is a lack of proper tools. If you have the right tools for the job and patience, you can learn/do pretty much anything.

Best of luck
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by NassyVette
As far as the install goes it isn't very hard. You basically need to remove pass and drivers side headers. Lift up the engine (watching the firewall for interference). Remove the old mounts and replace with new. I think the torque on the bolts is like 49ft/lbs (check that).
Interesting thread. I may have a "weak" motor mount and am looking into the possibility of changing out the mounts myself.
I checked the shop manual and it talks about unbolting the shocks, pop the tie rod ends and other simple by time consuming
bolt remova itemsl. Then securing the engine and dropping the cross members.
Now if your solution of unbolting the mounts and raising the engine works, it will be much easier. Have you ever replaced
the mounts using this method?
Thanks
Jay B
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 09:10 PM
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mine were changed when stroker went in. used pfadt mounts. reason drive train shake. on a real good launch the stock mounts would allow motor to twist from the excessive torque and car would go left and make a rumbling type sound would ruin a good launch. happened 3 seperate times in about 30 launches. with pfadts havent had it happen yet 10 launches and im now running a 383 stroker with 10 per cent more torque as compared to the last setup 346.
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 10:01 PM
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Interesting story but I want to know how to install them, without changing the engine.
Any help will be appreciated.

Jay B
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 2_99_c5s
Mainly, more responsive throttle and less wheel hop. Most people don't like the added vibration, but I like a more "raw" vehicle.
I think I get what you mean by more throttle response, not really that the throttle will respond quicker, but rather that the energy will get transmitted to the drivetrain more efficiently and "feel" like better throttle response.

Oh, have you found solid tranny mounts or are you going to run polyurethane mounts? I've always opt'd for solid up front and poly in back. Dunno, just figure the poly mounts will hold the rear just fine with solid up front, but if there is chassis flex it wont strain the rear end.
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by paint it black vette
on a real good launch the stock mounts would allow motor to twist from the excessive torque and car would go left and make a rumbling type sound would ruin a good launch.
Interesting, can you explain what causes the motor to twist on your Corvette?

Originally Posted by manley845
Dunno, just figure the poly mounts will hold the rear just fine with solid up front, but if there is chassis flex it wont strain the rear end.
What would cause the flex?
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Eric D
Interesting, can you explain what causes the motor to twist on your Corvette?

What would cause the flex?
Hmmm, well, the rotating assembly spins one way and when acceleration takes place it results in the surrounding mass, i.e. engine block, to rotate in the opposite direction. Sorry, not the best explaination.

example, if the crank spins clockwise, then when you rev the engine you'll see the car lean counter-clockwise.

That gives a very rough idea of what forces are doing what. And when you have a moving force of any kind and a less powerful holding force, the holding force will be overcome. Thus the need for increased holding force, i.e. the solid motor mounts, or frame connectors, poly bushings and mounts, etc.

Not the best reply I'm sure, but hopefully it helps.
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 02:54 PM
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An old school trick was to use a short length of chain and bolt it to the driver side of the engine block and to the frame of the car. Only was effective if you could find just the right length of chain so that there was no slack at all.
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 03:02 PM
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Silly idea for anything usually driven on the street-probably shake every nut and bolt loose in no time too.
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by manley845
Hmmm, well, the rotating assembly spins one way and when acceleration takes place it results in the surrounding mass, i.e. engine block, to rotate in the opposite direction. Sorry, not the best explaination.

example, if the crank spins clockwise, then when you rev the engine you'll see the car lean counter-clockwise.

That gives a very rough idea of what forces are doing what. And when you have a moving force of any kind and a less powerful holding force, the holding force will be overcome. Thus the need for increased holding force, i.e. the solid motor mounts, or frame connectors, poly bushings and mounts, etc.

Not the best reply I'm sure, but hopefully it helps.
Well, I take it that you are new to Corvettes. Our Corvettes are different than most other cars on the road. They have a propshaft that rotates in a torque tube. These to parts allows the reacting torque a direct path back to the engine without going through the engine mounts. If you would like to learn more about this I would suggest reading this THREAD starting with post #15.
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Eric D
Well, I take it that you are new to Corvettes. Our Corvettes are different than most other cars on the road. They have a propshaft that rotates in a torque tube. These to parts allows the reacting torque a direct path back to the engine without going through the engine mounts. If you would like to learn more about this I would suggest reading this THREAD starting with post #15.
Nope, not new
I just thought you were a novice asking about a simple concept.

I realize that this forum is about Corvettes, but you asked in a manner that suggested that you had no idea as to how an engine could possibly cause "flex", so I responded in a very general manner. If you understand the workings of the Corvette, it seemed a better use of your time would have been to offer your knowledge upfront in order to help those reading this thread.
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 03:50 PM
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I replaced mine with the poly ones.

Lifting the engine did not give enough clearance. I also had to drop the front cradle a bit to get them out.

You will notice quite a bit more vibration with the stiffer mounts but you can notice a difference in power delivery.
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by molson
I replaced mine with the poly ones.

Lifting the engine did not give enough clearance. I also had to drop the front cradle a bit to get them out.

You will notice quite a bit more vibration with the stiffer mounts but you can notice a difference in power delivery.
Awesome

I think I'm gonna install poly or solid mounts
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by manley845
Nope, not new
I just thought you were a novice asking about a simple concept.

I realize that this forum is about Corvettes, but you asked in a manner that suggested that you had no idea as to how an engine could possibly cause "flex", so I responded in a very general manner. If you understand the workings of the Corvette, it seemed a better use of your time would have been to offer your knowledge upfront in order to help those reading this thread.
Manley, I apologues if you felt I had set you up. My reason for my response was to try and understand what you were saying.
If you take a look at molson’s post right after your response, “you can notice a difference in power delivery”. The fact of the matter, it will increase the amount of vibration into the vehicle with no benefit. If you took a ¼ mile run with stock engine mounts and then replaced them with poly mounts and ran the ¼ mile again you would see zero benefit in track times. I see a number of folks that will make statements like this about Corvettes. Unlike the “F body” mount changes on the Corvette will not gain you much if anything at all.
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