Column Lock issue's after 3rd recall modifications
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 945
Likes: 8
From: Olympia WA
Column Lock issue's after 3rd recall modifications
Good morning all:
I just purchased my 2004 Z06 about a month and half ago.
I just had the dealer do the 3rd and final recall on the steering column lock.
Afterwards I called the tech who completed it as the steering column would still lock (when you took the key out).
He mentioned that some of the recent jobs that he's done for the 3rd recall, the parts to remove the locking mechanism were not being shipped.
Also, since this 3rd recall was done, I am starting to get the "pull key, wait 10 seconds" message. I never had that before in the 4,000 miles I have put on the car.
So my question is:
I currently have been scheduled to go back in Oct 17th for them to remove the locking mechanism.
What is your opinion on this? Should I just tell him to go back to pre-3rd recall status (put the old harness in etc), and go aftermarket for the solution? My fear is: he'll remove the locking mechanism, but I'll be forever dealing with the "pull key, wait 10 seconds" message forever.
Sorry I am a newbie to the Vette thing, looking for some opinions with some good back ground and experience in this matter.
Thanks,
Andy
I just purchased my 2004 Z06 about a month and half ago.
I just had the dealer do the 3rd and final recall on the steering column lock.
Afterwards I called the tech who completed it as the steering column would still lock (when you took the key out).
He mentioned that some of the recent jobs that he's done for the 3rd recall, the parts to remove the locking mechanism were not being shipped.
Also, since this 3rd recall was done, I am starting to get the "pull key, wait 10 seconds" message. I never had that before in the 4,000 miles I have put on the car.
So my question is:
I currently have been scheduled to go back in Oct 17th for them to remove the locking mechanism.
What is your opinion on this? Should I just tell him to go back to pre-3rd recall status (put the old harness in etc), and go aftermarket for the solution? My fear is: he'll remove the locking mechanism, but I'll be forever dealing with the "pull key, wait 10 seconds" message forever.
Sorry I am a newbie to the Vette thing, looking for some opinions with some good back ground and experience in this matter.
Thanks,
Andy
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check the "sticky thread" also save yourself alot of heartache and buy a CLB...
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 945
Likes: 8
From: Olympia WA
Come on now... you don't even know me... I never go to the dealer for work. Its the scotch in me. I do everything myself 100% of the time and a big gear head.
In this case however itis FREE being a recall.
For once I wanted to try it out.
In this case however itis FREE being a recall.
For once I wanted to try it out.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 945
Likes: 8
From: Olympia WA
Will the CLB fix work with the 3rd recall already completed? Or do I need to go back to original as delivered condition on the car?
Andy
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 795
From: Longview Texas
I would go ahead and let the dealer remove the lockplate, so at least you do not have to deal with a locked column.
Then, you can either stay with the GM relay harness, or go with an aftermarket CLB relay. Either one should work.
Also, once you remove the lockplate so that the column lock actuator pin cannot get in a bind, the actuator will likely last longer, and you might not even need the bypass.
Then, you can either stay with the GM relay harness, or go with an aftermarket CLB relay. Either one should work.
Also, once you remove the lockplate so that the column lock actuator pin cannot get in a bind, the actuator will likely last longer, and you might not even need the bypass.
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 945
Likes: 8
From: Olympia WA
I would go ahead and let the dealer remove the lockplate, so at least you do not have to deal with a locked column.
Then, you can either stay with the GM relay harness, or go with an aftermarket CLB relay. Either one should work.
Also, once you remove the lockplate so that the column lock actuator pin cannot get in a bind, the actuator will likely last longer, and you might not even need the bypass.
Then, you can either stay with the GM relay harness, or go with an aftermarket CLB relay. Either one should work.
Also, once you remove the lockplate so that the column lock actuator pin cannot get in a bind, the actuator will likely last longer, and you might not even need the bypass.
I am thinking I will go with the CLB but remove the lockplate.
This sucks... I should have just ordered the CLB and been done with it. Oh well live and let learn. Thanks guys for the advice and your time.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,479
Likes: 36
I would go ahead and let the dealer remove the lockplate, so at least you do not have to deal with a locked column.
Then, you can either stay with the GM relay harness, or go with an aftermarket CLB relay. Either one should work.
Also, once you remove the lockplate so that the column lock actuator pin cannot get in a bind, the actuator will likely last longer, and you might not even need the bypass.
Then, you can either stay with the GM relay harness, or go with an aftermarket CLB relay. Either one should work.
Also, once you remove the lockplate so that the column lock actuator pin cannot get in a bind, the actuator will likely last longer, and you might not even need the bypass.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,895
Likes: 84
From: Darien IL
FWIW, I have had the column lock message a few times over the years. On my car it is a sign of low battery voltage at start-up. Dying battery one time, and sitting too long others. Charge it up and it goes away.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 945
Likes: 8
From: Olympia WA
Not sure when it was installed, it appears to be working just fine.
If it continues after the CLB install, I will probably change the battery out.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 945
Likes: 8
From: Olympia WA
Once you install the CLB you will have disconnected the actuator and the K Harness relay. When they were in place the column lock electronics required at least 12.4 volts to operate correctly yet you can start the car with as little as 12.2 volts. So before the CLB if the battery was low you were guaranteed to get the column lock symptoms and the fuel shutoff but still start the car.. With a CLB in place you will have most of the column lock electronics disconnected so you will not see the problem.
I checked the date of mfg of the battery (Aug 07). It is one of the premium Sears Platinum types. This is a very nice AGM battery.
However I don't know how the previous owner treated it.
I do think my battery volts is slightly low. I have been experimenting with how long I wait to turn the key on after the seat goes to the memory position, making sure the radar detector and cell phone charger are not turned on yet etc. I am also watching to see if I get the symptoms more as the outside temps drop.
All of the above leads me to believe that a replacement battery probably would help the situation, but if the CLB will rectify most of the symptoms, I may just hold on to the existing battery since it still starts the car like a champ. Why throw money out the window if not required.
Thanks so much for this information, this is exactly what I was wondering right now.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 945
Likes: 8
From: Olympia WA
The voltage readings I posted are what you read with a digital voltmeter connected directly across the battery posts with NO KEY in the ignition. The dash gages cannot give you an indication of the battery health. With the engine running they read the output voltage of the alternator. Good to know it charges but useless for battery condition. With the key on and engine off there are many C5 electrical circuits loading the battery including the dash gages and the reading you see means nothing with respect to battery health.
Actually I haven't been working with any voltages during my observations. More just experimenting with electrical loads before the key is turned to the on position and observing what are the results.
What I have been attempting to do, was try to give the battery a chance to recover slightly before turning the key to the on position. Batteries typically recover slightly after usage without a charge.
My theory on that is: I think it is do to a stratified voltage potential in the battery. A slight draw on the battery pulls power from the upper regions of the battery acid since this is the easiest path of least resistance. Once the draw is complete, I believe the acid is stratified then mixes to equalize (hence a recovery inside the battery). I could be wrong on this, but its my thought on the matter but I haven't researched this to see if my idea is correct or not.
I should also clarify to say that outside the battery, the voltage potential is a net sum of the conditions inside the battery since the unequal potentials have a common connection (the battery posts). I don't know if I worded this very well, but I tried. Again I could be wrong, but I am just exploring the idea with you.
Last edited by andrewdonald1; Oct 5, 2009 at 02:44 PM.
Racer
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 319
Likes: 5
From: Justin Texas
Getting It Unlocked
There are a number of really good threads on the benefits and how-to install the CLB. Not so much on "how to" get the column unlocked if it is already locked up. Mine is and, I've tried all the suggestions I could find on the forum and did a rain dance bacwards and threw salt over my left shoulder. It's still locked. This creates two issues for me. I am not inclined to let GM charge me an arm and leg to "not fix it" so I can then install the CLB. Even if I were, my car is in my garage, which is situated so that it would be very difficult, if not impossible, to get the car out and on a flat bed without being able to turn the wheels. Can anyone out there provide any guidance on removing, or unlocking, the locking mechanism? If a dealer can do it, it's not impossoble but, as I said, I don't see much commentary on the forum.
Thanks, in advance, for your valued assistance.
Les
Thanks, in advance, for your valued assistance.
Les
Racer
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 319
Likes: 5
From: Justin Texas
Chuck,
I took your advice and read David Gourno's post on how to unlock the column. It worked great, first time. Thank both you and David very much. Just another of many examples how forum members take care of each other.
Thanks again
Les
I took your advice and read David Gourno's post on how to unlock the column. It worked great, first time. Thank both you and David very much. Just another of many examples how forum members take care of each other.
Thanks again
Les
Here's a link to a procedure that has worked for most who have tried it:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ghlight=unlock
Some patience and persistence with it should get it unlocked. Once you do install the CLB immediately!!!
I have seen a writeup on how to remove the lock plate but you have to replace it with a special version (has no holes for the lock pin) since the plate itself serves several purposes. It contains the horn ring contacts, causes the turn signals to cancel and physically provides the spacing between components that are stacked ontop of one another on the column. I know that a few have used a Dremel or small die grinder to cut the lock pin off so that it could no longer lock.
I'll look for the plate removal thread and post it here if I can find it again.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ghlight=unlock
Some patience and persistence with it should get it unlocked. Once you do install the CLB immediately!!!
I have seen a writeup on how to remove the lock plate but you have to replace it with a special version (has no holes for the lock pin) since the plate itself serves several purposes. It contains the horn ring contacts, causes the turn signals to cancel and physically provides the spacing between components that are stacked ontop of one another on the column. I know that a few have used a Dremel or small die grinder to cut the lock pin off so that it could no longer lock.
I'll look for the plate removal thread and post it here if I can find it again.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 945
Likes: 8
From: Olympia WA
alright, I just installed the CLB from Corvettes of Houston.
Worked like a champ.
Now, I am thinking of removing the K harness.
Is there any good threads with pics of how to do this?
Worked like a champ.
Now, I am thinking of removing the K harness.
Is there any good threads with pics of how to do this?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 945
Likes: 8
From: Olympia WA
If you correctly installed the CLB you DID disconnect the K Harness. If your car had a K Harness ( and not all do):
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ight=k+harness
it was installed between the actuator and the connector that goes to the BCM. A correctly installed CLB disconnected the male connector of the K Harness from the female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash behind the drivers side knee bolster. If you connected the CLB to the female connector of the K Harness you have NOT installed it correctly. The female connector of the K harness is easily recognizeable since it has only two wire connected to it, a white wire and a purple wire and it is NOT attached to the bottom of the dash. If you plugged the CLB into that female connector the CLB is doing nothing but going along for the ride. The K Harness is still responding to the BCM lock and unlock signals.
If your car did NOT have a K Harness installed then the only male connector of the correct size and shape would have been from the actuator. When you disconnected it from the female connector attached to the bottom of the dash and plugged the CLB into that female connector you correctly installed the CLB.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ight=k+harness
it was installed between the actuator and the connector that goes to the BCM. A correctly installed CLB disconnected the male connector of the K Harness from the female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash behind the drivers side knee bolster. If you connected the CLB to the female connector of the K Harness you have NOT installed it correctly. The female connector of the K harness is easily recognizeable since it has only two wire connected to it, a white wire and a purple wire and it is NOT attached to the bottom of the dash. If you plugged the CLB into that female connector the CLB is doing nothing but going along for the ride. The K Harness is still responding to the BCM lock and unlock signals.
If your car did NOT have a K Harness installed then the only male connector of the correct size and shape would have been from the actuator. When you disconnected it from the female connector attached to the bottom of the dash and plugged the CLB into that female connector you correctly installed the CLB.
While its been a couple hours and a couple beers since I did it...
If KNOW I found the 4 wires (green, black, orange, etc), broke the connection and plugged it in.
Before I installed the CLB, the actuator worked and locked the steering wheel.
Now that I am done, the actuator does not work.
I wonder if they even installed the k harness like they said they did. I don't remember seeing any other goodies up there.
That being said, you have me paranoid, even though all works, I am going to open it up in the morning and confirm.
Thanks for your time.
Andy
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 945
Likes: 8
From: Olympia WA
If you correctly installed the CLB you DID disconnect the K Harness. If your car had a K Harness ( and not all do):
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ight=k+harness
it was installed between the actuator and the connector that goes to the BCM. A correctly installed CLB disconnected the male connector of the K Harness from the female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash behind the drivers side knee bolster. If you connected the CLB to the female connector of the K Harness you have NOT installed it correctly. The female connector of the K harness is easily recognizeable since it has only two wire connected to it, a white wire and a purple wire and it is NOT attached to the bottom of the dash. If you plugged the CLB into that female connector the CLB is doing nothing but going along for the ride. The K Harness is still responding to the BCM lock and unlock signals.
If your car did NOT have a K Harness installed then the only male connector of the correct size and shape would have been from the actuator. When you disconnected it from the female connector attached to the bottom of the dash and plugged the CLB into that female connector you correctly installed the CLB.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ight=k+harness
it was installed between the actuator and the connector that goes to the BCM. A correctly installed CLB disconnected the male connector of the K Harness from the female connector that is attached to the bottom of the dash behind the drivers side knee bolster. If you connected the CLB to the female connector of the K Harness you have NOT installed it correctly. The female connector of the K harness is easily recognizeable since it has only two wire connected to it, a white wire and a purple wire and it is NOT attached to the bottom of the dash. If you plugged the CLB into that female connector the CLB is doing nothing but going along for the ride. The K Harness is still responding to the BCM lock and unlock signals.
If your car did NOT have a K Harness installed then the only male connector of the correct size and shape would have been from the actuator. When you disconnected it from the female connector attached to the bottom of the dash and plugged the CLB into that female connector you correctly installed the CLB.
Sure enough, the K harness was indeed installed, and I did indeed connect up to the female side of the K harness. I wasn't paying enough attention to what I was doing.
That being said, I just removed the K harness and attached the CLB to the BCM side where it should have been all of the time.
You just kept me out of trouble.
Thanks for taking a few minutes of your busy day to help a fellow Vette owner.
Andy