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How intrusive should active handling be

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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 07:35 AM
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Default How intrusive should active handling be

I picked up an 01 Z06 last week and have had several other C5's over the years. I do not recall active handling being this intrusive.

It seems to easily engage when cornering. It may be in my head but it seems more so when making right handers than left.
I tried competitive driving and I don't notice a difference.

It is intrusive enough that it is disrupting my canyon carving but I do not want to turn the system completely off as i recall doing a 180 in a previous Z i owned when doing that.

What is the deal here??
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 07:53 AM
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On a secondary note is there any way to turn AH off but leave TC on. My Z breaks the wheels lost with even new tires and warmed up shifting from 2-3 let alone 1-2 and i would like TC

AH just seems way too intrusive - I have no error messages or anything - why does it come on so easily
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 08:22 AM
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Depends on your driving skill.

The more "intrusive" AH is the more the drivers skill needs to be improved.

Drivers with better skill, AH does not come on at all with spirited driving.

When AH comes on, take it as a suggestion, that there is a better way to drive.

Smooth is fast. Sliding though corners, or jerking the steering wheel to tight in a corner is not.
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
Depends on your driving skill.

The more "intrusive" AH is the more the drivers skill needs to be improved.

Drivers with better skill, AH does not come on at all with spirited driving.

When AH comes on, take it as a suggestion, that there is a better way to drive.

Smooth is fast. Sliding though corners, or jerking the steering wheel to tight in a corner is not.
I guess my concern is that I do not recall it being like this in my prior two C5's and it for sure was not in my C6

Is there a chance the yaw sensors are giving improper readings to the system. Also I was looking at my tires and the fronts are 10mm taller than stock, could this be confusing the computer. The rears are the original side and the fronts are one series (10mm taller than stock). The car has been lowered max on stock bolts

Maybe it is in my head but it really jsut seems to engage too easily. enough that it is disrupting my driving. I have done HDPE days at road atlanta and am not the next coming of Schumacher but not a rookie either.

Any other thoughts??
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 09:35 AM
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The yaw sensor needs checking?

or flush your brake fluid and put on new brake pads.

Some times with age the wheel sensors wiring gets worn of shorts out, causing AH to come on.

last check your bearings. Bearings that are shot or just about shot will have AH issus as well.
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
The yaw sensor needs checking?

or flush your brake fluid and put on new brake pads.

Some times with age the wheel sensors wiring gets worn of shorts out, causing AH to come on.

last check your bearings. Bearings that are shot or just about shot will have AH issus as well.
The brake pads appear to be brand new - not sure how new the fluid is but the pads are very thick - what can I do here to eliminate that

With the sensors how do I check them - Should it throw a trouble code or something - My concern is if i take it to the dealer they will bend me over and I doubt an independent has much experience with this system

Bearings seem fine - no noise and car is tight and vibration free

Just got this car - hope it is not turning into a money pit already
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 11:25 AM
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Jack your car and put it on stands

Grab each wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock.

push in at 12 and pull out at 6

in and out. If you feel movement, your bearings MAY be going.

Now the 2001s AH is differnt then the 2002s.

Remember to start the car, let it warm up for almost a min.

then drive off.

Dont park on hills or any grade. and if at all possible drive straight for the first 20-50 feet. This all assures that AH is warmed up and ready to go
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 11:32 AM
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I don't have a Z06 but I know on my vert you can put it into "Competition Mode" but this only disables traction control.

Summary
There are 3 modes
1) Traction Control Off, Active handling Off
2) Traction Control On, Active handling On
3) Competitive Driving = Traction Control Off, Active Handling On

Traction Control (TCS)
This limits wheel spin by working the rear brakes and reducing engine power.
TCS comes on automatically when you start the car.
If it engages (i.e. if you start spinning the wheels and it kicks in to reduce spin), the DIC shows TRACTION SYS ACTIVE (momentarily)
To toggle TCS on or off, press the Active Handling button on the center console briefly. This will also toggle the Active handling System in conjunction with TCS. The DIC will briefly display "TRAC/ACT HNDLG -ON" or "TRAC/ACT HNDLG -OFF".
If it is OFF, then the skidding-corvette-rear-end light (TCS light on the instrument panel) is ON.

Active Handling System
Active Handling helps maintain directional control by selectively applying any one of the vehicles brakes.
Active Handling comes on automatically when you start the car.
If it engages to regain vehicle control, the DIC says "ACTIVE HANDLING" (briefly).
If you turn the Active Handling System Off, the traction control system will also be turned off. It is toggled on or off the same way the TCS system is toggled (see above)
If it is OFF, then the skidding-corvette-rear-end light (TCS light on the instrument panel) is ON.

Competition Mode:
Competitive Driving mode allows the driver to have full control of the rear wheels while the Active Handling system helps steer the vehicle by selective brake application.
When on, the DIC displays "COMPETITIVE DRIVING"
To turn on Competition Mode, press the Active Handling button on the center console for more than 5 seconds.
To turn it off, press the button briefly.
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 10:42 PM
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Car definitely has an issue as again on the way home even if i tried in a left hand turn it would not come on, in right handers it came on fairly easily. Then when i stopped in my garage it said service active handling and service vehicle soon

I took it out to dinner and no messages??


What can I do now besides get bent over at the dealer. It is something with right hand turns, outside of that it is fine?????
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
Now the 2001s AH is differnt then the 2002s.
No, 2001 was the first year of the Gen2 Active Handling (when it became std equipment on all C5s).

98-00 was Gen1
01-04 was Gen2.
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by robertpel9
Car definitely has an issue as again on the way home even if i tried in a left hand turn it would not come on, in right handers it came on fairly easily. Then when i stopped in my garage it said service active handling and service vehicle soon

I took it out to dinner and no messages??


What can I do now besides get bent over at the dealer. It is something with right hand turns, outside of that it is fine?????
Since you got the Service AH message, check your codes, as it can probably point you to the suspect sensor. (Steering wheel position and yaw rate sensors being the usual suspects for an AH-only code).

Anything in the wheel speed sensors, bearings, EBTCM etc will usually toss numerous more messages....service ABS, TC, AH, etc.


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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 12:05 PM
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OK Here are the codes

TCS: C1288H

IPC: U1160H

LDC4: B2282H
B2284H
U1064H

RDCM: B2283H
B2285H
1064H


What does all this mean??
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by robertpel9
OK Here are the codes

TCS: C1288H

IPC: U1160H

LDC4: B2282H
B2284H
U1064H

RDCM: B2283H
B2285H
1064H


What does all this mean??
C1228 RR Excessive Wheel Speed Variation

Directly from the service manual...

A possible cause of this DTC is electrical noise on the wheel speed sensor harness wiring. Electrical noise could result from the wheel speed sensor wires being routed too close to high energy ignition system components, such as spark plug wires.

A summary of how to test it...

Disconnect the wheel speed sensor. The resistance should be between 850-1350 ohms. If that passes, connect it and spin the wheel while on jack stands. The AC voltage across the sensor should measure more than 100 mV. If either fail, you may need to replace the sensor.

However, the H code suggests history. Maybe you could try cleaning and re-connecting the sensor. It may just be a poor connection.
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 06:01 PM
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C1288 is a steering wheel position sensor code.


That is quite different than C1228 explained above.


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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by robertpel9

Also I was looking at my tires and the fronts are 10mm taller than stock, could this be confusing the computer. The rears are the original side and the fronts are one series (10mm taller than stock).
I remember reading another post that said that if your tire sizes are changed they need to stay within a certain percentage front to rear. You may be within the acceptable percentage but when you start driving aggressively it may be easier to cross the acceptable percentage of difference in rotation between front and rear because your fronts are taller than stock. If you do a search regarding tire or wheel size you should find out more info about what I am talking about.
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Y2Kvert4me
C1288 is a steering wheel position sensor code.


That is quite different than C1228 explained above.




It is 1288 - is this as simple as getting my wheel perfectly centered
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by robertpel9
It is 1288 - is this as simple as getting my wheel perfectly centered
I have a 1287 and a 1288. Took a lot of help to diagnose the problem and eventually worked out that I need a steering wheel position sensor replaced.

My symptoms are that after maybe 20 miles the AH caption will start kicking in and eventually it trips completely.
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