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Okay Okay I know, Corvette owners are classy, filthy rich, better than everyone in the whole wide world, and will only use pretty intakes. Let's be "hypothetical" here (so I don't get yelled at we will call it hypothetical). Hypothetically speaking, what if I was to connect some proper diameter tubing to the throttle body (giving proper placement for the maf) and run the tubing to 1 of 2 places. 1. Through the shroud and mounted under the car like the Halltech, or 2. Run two tubes with a Y type splitter to both air dams. At the end of the tubing I would bracket on high flow air filters; hypothetically speaking that is. Shouldn't I expect very close hp gains to high priced intakes? Are the materials, angles, inner texture, and diameter used that vital to hp gains? I see dragsters make cold air intakes all the time with dryer tubing or heat bendable aluminum and some simple bracketing hardware from local hardware stores. Please, any engineers, opinionated speculators, or angry "pretty intake" owners give me your opinions or expertise. I've been "hypothetically" wanting to make a home made intake for track use. Please set me straight if needed...hypothetically. :mad :bs :nono:
Tom Hall has been running what he proudly calls the Home Depot intake and he ran in the 10.6 range :eek: . Didn't look pretty ......... but it got the job done. :yesnod:
I run a K/N conical (7 in. long) connected directly to the MAF and it seems to function quite well. I have opened up the area around the "fog" lights (Dremel'd this out) and opened up the shroud below the conical. I have had to constrict the shroud airflow as too much air seems to show a slight surge at 40-45 mph. Cutting down the airflow up around the neck of the conical has solved the problem. However, running with the surge condition at WOT did not seem to effect the ET (12.73 @ 109).
Got the conical off my F-150, which came off my '95 Mustang, which came off my '92 Mustang. I believe in reuse!
I bet this works as good as the $300-500 dollar pretty ones. Filter cost $49 five years ago.
All I did was buy the K&N off-road filter for $50, cut my shroud, but small enough so that the filter covers it and removed the stock airbox. $50 for a nice intake.
Sounds good to me, as long as the air can get to the MAF your in buisness. I do not think the coating inside the air bridges and piping make a noticable difference anyway. Have fun! :D
Experimentation, and "doing it yourself", is what the hot rodding hobby is all about. Let us know how it comes out. And while your at it, make it look pretty. ;)
I did notice a slight surge at 40-45 mph when the hole in the shroud was the same size as the K/N (about 30% of the filter was open to the lower air through the shroud and the rest of the filter was open to the air coming from above the shroud). I have fashioned a plate of plastic that has a bunch of holes in it to cut down on the volume of air from the shroud. This removed the surge, now I am experimenting with how big of area that I can have in the shroud before surging occurs. I have experimented with a piece of duct tape to custom size the hole before a piece of plastic is cut. I noticed that if you cover the hole near the filter input (nearest to MAF) the surge goes away. So I am looking at that route.
This is fun. Since whatever we come up with, it will be cheap and dirty. I can take digital pictures if anyone is interested.
I read somewhere in this forum on the K/N setup they sell that requires you cutting in the shroud for air. They have you cut slits in the shroud. I imagine the same problem I am having with surging is why they put slits instead of one large hole.
This is all very intersting. Can you guys define "surge" for me. Why is this bad, or good for that matter? I would love to see pictures of some of the custom intakes out there. Placing a filter on the engine bay side of the shroud with a variety of opening techniques seems to be the trend in this thread. What about running 2 smaller filters right behind the air dams while installing zo6 type screens? The air dam screens can easily be covered over in wet conditions. Would the lenghth of air travel be a problem or disadvantage as compared to air access from a shroud cut out?
Another option would be to place the filter infront of the shroud with a cut out, then run tubing from the air dams "up" to the filter. This would provide air from 3 different angles which could be benificial when using the larger area K&N filters. Still all theory...opinions please. :smash:
Actually what you've described in both cases has basically been done. A more advanced version of your first suggestion is essentially the new VaraRam system except the filter is in the stock location and air ducts, supposedly designed to ram air into the main filter box, extend from each of the fog light openings.
The other suggestion is mentioned above where a member modified a Vortex unit by running ducting from the fog light openings (air dams) to the Vortex box.
Your thinking is along the same lines as those here who venture "outside the box". A good thing. :cheers:
Instead of smooth power, the engine seems to "jump". You don't really see a change in the rpm's or any other thing, but you can feel it, like someone nudging you from the rear. It is only noticeable at certain narrow (only one in my case) rpm ranges. Not sure if it is hurtful. If you ever had a Mustang with an open element filter, the same effect was felt, since in this case, the fan wash would interfere with the open element airflow and cause, I guess, wrong readings by the MAF. It was solved easily by installing a wall of sorts between the filter and the fan. I think the same thing is happening here maybe, except it is by the massive amount of air coming up from the bottom.
My own feelings on your other ideas is to keep it simple and make the path from the filter to the MAF as short as possible. Having all the long pipes, etc. just seem to be adding to much length (loss?) to the path to the MAF.
Really, the idea I have and others have used is no different than the Donaldson, etc., type filters. They are flat and mine is conical. And damn, they are expensive. I bet their total area of filtering is not different than the K/N I and others are using. And mine cost only $50. I did have to buy a “baby” K/N for the air pipe that is normally connected to the stock box, but it is a no brainer and less than $5. I call the setup Daddy and baby K/N’s.
I’ll get my son to post some pictures of the setup as I have it when he comes over. I do not know how to do it. Or I can e-mail you or anyone the setup. It is still evolving and is fun and cheap to play with. The more simple the better it has to be, is my motto!
I've been looking at the VaraRam intake for a few months and wondered where the filter(s) was located..thanks for the info. I'm excited to get started fooling around. I will try my best to make it look good also. Let's see those pics if possible..thanks
RWhite emailed me these pictures of his setup, and said I could post them here.
Also, Untouchable00 said he has a similar setup. I haven't seen pictures of his, though.
I'm thinking about doing something similar to my C5 when I get it, but I might put some PVC between the filter and MAF to try to reduce turbulence. I don't know if it will help anything, but maybe it will help shed some light on the surging problem.