Electrical gremlins draining my battery
#21
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
If he had the wrong alternator as the orgional one and the parts place matched it up with the same one,,,,,,,same issue. Its a thought. My guess is the PCM isnt happy.
#22
Tech Contributor
Perhaps....I would like to see the result of a jumper wire connected to the alt connector pin D, and alt. receptacle pin D........isolating the L&F terminal feed.
#23
Advanced
Thread Starter
Member Since: Feb 2006
Location: Melbourne FL
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So far as I know the alternator I replaced was the original, as the car only had 17K miles on it when I purchased it 2 years ago. I will get the part numbers from both when I get home from work.
#25
Advanced
Thread Starter
Member Since: Feb 2006
Location: Melbourne FL
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
With a jumper connected to the D pin on the connector, the current draw goes back to 1.7 amps.
Numbers on the original Valeo GM alternator are:
10246634
254192613
S45 AN 01
Numbers on the original Valeo GM alternator are:
10246634
254192613
S45 AN 01
#26
lucky likes to point out when i show my electrical ignorance. i dont fully understand how everything works.
BUT. when i am diagnosing a draw, i put my volt meter in series between the negative battery terminal and (-) battery cable, and start unplugging stuff until i find it.
good luck, hang in there.
BUT. when i am diagnosing a draw, i put my volt meter in series between the negative battery terminal and (-) battery cable, and start unplugging stuff until i find it.
good luck, hang in there.
Last edited by CoreyZ06; 10-31-2009 at 01:36 PM. Reason: mis-stated.
#27
Tech Contributor
Ok, to be clear. You have the main wire disconnected from the alternator, and the control circuit connector unpluged, with a jumper just between pin D of the plug and alt receptacle?
#28
Advanced
Thread Starter
Member Since: Feb 2006
Location: Melbourne FL
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Any ideas? I am down to looking at the BCM or main computer as possible problems.
#29
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Yes, main power lead disconnected, still have all wires off of the B+ terminal as well, and ammeter inline on the negative terminal of the battery. Soon as I jump the D pin, it goes to 1.7 amps on the meter.
Any ideas? I am down to looking at the BCM or main computer as possible problems.
Any ideas? I am down to looking at the BCM or main computer as possible problems.
BC
#31
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Oct 2007
Location: Kinston North Carolina
Posts: 2,382
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
9 Posts
The BCM will NOT be the issue! The PCM may be. I will check my car tomorrow and see what the RESISTANCE reading on pin D of the alternator wiring connector that goes to the PCM should read. I will also see if there is any voltage on that pin when the ignition is OFF.
BC
BC
#32
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Went back and looked at my schematic and.......Pin D comes from the BATTERY and goes directly to the regulator. If your drawing current from the battery with JUST pin D connected,,,,Bud,,,your alternator is bad. Again, I will do some resistance readings tomorrow and see what pin D in the alternator reads to ground.
That will be a good point to start with. Read what your Pin D in the alternator reads to ground when the alternator is completely disconnected electrically.
BC
That will be a good point to start with. Read what your Pin D in the alternator reads to ground when the alternator is completely disconnected electrically.
BC
#33
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I think we posted at the same time or close to it!
#34
Tech Contributor
I would like to see more isolation. Remove the positive cable from the battery, connect a 18 gauge jumper from pin D of the alternator receptacle and the positive battery post.
#35
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Pin D on the ALTERNATOR reads 145.5K ohms (145,500 ohms) to engine ground.
Pin D on the harness side has battery voltage 9as indicated by the schematic.
bC
Pin D on the harness side has battery voltage 9as indicated by the schematic.
bC
#36
Advanced
Thread Starter
Member Since: Feb 2006
Location: Melbourne FL
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
With everything connected except the alternator controller, I see 1.94 amps draw across the pin D connector and the alternator.
I see this on BOTH original and new alternators. No variance whatsoever on any reading I have taken so far. I cannot believe that both alternators have gone bad in the exact same manner and to the exact same degree, down to the hundredth amp.
#37
Advanced
Thread Starter
Member Since: Feb 2006
Location: Melbourne FL
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would like to see more isolation. Remove the positive cable from the battery, connect a 18 gauge jumper from pin D of the alternator receptacle and the positive battery post.
#38
Tech Contributor
#39
Advanced
Thread Starter
Member Since: Feb 2006
Location: Melbourne FL
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, I officially acknowledge that I am an electrical idiot. I need to RTFM for my test meter, and realize that I should switch the red lead to the other side port.
I am now going to rerun every test, after I finish beating my head on the desk.
I am now going to rerun every test, after I finish beating my head on the desk.