I have a 2000 that won't start it will turn over. Instrument cluster does not come on for over a couple of seconds. Plugged in a different cluster and it did the same thing. Any ideas???

 

What's the history here? , strange to replace the IPC for a no start condition......any codes? Security light? Messages? Fuel pressure?

 

Is your alternator plugged in?

 

You posted this same question in C5 General the night before last but didn't respond to the questions asked.

 

This could be the result of a couple of issues. Please read and post your DTCs. That will help pin point the issue.

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!


IF,,you have a ton of DTC,,,clear them and then try to restart the car and if it doesnt start, read and post the DTCs that come back.

BC

 

Im having the same problem, hopefully you can help. I have an 01 C5. I have had the car 3 years and never had an issue but in the last month, ive replaced the water pump, starter and ignition relay.

Series of events:

Belts were squeaking out of control, took it to the shop, water pump was leaking coolant onto the belts, replaced water pump

Next week, car is having issues starting. 3 of out 5 times i would try to start, it would just make the sound like it was out of gas trying to start it. I was advised the ingition relay wasnt firing and had no power and the starter was on its last leg so i replaced the both, fixed both issues.

Two days later, i have my current problem. When i go to crank the car, the instrument cluster just blinks and the gauges levers attempt to move but dont. When i turn the key, it make the responds as it would if is the battery was dead, it does nothing. So i keep turning the key on and off, on and off to try and get it cranked. sometimes i can hear the relay clicking back and forth like its trying to come one. The gauges try to move forward but they just keep bouncing unless it finally clicks on. Sometimes the instrument panel totally blacks out and does nothing like the car is totally dead with no power.

after about 3 minutes of this, i will turn the key like normal and every thing is fine. instrument cluster lights up, gauges go all the way over and come back and the car starts like it was brand new, battery shows 14 volts. Once it started, runs perfect

Next time i cut the car off, same issues. Im scared to drive it because i afraid ill get some where and it wont start at all and ill be stuck.

When i turn the key, if the gauges go all the way over and back, i know it will start. When it turn the key and the gauges dont move, i know it wont.

I switched out the ignition relay again hoping that was it but still does the same thing. I ran the codes and it shows this:

28 TCS C1214 H C

I cleared all the codes, tried to start the car again and this is the only code that comes up.

I researched the code and it leads to traction control and the brake module. What does that have to do with starting? I know this has to be an electrial issue but it so inconsistent. Sometimes the car is cold, sometimes its hot, still does it. Or sometimes, i can crank it up 10 times in a row no issue or i can try to crank it 10 times and it will take me 10 minutes before i leave the parking lot!

I really hope you guys can help before i get raped at the repair shop, thanks again guys.

Paul
214.578.5490
paul@paulbrownjr.com

 

i clicked on the link you sent above and it said my code meant this:

C1214 Solenoid Valve Relay Contact or Coil Circuit Open

That sounds more like the right direction because i think its an electrical issue but not where to start on this, gonna keep researching, any of you vette geniuses chime in any time

 

i found this article on the site, anyone else having the same issue might find it helpful. Im going to attempt some of the tips mentioned.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-ckt-open.html


The article notes that when this error occurs, it shuts down the entire system for protection for the entire igntion cycle. That would explain why i get a different response every time i turn the key. Im gonna keep reading, ill keep you posted

 

have you found anything yet?

 

im about 95% sure its the EBCM. I followed the info on this site and absfixer.com. I took out my EBCM to send to them earlier today. My starting issue has gone away since i took it out, but i have other codes now pertaining to the EBCM being removed but i expected that. The instrument cluster blinked a few times, but nothing like before, thats why im only 95% sure but everything is pointing that way. I sure hope this fixes it

 

looks like my 5% is still alive and well. Ever since i took out the ECBM, it starts 80% of the time but its alot better than it was. I wonder if its still having issues because the ECBM is totally removed. I noticed that when its having issues starting, i hear a clicking noise coming from the fuse panel under the passengers side floor board. There is only an ignition fuse, not a relay so im back to the drawing board. Im still going to send off the EBCM, the saga continues

 

I'm confused. What leads you to believe a starting issue is associated with an EBCM throwing a C1214 code?

 

what led me to that conclusion was a post i read by another member, trussme, ( who seems to know his stuff ) that was explaining the EBCM and its function. It mentioned that when the the solenoid fails, the (c1214 code), it disables most of the cars functions for the entire ignition cylce to prevent any errors on the road. Thats what my car is doing. When i turn the key, it either starts up fine or does nothing at all. The
c1214 code is the only error i showed so i figured it must be that.

I dont know squat about engines so im just trying to do everything i can to avoid taking it to the stealership!

here is that link

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-ckt-open.html

 

You mis-read what he said. When the EBTCM has a error DTC, the EBTCM MODULE shuts down the Active Handling, Anti-Lock and Traction Control functions to prevent incorrect computer controlled braking.

It should not effect the PCM/BCM or other module operation.

Your ignition issue could possibly be caused by dirty / bunt ignition switch contacts. Read this post and it will provide you some troubleshooting steps to see if that is the issue.

- http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html

BC

 

thanks for the response, do you to recommend that i do not send off my EBCM to be rebuilt? I was only doing it to fix the starting issue but if that wont fix it, i still have the issue. Im about the to read the link you just sent

 

If,,,,,your getting improper "HOT in RUN and ACC or HOT in Start and Run" voltage out of the ignition switch, It can and will most likely have an effect on EBTCM operation. I recommend finding and fixing the main issue and see if you still have an issue with the EBTCM once everything else is working normally.

This is a schematic of a 2001 EBTCM power and ground set up. As you can see, there are TWO power sources. 'Hot at all times" and "Hot In RUN" Turn the key to RUN and read the voltages to ground from the test points on top of the fuse. The correct reading is full battery voltage.



All I have in my picture file is a 2001 EBTCM.

BC

 

my car is a 2001 so thats perfect. Im gonna try to disect this, most of it is way over my head cause im not a car guy but i guess im becoming one the hard way! Thanks again bill