Ever rebuilt your alternator???
Thank you,
Sully





Man,,,,I hope mine never goes bad.


What is wrong with yours that it needs rebuilding/repair???
Bill,
it's the car that has the burnt BATT wire near the alt. The starter solenoid wasn't loose and it is something within the alt that is causing the short. Something has broken loose inside it and sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. Now I need to rebuild it.
Sully
here's the best info I have found so far! This explains most everything and why the alts from autozone and such won't work correctly for ours cars:
Some Info that will help you understand the C5 Alternator
Credit goes to – Evil-Twin (Bill) Retired Corvette engineer
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1285146 (See Post #2)
Starting about June last year I had intermittent 'Charge System Fault' messages on the DIC. Some were accompanied by 'Low Voltage' warnings but the voltage stayed steady and soon recovered. In Dec, the alternator finally failed after multiple other message - 'Traction Control System Fault', 'Stability Control System Fault'.
The alternator was repalced, but the 'Charge System Fault' message still happened. I took it to the dealer who insisted the new alternator was also fault and repalced under repair. I picked it up this morning, drove 100yds and got a 'Charge System Fault' message again.
Anyone else had/ getting this message?
Any ideas on what this could be? I was wondering if Grounding through the engine may be a cause. Aluminum can oxidize and cause bad electrical contact. anyone had other Ground faults?
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
From ET-
It has been well documented here, and your dealer unfortunately has no clue...Very typical of many dealerships.... GM spent two years trying to ram this New Alternator down pre 00 C5's throats. Supposedly they have finally wrote a re flash program to address this issue, but then they said they had a cure for column lock issue too.
Your original alternator was a French made Valeo with a 110 amp output. The new alternator is made in Mexico and is a 140 amp alternator... your 99 PCM thinks the alternator is 110 amps. it communicates constantly with the PCM. Without a re flash of the PCM, you will be getting this constant charging system fault message. I have suggested to many, to have their original French made Valeo 110 amp alternator rebuilt by a competent re builder. This alternator has special switching not found on similar alternators.
here is how the C5 alternator works, I ve posted this many times:
The L-terminal circuit from the generator is a discrete circuit (a discrete circuit has no splices and only one source and destination) into the PCM. The PCM applies ignition voltage to the generator L-terminal circuit. A small amount of current flows from this circuit through the generator windings to ground to create a magnetic field which starts the generator process. When the generator is at operating speed and producing voltage, a solid state switch for the L-terminal circuit in the generator opens and the PCM detects that the initial startup current flow has stopped.
The PCM expects to detect low voltage on the L-terminal circuit prior to the generator rotating at operating speed and conversely expects the circuit to be at ignition voltage potential when the generator is operational. When the PCM detects a fault (circuit shorted to ground, or circuit shorted to voltage), the Driver Information Center will display Charging System Fault.
The generator has an input to the PCM called the F Terminal to indicate the percentage of total capacity that the generator is producing. This signal is detected by the PCM as a duty cycle from the generator and displayed on the scan tool as a percentage. The PCM can monitor the generators output under all conditions to determine if it is functioning normally.
When there is low demand from the electrical system on the generator, a low duty cycle percentage will be displayed. As more accessory load is placed on the generator, the duty cycle output detected by the PCM will approach 100 percent. A normally functioning generating system will never reach 100 percent as indicated on the scan tool.
The L and F terminals are the red and Grey
I hope this helps make understanding this alternator interaction with the PCM.
Good Luck
Bill aka Evil-Twin





Bill,
it's the car that has the burnt BATT wire near the alt. The starter solenoid wasn't loose and it is something within the alt that is causing the short. Something has broken loose inside it and sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. Now I need to rebuild it.
Sully
If it were me, I would take it to a starter/alternator shop and ask them how much it would cost to rebuild it. It may not actually cot that much. The post that connects to the module inside sounds like its loose.
Bill
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I am gonna try to locate a good electrical shop around here tomorrow. Good luck with the Z, hope you get that starter repaired.
Sully






So,,,,,,,,,,,I reinstall the intake and all the other stuff and drag started it. Had the wife pull it with the Jeep. Damn thing cranked right up!!!


So,,,,,I took it out for a DRIVE!
Man it felt good to wail on it. It went right to 6850 without even a whimper. So, now I have to rip the entire drive train out of it. Wish me luck!

Good luck on your alternator.
Bill
anyone else have any ideas???
Sully





anyone else have any ideas???
Sully
It all; depends on how familiar the shop is on resourcing repair parts. I told my guy I needed a valeo regulator and he said,,,,hang on while i check the CATALOGUE.... So the parts must be out there somewhere.
He quoted me $100= change for the PARTS.
then LABOR to repair it. 
Like I said before,,,,Hope mine never breaks.
It took about a week for him to get the parts, he did a nice job, tore it apart and cleaned it all up, my cost for the re-build was $150. When I get home tonight I can look up the name of the shop if you like, His shop is in San Jose, CA. If you cant get anyone in your area to rebuild it you could ship to him.
It took about a week for him to get the parts, he did a nice job, tore it apart and cleaned it all up, my cost for the re-build was $150. When I get home tonight I can look up the name of the shop if you like, His shop is in San Jose, CA. If you cant get anyone in your area to rebuild it you could ship to him.













