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Window works sometimes?!?

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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 08:50 PM
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Default Window works sometimes?!?

Hey everybody, I have an issue and I'm hoping somebody knows where I should start!

Last Wednesday I rolled down the drivers side window and it make a ratchety sound and seemed to drop REALLY fast. It goes up normal, but went down again the same way. I tried the passenger side and it wouldn't move. I could hear the click in the pass door and the lights slightly dim but no movement. When I got home I went to look at it to try to figure it out but everything was working normal again!?!

Well, tonight I went to roll down my drivers window - SAME THING! Drivers makes noise but goes down, passenger side wont move?!

And yes I tried both window switches and neither one will roll down the passenger side. Also, may be totally unrelated but my memory mirror on the drivers side doesn't go back to the right position about 4 out of 5 times. Do you thinks my button cluster is going bad, or is the window problem internal?

Thanks in advance for all input!!
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 11:19 AM
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Most likely, the window regulator motor is stuck. If you can hear the relay click when you push the button, the window is getting power, and it is probably not the switch.
If you heard roughness, remove the door panel and inspect the drive cables to make sure they are not frayed. If the cables are good, the motor is probably stuck.
You may be able to tap on the motor while pushing the button and free it up, but if not, you will probably need to replace the window regulator assembly.

Since there are no limit switches to stop the motor, it simply runs up against the stops until the motor stalls. I think that over time the gears wear, and when you drive the window up against the stops, it jams the drive mechanism and sticks.
I found that when you run the window up, if you bump it down a fraction of an inch, it unloads the drive gears, and reduces the chances it will stick.

Sometimes there is an internal motor problem, like the brushes are worn, or you hit a dead spot on the rotor, but most motors I have opened were still clean inside.

I have had almost brand new motors stick, so I don't think it is usually a problem with the motor being worn out. I had a new regulator stick after a couple of months. When I got it freed up, I started bumping the window down a bit, and it has not stuck since then.

While you are inspecting the motor and drive cables, check the two nylon inserts where the cables enter the gearbox and make sure they have not broken. These are spring loaded and guide the cables into the drive housing, but the small ends can break off, slide down the cable, and jam the gears.

Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Nov 10, 2009 at 11:27 AM.
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by TEXHAWK0
Most likely, the window regulator motor is stuck. If you can hear the relay click when you push the button, the window is getting power, and it is probably not the switch.
If you heard roughness, remove the door panel and inspect the drive cables to make sure they are not frayed. If the cables are good, the motor is probably stuck.
You may be able to tap on the motor while pushing the button and free it up, but if not, you will probably need to replace the window regulator assembly.

Since there are no limit switches to stop the motor, it simply runs up against the stops until the motor stalls. I think that over time the gears wear, and when you drive the window up against the stops, it jams the drive mechanism and sticks.
I found that when you run the window up, if you bump it down a fraction of an inch, it unloads the drive gears, and reduces the chances it will stick.

Sometimes there is an internal motor problem, like the brushes are worn, or you hit a dead spot on the rotor, but most motors I have opened were still clean inside.

I have had almost brand new motors stick, so I don't think it is usually a problem with the motor being worn out. I had a new regulator stick after a couple of months. When I got it freed up, I started bumping the window down a bit, and it has not stuck since then.

While you are inspecting the motor and drive cables, check the two nylon inserts where the cables enter the gearbox and make sure they have not broken. These are spring loaded and guide the cables into the drive housing, but the small ends can break off, slide down the cable, and jam the gears.
Cool, thanks for the information! So do you think the fact that both time the drivers side made noise the passenger side wouldn't work at the same time was just a coincidence?
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by forceU2tap
Cool, thanks for the information! So do you think the fact that both time the drivers side made noise the passenger side wouldn't work at the same time was just a coincidence?
Probably just a coincidence.
I have had both of mine quit working at the same time, but only the driver side made a noise. The other one just stuck.
I have replaced both window regulator assemblies on my 2004 Z06. A month or so later, the passenger side stuck again. I was able to get it unstuck, and have been using the technique of bumping the window down instead of leaving it in the full up position. I can hit the down and then up buttons quickly enough that the glass only drops about 1/16", so it still seals in the weatherstrip fine.

I would still look inside the door and make sure there are not any frayed cables first. You may be able to remove the rubber plugs in the bottom of the door and see enough to keep from having to remove the door panel.

Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Nov 10, 2009 at 07:44 PM.
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by TEXHAWK0
Probably just a coincidence.
I have had both of mine quit working at the same time, but only the driver side made a noise. The other one just stuck.
I have replaced both window regulator assemblies on my 2004 Z06. A month or so later, the passenger side stuck again. I was able to get it unstuck, and have been using the technique of bumping the window down instead of leaving it in the full up position. I can hit the down and then up buttons quickly enough that the glass only drops about 1/16", so it still seals in the weatherstrip fine.

I would still look inside the door and make sure there are not any frayed cables first. You may be able to remove the rubber plugs in the bottom of the door and see enough to keep from having to remove the door panel.
I'll work on that later this week. Thanks again!!
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