The factory bolts work perfect for me so far.

 

The bolt problem I posted about in post #11, the bolt the guy was using didn't have enough threads. He states he contacted Comp Cams and they told him they usually supply bolts with their kit.

After reading this thread up to this point I find it strange that someone had a problem with the OEM bolts. This is definitely something to watch out for.

 

I misunderstood the problem. While I have the extra bolts, I may thread them and then cut off some at the bottom. Now to work on the install. I have a vise, but it is only a 4" so it is not big enough to use. I had the C-clamp mounted in the vise like a press, but it just doesn't seem to be stable enough. Thanks.

 

You can pick up an arbor press at harbor freight cheap.

 

Coincidentally, I got a $55 gift card for HF for Christmas, and their 1 ton press is $49.99. Destiny?

 

Back from the past...

I am doing this install now. The new kit comes with new bolts so the "not enough thread" issue is moot. Wish I had the tools the OP has...I don't. I used a punch to drive the old bearings out, works great. To install them I used an old cheeseball 1 Ton mechanical press from Harbor freight; cave man stuff, but it was very easy. Neither of these operations require much force.

Also, the new kit comes with "Installation Washers" that will control the depth to which the new bearings are pressed.

 

Hate to bring an old dead thread back to life, but does anyone know the torque specs for the mounting bolts that secure the rocker arms to the head ?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

22 ft lbs. Search for this.. there are lots of opinions on how to properly do it. Service manual requires TDC to torque the rockers.

 

Installed mine with a large vise not much force was needed took about 1hr my stock rocker bolts would not fit in the comp cam trunion the 8mm head was too large for the hole! had to use the supplied allen head bolts from kit!

 

To elaborate on that, you don't want to be tightening the bolts with the rockers under tension from the valve springs, as you're tightening into an aluminum thread. Make sure the rockers that your working on have the valve completely closed.

 

Oh hell, thanks for the headsup! I hadn't thought of that.

So how do I go about getting the motor to safely rotate in order to make sure each individual valve is completely closed as I go through installing each rocker ...?

EDIT : I knew or rather figured I would have to turn the motor by hand. Does this sound about right as to what I'm going to have to do..

"Remove the crankshaft balancer bolt with a 24mm socket and then attach a specialty three-arm balancer remover. Since the LS7 dry sump oil pump has more depth than a standard Gen III or IV pump a 1-inch longer bolt is required to attach the puller and remove the balancer. After removing the balancer, install the factory bolt back in the crank socket to allow you to rotate the engine"

That was something I found for a different project. Could I just turn the crankshaft at the balancer with a socket and be good to go ?

 

There is a procedure in your service manual. It explains in detail how to rotate the engine from #1 TDC, and which rockers to torque down in sequence.

 

Damn, I only have the owners manual.. Any tips as to where I might be able to download a service manual on-line ?

I need this info BAD. I'm without a car until I get this trunion upgrade done.
If anyone has the C6 Z06 service manual and can email me pictures of the specific pages that shows in detail how to rotate the engine from #1 TDC and which rockers to torque down like "lucky" mentioned, I will literally Pay $$ instantly via paypal for this information!

 

You said "C6 Z06" ... but you're in the C5 Forum .. ?

Anyway, the rocker arm torque sequence should be the same as I believe the firing order is the same. Here's the page from the C5 manual. You can send $1M USD to my PayPal account.

Edit: Original link to the service manual page bad ... updated with a different working link.

 

You don't need to pull the balancer, or anything like that, to turn the engine over. A socket and ratchet or breaker bar wont go on to the balancer bolt, due to the steering rack in the way, so simply use a 24 MM box/open end combination wrench.

 

God I'm an idiot sometimes. Im really not new to the online forum world, I just got so worked up that I thought I found what I was looking for that I didn't even check to makesure it was for the correct model corvette

Alright I'm a man of my word, PM me your paypal info


Really can't thank you guys enough for all the info. I'm sure everyone is shaking their heads saying "what is this guy thinking doing this on his own" Lol . I'm great at following directions (to the point that I'm pretty OCD). So long as I have all the info I should be good to go <- I'll check back in when its all said and done to either give my success or my horror story

Seems interesting though, nobody else in this thread had mentioned the TDC scenario when discussing their trunion swaps/upgrades (although it does make complete sense). Is this just a known thing that nobody else was talking about, or are people doing what it sounds like which is unbolting, replacing the trunions, and bolting everything back together? And I just ordered the complete C6 Service manual on DVD <- hopefully its everything the guy claims it to be. I had one prior for my EXT and it was the legit service manual in digital format

 

I think there is a broad assumption, that one who would undertake such a task, would have the minimum knowledge to perform it correctly. Yes, there are some knuckleheads the torque that rockers down on an open valve. It's risky, and just poor practice.....especially with a small diameter bolt, and aluminum heads. No offense, but based on your comments, it sounds like you are over your head here....with or without a service manual. See if you can solicit a local experienced forum member for some guidance, in exchange for dinner and a few beers.

Good luck.

 

I just want to add that the rocker arm bolts screw in 12 to 13 turns before they get to the point of full torque ... so there is LOTS of thread engagement. That's probably why guys can install the rocker arms without the lifter on the base circle and not have any real issues. But as said, it's best to follow the correct installation procedure laid out in the Service Manual.

 

If there is an AutoZone nearby, go get their 45 deg offset head box end wrench. It has a 7/8" on one end, and a 15/16" on the other. 15/16" is basically the same size as 24 mm. I used this wrench from AutoZone and it worked very well ... the offset was just right to get on the crank bolt and clear everything around it.

 

To each their own.....not for me.