I'm not recommending it be done that way ... but saying why it probably is done by some without any ramifications. Should always follow the Service Manual procedures to be safe.

 

When I did the job, I wasn't taking any chances. It only takes a few minutes to get the engine in the #1 TDC position, and after that, another minute to rotate the crank one full turn to get #6 TDC.

 

I'd love it if I could find someone local to lend a hand, but since I don't know anyone on here I'm not exactly sure how I could make that happen.

But it seems pretty straight forward. Remove rockers, press the old trunions out, assemble and properly press in the new trunion setups, rotate the motor to TDC for #1, install the rocker to 22ft-lbs or torque, then rotate from there installing each corresponding rockers. After that, throw on the Valve covers, and call it good

+1, the devil is in the details as they say. I went ahead and ordered the service manual so that I could double check everything <- though it sounds like all bases have been covered. After this I'll stick to what I know, paint and body work

Took a look at it the other night and I thought the same thing. Luckily I already have that very wrench so I'm good to go

 

NOTE! If you follow the procedure from the shop manual, as "Zee06" posted in post #34, you only have to rotate the engine one time. Initially, you get #1 cyl. at its TDC and do 8 of the rockers, rotate the engine one turn, with #6 cyl. at its TDC, then do the remaining 8 rockers. You did pick up on this, correct?

 

Correct, i saw that on post #34 like you mentioned. I find TDC for #1 and do the first 8, and a full 360-degree rotation from there and then do the remaining 8

Thanks again for checking though. You guys have been a huge help and probly saved me from making a mistake. Just glad to have the service manual coming in incase I need to do anything else in the future

 

So I've finally dove in and started this project. In case anyone is just getting up to speed, yup I'm new to wrenching on a vette and to this extent motors in general <- I come from a background of paint and body work, not a ton of mechanical work. I've yet to come up against something I couldn't figureout or learn, so I decided to tackle this project myself. For someone new, let me just say, having the service manual for reference (for me) has been HUGE. Now that all thats out of the way and hopefully I don't get flamed too much..

What's the best way (In You Opinion) to find TDC on the #1 cylinder. I've read on different forums all sorts of methods involving straws to know the piston height & covering ones thumb over the spark plug hole to tell when its on the compression stroke as you should feel the pressure (opposed to an exhaust stroke)

A member on another forum said "Most accurate way is to use a tdc stop that screws into the # 1 spark plug hole. Once you screw in the stop slowly rotate (by hand) the engine until the piston comes up against the stop. mark the balancer. then rotate the engine in the opposite direction until it again hits the stops. mark the balance. Halfway between the two mark is tdc. Even if your balancer had slipped you can use the new mark as your zero".

So whats the verdict, anyone know the best way to find TDC on the #1 cylinder for a C6-Z06. Again obviously I'm a simple newb so I apologize for the simplistic question. Just would rather be safe than sorry and I know no better place to turn to for Z06 advice

Thanks for any help you can give me Guys!

 

Why do you want to find TDC so accurately? TDCish is close enough to re-install the rockers...

I would just take the plugs out for ease of turning, and get #1 piston roughly to the top with both valves shut. Roughly is good enough.

 

I really wasn't trying to be overly precise, I was just trying to makesure I learned the correct way so I didn't ef anything up lol. But close to TDC seems like it would be fine as long as it does the same job of not providing any unwanted pressur/tension on the rockers when installing them. Looking at my valve terrain with the covers off I was wondering if there was another way I could go about it, and then I found another member mention this method on another LS forum

"i am surprised no one mentioned the intake closing exhaust opening method. Basically when you have the valve covers off look for when the intake starts to close after peak lift then adjust the the exhaust rocker to 22ft lbs. then when the exhaust begins to open the valve adjust the intake rocker to 22ft lbs. you do this for each cylinder. you can hand tighten each down at first so they work. then do the procedure."

- Does it really matter if I pop all the rockers off all at once, or should I go in sequence to when each is free of any tension/pressure?

Is this some of that stock side-play or "back and forth wobble" you were referring to. Curious to hear how your Z is doing since the Comp Trunion kit install has had some time and mileage put on it

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJKMR..._order&list=UL

 

If you are just installing the trunnion bearing kit, I assume you are not going to remove the spark plugs (?). If not, then one way to find TDC on the compression stroke for Cyl #1 is to turn the crankshaft CW until the intake valve opens and then closes. Watch the intake rocker arm for Cyl #1 while turning the crankshaft. When the intake valve closes (piston will be near BDC), then rotate the crankshaft another 180 degrees CW. That will put the piston close to TDC on the compression stroke.

If you have the spark plug removed, you should be able to sue a flash light and see the top of the piston very close to the spark plug hole.

 

No, it doesn't matter if you pop all the rockers off at once. I'd first find TDc on the compression stroke on Cyl #1, then pop all the rockers off.

Then install the trunnion upgrade kit and reinstall all the rockers, then torque down the first 8 rockers per the Service manual, then rotate the crank 360 degrees and torque the other 8.

 

This is a good plan.

You shouldn't loose too much of your mind on the the re-installation, though. I don't know if you've actually changed the bearings over yet, but if not, that's where I would pay the most attention. Its a fairly straight forward procedure, but if you don't pay attention to the details, you might get into trouble. If you understand everything discussed above, you shouldn't have any probs.

The movement shown in the video isnt what I was refering to, but was also present. If you draw a line between the pushrod end and the valve tip end, I could actually "roll" the arm around it. It would also twist around the bolt going through it. Big-time loosy-goosy

As far as rocker performance goes, I can't really tell any difference. This is more of a "quality improvement" mod, and as the original bearings were still doin the job, there was really no change to notice. The quality of these babies is much higher than the OEM pieces, IMHO. Its nice to know they're in there.

Good luck with your project!

 

Since you're going to remove the valve covers to do this job, get them off, then using a box/open end 24 MM wrench, rotate the engine until you see that both #1 valves are closed, as well as the other 6 that you're going to work on with the enging in that position, and have at it. After you've R&Red those 8 rockers, stick a piece of masking tape on the balancer as a marker, rotate the engine 1 revolution clockwise (as viewed fron the front) and the other 8 valves should be in the closed position. R&R them, and you're done.....

 

Wow, that seems like a lot ... way more than I had on my stock rocker arms on my '02 Z06, which I measured to be around 0.025" side-to-side play.

After I installed the Comp Cams Trunnion Kit, the rocker arm side-to-side play went down to 0.010 to 0.015".