im new to the site so bare with me. i have a c5 stock. had to change the battery and the alt. did it myself big wow. now the starter is just clicking. it didnt do it before the change. could now the starter be bad or just maybe a regulator or something. help this car is starting to nickle and dime me and its only mine when it needs fixed which my wife hates when i say that.

 

What's the history? What led you to changing the battery and alternator? Battery cables tight and free of corrosion? Have you checked the connections at the starter? Do you have 12 volts at the starter solenoid when trying to start?

 

im new to the site so bare with me.

Hold on, no use in taking your clothes off. Try rechecking the battery cables for tightness and make sure that the rubber around the terminal ends isn't pinched between the cable and the battery post. Check the connection of the red battery cable at the starter. Sometimes it will get loose and if left it will cause the bakelite insulation around the post in the starter to charcoal and the post will turn when you try to tighten it.
Also some have tapped on the starter while someone turns the key. It may have stopped in a spot where the contact is not so good. It may very well be that a starter is in your future. By the way, that bad starter connection I discussed will cause the symptoms to make you change the battery and alternator. Intermittent voltage readings and charging problems. That connection must be tight and clean as well as the battery.

 

battery only reading 9-10 v alt. running only at 11-12 v im having someone look at it that is smaller than me that can fit under the car

 

Definitely check the starter connection.

 

the car has 119k i fix one thing and two pop up. found that the wrong battery was install to begin with back in oct. monitoring the alt. when running would bouce between 10-12v the battery would never go over 12.5 but would go up or down between 10-12v. installed the right battery, new alt. alt reads 14+ but the battery is only 12 at running. starter clicks and then starts when it wants to.

 

You can check the starter connection from above. Follow the red battery cable down and wiggle the connection at the starter. You may have to remove the battery box to actually get a wrench in there to tighten. Definitely remove the battery connection before putting a wrench on the starter connection. You'll get a dead short from 12v battery post to ground if the wrench touches a metal part, such as exhaust.

 

Exactly the symptoms you get when the starter connection is loose or fried. Check it and post back.

 

is there a volt reg. somewhere? if it is the starter is there an easy way to r and r it. it looks like the exhaust is in the way

 

thanks for the info. im going to like this site. get back later with what i find.

 

The solenoid can be replaced if the post is loose. I believe Bill Curlee has a sticky on it at the top. Search solenoid replace if it turns out to be burned. The nut may just be loose. Try that first. Again, disconnect the battery before you try to tighten the nut.

 

My mistake, don't see the sticky. I did read a thread on changing the solenoid only somewhere. The starter and solenoid are usually changed as an assembly, but it can be done. How did the red wire and solenoid post look?

 

There’s no sticky but numerous post that discusses the solenoid, its testing and replacement. Yes it is replaceable if it needs to be replaced. Its about $50. It requires starter removal. Starter removal requires exhaust system removal.

onehightitan

Hope you saved the parts you replaced. They were most likely still good.

If in doubt,,,,have that battery properly tested and charged.

As mentioned above,,,the battery terminals MUST be clean and tight. The PROPER battery terminal bolt torque is 11 ft/lbs. If the terminals are NOT properly tightened,,,it will cause the same charging issues and starter issues your seeing.

The alternator has a built in regulator and is controlled by the Power Train Control Module (PCM) There’s a large BATT connection on the back of the alternator under a rubber boot. That connection runs down to the starter solenoid. From there it goes up to the battery.

The connection on the solenoid MUST be clean and tight!! That’s the FIRST thing to check after the battery terminals!!!
You can easily "TEST" that circuit. Connect a 10 gage wire from the battery POSITIVE terminal to the alternator BATT terminal. If your charging symptoms resolve,,,that wiring path is compromised and needs to be repaired.

If your going to work on your car, you need a Digital Volt Ohm Amp meter. There not all that expensive and can save you a TON of money.

Bill

 

Just to say it again as 65GGvert said, Do Not Forget, that the starter connection is electrically hot unless you disconnect the battery first. You don't need to see a huge spark, possible welded wrench and/or battery exploding.