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Walked out in the garage this morning and there is a puddle of water coming from under the C5. It's got 110k on it so I wouldn't be surprised if it's the waterpump.
I did some calling around for pricing - Boy what variations!
Dealership $327 (discounted 20%) New
Local Corvette parts house $298 (discounted 7%) New
NAPA $179 New "TFW"
Oriely $181 New "Master Pro"
Oriely $150 Rebuilt "Cordone"
Autozone $135 Rebuilt "Duralast"
I won't buy a rebuilt one, but would like to hear opinions on the other three (the Dealership and parts house are both Delco). Does anyone have experience with the TFW and Master Pro brands?
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by Paladin62
Walked out in the garage this morning and there is a puddle of water coming from under the C5. It's got 110k on it so I wouldn't be surprised if it's the waterpump.
I did some calling around for pricing - Boy what variations!
Dealership $327 (discounted 20%) New
Local Corvette parts house $298 (discounted 7%) New
NAPA $179 New "TFW"
Oriely $181 New "Master Pro"
Oriely $150 Rebuilt "Cordone"
Autozone $135 Rebuilt "Duralast"
I won't buy a rebuilt one, but would like to hear opinions on the other three (the Dealership and parts house are both Delco). Does anyone have experience with the TFW and Master Pro brands?
Thanks
Clay
No I don't, however Rock-Auto has new Delco's for $135.89
I replaced the pump on my 98 with a CORDONE and it worked fantastic! Very straight forward repair. Good time to renew the coolant and if your a fan of a cooler thermostat, now’s a good time to get one of those also. I would get a 178-180 deg stat.
There are THREE different pumps early 97-98 mid year 99-2003 and late 2004
When I replaced mine I before I changed the pump, I flushed ALL the coolant out of the engine until I got clean water out of the cooling system. (If it's winter in your area, you may not be able to do that)
You could remove the pump and use a wet and dry vac and suck as much old coolant out of the block as you can from the block pump flange openings. A lot will come out.
On the refill, I use a complete gallon of DEXCOOL and then dilute to the correct freeze point with distilled water.
I may get flamed, but I just installed the Duralast one from Autozone. Its got a lifetime guarantee and so far performs fine!
I don't know why people are so afraid of remanufactured parts either....They generally get more personal attention and quality control than brand new parts.
The extra cost of buying new usually means your paying for a new casting (housing), the one part of a water pump that rarely fails or becomes unserviceable.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by Y2Kvert4me
I don't know why people are so afraid of remanufactured parts either....They generally get more personal attention and quality control than brand new parts.
The extra cost of buying new usually means your paying for a new casting (housing), the one part of a water pump that rarely fails or becomes unserviceable.
In my previous life I worked in aftermarket auto parts for a number of years. The quality of a rebuilt (or the sometimes more popular marketing term: "remanufactured") part is STRICTLY dependant on the company selling/rebuilding them, so unless your familiar with which ones are crap, i.e. high return rates, it's crap shoot for the average Joe. I personally don't recall EVER having a return (due to a defect) item that was new, vs "rolling the dice" on the various rebuilders.
Having said that, the one rebuilder company that we had the fewest returns on was Delco. Very rare.
Remember too: the labor to swap a defective part is the same the second time around, and rebuilders do NOT cover labor nor towing charges if you get stranded along side the road.
In my previous life I worked in aftermarket auto parts for a number of years. The quality of a rebuilt (or the sometimes more popular marketing term: "remanufactured") part is STRICTLY dependant on the company selling/rebuilding them, so unless your familiar with which ones are crap, i.e. high return rates, it's crap shoot for the average Joe. I personally don't recall EVER having a return (due to a defect) item that was new, vs "rolling the dice" on the various rebuilders.
Having said that, the one rebuilder company that we had the fewest returns on was Delco. Very rare.
Remember too: the labor to swap a defective part is the same the second time around, and rebuilders do NOT cover labor nor towing charges if you get stranded along side the road.
OK the pump was shot...pulled it off and drove to the closest parts store (Autozone). The "rebuilt" Duralast pump turned out to be new...price was $135.00 with a lifetime warranty...went on like warm butter...the car is my wife's "shut up" car and I don't show it...so OEM is not a factor...Thanks for all the advise.
Since I changed the pump, my heater is not putting out warm air. The engine is running cooler now than it did before the waterpump replacement (around 190). When I did the replacement, I allowed the engine to run for 15 - 20 minutes with the resovoir fill cap off to let the air out. I used the OEM thermostat. I also noticed that the air on the passenger side is warmer than the air on the drivers side. Strange!!
Any ideas?
I read the post of "1moretime" of his heater problem and it was suggested that he check the vaccumm lines under the battery...I haven't looked but doubt that could be my problem. My heater was working fine before the waterpump replacement... I have found that on occassion if you turn the car off and restart, I get heat on both sides...Still looking for a solution...