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Differential Replacement 2001 6 speed

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Old Dec 17, 2009 | 09:15 PM
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Default Differential Replacement 2001 6 speed

Noise in the rear end is definitly out of the differential. Sounds like a bad bearing or possibly Gears going out. I changed the lube, and at 130K miles, the fluid looked like it was never changed. Any recommendations in the Atlanta area (North) for an honest shop to remove and repair?

If I were 10 years younger and did not work 60 hours per week, I would think about doing this myself, but it really looks like a major job to spend a few days under the car on jack stands.

Thanks for any recommendations
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 04:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Z1bEST
Noise in the rear end is definitly out of the differential. Sounds like a bad bearing or possibly Gears going out. I changed the lube, and at 130K miles, the fluid looked like it was never changed. Any recommendations in the Atlanta area (North) for an honest shop to remove and repair?

If I were 10 years younger and did not work 60 hours per week, I would think about doing this myself, but it really looks like a major job to spend a few days under the car on jack stands.

Thanks for any recommendations
Best bet would be to order a new one fro dealer or RPM Transmissions, depending on what your plans are.

RPM could recommend a shop in your area to do change over.
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 05:07 AM
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I am in Knoxville, don't know how far you want to go.
I can take care of it for you though.

PM me if you are interested.
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 09:31 AM
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Not as bad as it looks, its about a 4-5 hour tops your first time.
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Corvette Don
Not as bad as it looks, its about a 4-5 hour tops your first time.
If you are replacing it with a new one, sure.

If you want to rebuild it, you need special tools to properly set it up.

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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Corvette Don
Not as bad as it looks, its about a 4-5 hour tops your first time.
No, No it took England Green 5 hours to do mine and it was not his first time.
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by craig04c5
No, No it took England Green 5 hours to do mine and it was not his first time.
Everybody works at different speeds, etc ...

Alot depends on the condition and any other items noted during the swap.

Leaking seals, lots of dirt build-up, axle seals, etc....

I can drop the whole drivetrain in a couple of hours taking my time.

The motor takes longer cause you gotta disconnect and drain lots of fluid etc ...

Typically, I drain the tranny and differential when I remove them as it's easier to it while it's up on the lift, especially if you're going to be seperating the differential and transmission.

Don't forget a new seal between the tranny and differential.
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 06:42 AM
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Everything I have read states the entire drive line must be removed as a single unit when removing the differential. Just want to make sure this is correct.

If the differential could be removed without dropping the transmission and drive line, would appear the job would be much easier.

Anyway - my direction is to order from a good rebuilder and have someone local remove and replace.
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 07:04 AM
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You don't have to drop out the drive line but you do need to remove the rear cradle and lower the drive line. Its not bad if you have a place to work and don't need to rush. I bought a unit from DTE and installed it when I did mine. If you are staying stock, you can also get a brand new Z06 unit from GM.
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 08:10 AM
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Lower the Drive Line? Do you mean that a R&R does not require me to disconnect the bell housing from the engine? I can remove the cradle and lower enough to remove the differential without taking disconnecting everything else? I understand that care must be taken to not allow the engine not to contact the firewall, but I did not undertstand the job could be completed without disconnecting and removing the Torque Tube. Or am I trying to make this too simple?

I do not have access to a lift, but do have air tools and there is no rush.

Car is stock and will remain stock. What is DTE?
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Z1bEST
Lower the Drive Line? Do you mean that a R&R does not require me to disconnect the bell housing from the engine? I can remove the cradle and lower enough to remove the differential without taking disconnecting everything else? I understand that care must be taken to not allow the engine not to contact the firewall, but I did not undertstand the job could be completed without disconnecting and removing the Torque Tube. Or am I trying to make this too simple?

I do not have access to a lift, but do have air tools and there is no rush.

Car is stock and will remain stock. What is DTE?
Correct. Lower and remove cradle. Support drive line while removing cradle. Then support tranny and remove differential. Put it back together. Need to disconnect air coupler but its pretty straight forward. Careful on air tools, there is a major warning on using them for the cradle nuts, i.e., hand tighten only. I did my clutch on wood blocks (don't trust jack stands) so it can be done. I won't give my age but I am not exactly a spring chicken either

Check the post by AllThrottleandNoBottle with photo's. You will get the general idea.

Link

Last edited by vettenuts; Dec 22, 2009 at 08:38 AM.
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 01:43 PM
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by craig04c5
No, No it took England Green 5 hours to do mine and it was not his first time.
That must of been a long time ago. I'd have to kick him, prod him, and throw stuff if it took Stephen that long now. We can both do them pretty quick now. If we tag team a car it is very quick.

Jason
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Cajundude@EnglandGreen
That must of been a long time ago. I'd have to kick him, prod him, and throw stuff if it took Stephen that long now. We can both do them pretty quick now. If we tag team a car it is very quick.

Jason
It was just him doing it. I helped some. We were not really in a hurry. He even let me clean up a mess made by a broken CV joint.
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