things i learned while replacing plastic endlinks
anyway, i degress, if you go with the hotchkis endlnks, the nut is it comes with is a locking nut, hence you will get a work-out the end of the bolt has a 5 mm allen that you must use to keep the nut from turning in its place.
i found at ace hardware, pure synthetic silicon grease, it is the sticky kind that hotchkis sends out with all of their sway bars to use on the bushings. do not use any type of petroleum grease. you will squeek.
i did not replace the bushings, for a couple of reasons. first, they looked to be in good shape, second no one local had them in stock. hence, i took them off cleaned them and soaked them in brake fluid for a bit to recondition the rubber. then, i wiped them down, and used the above mentioned silcone to lube them.
oh yes, take the tires off, it makes the job easier.
here are the torque specs.
merry christmas.
Front sway bar insulator brackets: 43 lb-ft
Front sway bar link nuts: 53 lb-ft
Rear sway bar insulator bracket bolt: 49 lb-ft
Rear sway bar insulator bracket nut: 70 lb-ft
Rear sway bar link nuts: 53 lb-f


In the time it takes to jack the car up and take the tires on and off I'd already have the new links installed. I did front and rear sways with metal links and new bushings in 45 minutes. One of the easiest mods I've done. Nice tip on the silicone grease from Ace. I couldn't find it anywhere and never thought to look there.






