Oil additives for winter storage?
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Oil additives for winter storage?
Should I add Slick 50 or another oil additive before winter storage ?
I will run the car for about 15 min once each week ( to warm it up ) and I'll add gas stabilizer , but it might not move much for the next 3 months. Should I add something to the oil to help the cold start lube issue?
I'll also change the oil in the spring to get rid of any moisture buldup before I start regular driving ( weekends only). The garage isn't heated but it rarely gets very much below freezing. I doubt that I'll have any problems either way but my 2000C C5 has only 18K mi and I plan to keep it for a LONG time , with maybe 3K usage per year so an additive that helps old starts might be a good idea.
Maybe I'll also get a beer fridge to keep my car company. It will produce enough heat to break the chill and save me from walking extra steps to get resupplied after each inspection and wash/wax activity . i need another fridge anyway, so I can keep it in the basement TV room in the summer, then move it to the garage in the winter.
I will run the car for about 15 min once each week ( to warm it up ) and I'll add gas stabilizer , but it might not move much for the next 3 months. Should I add something to the oil to help the cold start lube issue?
I'll also change the oil in the spring to get rid of any moisture buldup before I start regular driving ( weekends only). The garage isn't heated but it rarely gets very much below freezing. I doubt that I'll have any problems either way but my 2000C C5 has only 18K mi and I plan to keep it for a LONG time , with maybe 3K usage per year so an additive that helps old starts might be a good idea.
Maybe I'll also get a beer fridge to keep my car company. It will produce enough heat to break the chill and save me from walking extra steps to get resupplied after each inspection and wash/wax activity . i need another fridge anyway, so I can keep it in the basement TV room in the summer, then move it to the garage in the winter.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Additives seem to be discouraged
for normal use, and even for hard use, but many seem to like synthetic oil. I'm not sure its worth the extra expense if I change the oil once a year with less than 3K usage..every spring.
For my low mile usage profile, I'm more concerned about the cold start issue when the oil isn't circulating .
Right now, the garage is cold so I run the car for the length of time it takes me to finish a scotch. It work best when it's cold so that the ice cubes don't melt too quick and the car gets nice and warm. I was judging the warm up time by a beer, but it didn't last long enough .
Thats why I need a beer mini-fridge in the garage. It really takes a 2 beer interval for a good warmup and my baby gets upset when leave her unattended while I get a refill.
For my low mile usage profile, I'm more concerned about the cold start issue when the oil isn't circulating .
Right now, the garage is cold so I run the car for the length of time it takes me to finish a scotch. It work best when it's cold so that the ice cubes don't melt too quick and the car gets nice and warm. I was judging the warm up time by a beer, but it didn't last long enough .
Thats why I need a beer mini-fridge in the garage. It really takes a 2 beer interval for a good warmup and my baby gets upset when leave her unattended while I get a refill.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 35,874
Likes: 1,600
From: Honolulu HI
No wonder you only put 3K mi per year on the car...you're too busy drinking! I thought I was the only one...and my car doesn't get put away for winter.
My C5Z gets along just fine with my beer fridge...I recomend you get one and keep it well stocked.
I've often wondered why oil accumulators/pre-oilers aren't more popular on these cars? I don't hear anybody talking about these, but these would come in handy for cars that sit for long duration.
My C5Z gets along just fine with my beer fridge...I recomend you get one and keep it well stocked.
I've often wondered why oil accumulators/pre-oilers aren't more popular on these cars? I don't hear anybody talking about these, but these would come in handy for cars that sit for long duration.
Last edited by MTPZ06; Dec 27, 2009 at 01:10 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
Slick 50 or any other crap will only serve to increase viscosity and slow the circulation of oil when you start it. If you are not running synthetic, have you read the owners manual. The oil is required to meet a GM specification, which requires the use of synthetic oil.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,876
Likes: 1
From: Jersey Shore Exit 98
No oil additives needed for the vette. Most of its snake oil anyway. But you should chg your oil & filter before winter storage. Use a good synthetic 5w-30 and a good filter. The gas additive stabil can't hurt. As far as the battery a 2amp battery tender will do the trick, there is really no need to start her up & let idle. Unless you need an excuse to go to the garage. I do like the beer frig. I have a stereo also and thinking how I can get a flat screen out to the garage.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 16,795
Likes: 62
From: Lake Havasu City, AZ
Sorry to tell you this but most of what you are planning to do are the worst possible things you can do.
The only good thing is the fuel stabilizer. I prefer SeaFoam as it stabilizes the fuel, controls moisture in the fuel system and helps clean and lubricate.
1. Change the oil BEFORE hibernation. Get the water and acids that result from the combustion process out before storage. Leaving them in only accelerate internal corrosion.
2. Do NOT start the car every week. Yes most wear occurs on cold starts.... so why do more that necessary?
3. Do NOT start the car every couple weeks and warm it up for 15 minutes. You need much longer to boil off the moisture your are creating from those short cold starts.
4. If you are worried about infrequent useage and cold starts switch to Mobil 1 0W30. It meets GM4718M, the oil spec for your car. 0W30 will get oil through the lubrication passages and to critical wear surfaces faster than any snake oil.
5. Buy a battery float charger and keep you car on charge whenever you are not using it. Infrequent use leads to slow battery discharge. That is the best way to build sulphate deposits on the battery plates and kill your battery prematruely.
You can get a good float charger at Harbor Freight for under $10 tax incl.
The only good thing is the fuel stabilizer. I prefer SeaFoam as it stabilizes the fuel, controls moisture in the fuel system and helps clean and lubricate.
1. Change the oil BEFORE hibernation. Get the water and acids that result from the combustion process out before storage. Leaving them in only accelerate internal corrosion.
2. Do NOT start the car every week. Yes most wear occurs on cold starts.... so why do more that necessary?
3. Do NOT start the car every couple weeks and warm it up for 15 minutes. You need much longer to boil off the moisture your are creating from those short cold starts.
4. If you are worried about infrequent useage and cold starts switch to Mobil 1 0W30. It meets GM4718M, the oil spec for your car. 0W30 will get oil through the lubrication passages and to critical wear surfaces faster than any snake oil.
5. Buy a battery float charger and keep you car on charge whenever you are not using it. Infrequent use leads to slow battery discharge. That is the best way to build sulphate deposits on the battery plates and kill your battery prematruely.
You can get a good float charger at Harbor Freight for under $10 tax incl.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Sorry to tell you this but most of what you are planning to do are the worst possible things you can do.
The only good thing is the fuel stabilizer. I prefer SeaFoam as it stabilizes the fuel, controls moisture in the fuel system and helps clean and lubricate.
1. Change the oil BEFORE hibernation. Get the water and acids that result from the combustion process out before storage. Leaving them in only accelerate internal corrosion.
2. Do NOT start the car every week. Yes most wear occurs on cold starts.... so why do more that necessary?
3. Do NOT start the car every couple weeks and warm it up for 15 minutes. You need much longer to boil off the moisture your are creating from those short cold starts.
4. If you are worried about infrequent usage and cold starts switch to Mobil 1 0W30. It meets GM4718M, the oil spec for your car. 0W30 will get oil through the lubrication passages and to critical wear surfaces faster than any snake oil.
5. Buy a battery float charger and keep you car on charge whenever you are not using it. Infrequent use leads to slow battery discharge. That is the best way to build sulphate deposits on the battery plates and kill your battery prematruely.
You can get a good float charger at Harbor Freight for under $10 tax incl.
The only good thing is the fuel stabilizer. I prefer SeaFoam as it stabilizes the fuel, controls moisture in the fuel system and helps clean and lubricate.
1. Change the oil BEFORE hibernation. Get the water and acids that result from the combustion process out before storage. Leaving them in only accelerate internal corrosion.
2. Do NOT start the car every week. Yes most wear occurs on cold starts.... so why do more that necessary?
3. Do NOT start the car every couple weeks and warm it up for 15 minutes. You need much longer to boil off the moisture your are creating from those short cold starts.
4. If you are worried about infrequent usage and cold starts switch to Mobil 1 0W30. It meets GM4718M, the oil spec for your car. 0W30 will get oil through the lubrication passages and to critical wear surfaces faster than any snake oil.
5. Buy a battery float charger and keep you car on charge whenever you are not using it. Infrequent use leads to slow battery discharge. That is the best way to build sulphate deposits on the battery plates and kill your battery prematruely.
You can get a good float charger at Harbor Freight for under $10 tax incl.
Like rws.1 stated, " Do NOT start the car every couple weeks and warm it up for 15 minutes. You need much longer to boil off the moisture your are creating from those short cold starts." Condensation in the crankcase is what your trying to eliminate. Your adding more.
Why don't you just take the car out on nice days when the roads are clear? Drive if for an hour or so and return it to th garage.
BC
Banned Scam/Spammer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,093
Likes: 267
From: Oklahoma City
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17,'19,'22
I agree mostly with the others. Get a good battery charger/tender like the Ctek 3300 and you'll be good to go.
http://www.shop.jwmotoring.com/categ...?categoryId=43
http://www.shop.jwmotoring.com/categ...?categoryId=43
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,479
Likes: 36
Sorry to tell you this but most of what you are planning to do are the worst possible things you can do.
The only good thing is the fuel stabilizer. I prefer SeaFoam as it stabilizes the fuel, controls moisture in the fuel system and helps clean and lubricate.
1. Change the oil BEFORE hibernation. Get the water and acids that result from the combustion process out before storage. Leaving them in only accelerate internal corrosion.
2. Do NOT start the car every week. Yes most wear occurs on cold starts.... so why do more that necessary?
3. Do NOT start the car every couple weeks and warm it up for 15 minutes. You need much longer to boil off the moisture your are creating from those short cold starts.
4. If you are worried about infrequent useage and cold starts switch to Mobil 1 0W30. It meets GM4718M, the oil spec for your car. 0W30 will get oil through the lubrication passages and to critical wear surfaces faster than any snake oil.
5. Buy a battery float charger and keep you car on charge whenever you are not using it. Infrequent use leads to slow battery discharge. That is the best way to build sulphate deposits on the battery plates and kill your battery prematruely.
You can get a good float charger at Harbor Freight for under $10 tax incl.
The only good thing is the fuel stabilizer. I prefer SeaFoam as it stabilizes the fuel, controls moisture in the fuel system and helps clean and lubricate.
1. Change the oil BEFORE hibernation. Get the water and acids that result from the combustion process out before storage. Leaving them in only accelerate internal corrosion.
2. Do NOT start the car every week. Yes most wear occurs on cold starts.... so why do more that necessary?
3. Do NOT start the car every couple weeks and warm it up for 15 minutes. You need much longer to boil off the moisture your are creating from those short cold starts.
4. If you are worried about infrequent useage and cold starts switch to Mobil 1 0W30. It meets GM4718M, the oil spec for your car. 0W30 will get oil through the lubrication passages and to critical wear surfaces faster than any snake oil.
5. Buy a battery float charger and keep you car on charge whenever you are not using it. Infrequent use leads to slow battery discharge. That is the best way to build sulphate deposits on the battery plates and kill your battery prematruely.
You can get a good float charger at Harbor Freight for under $10 tax incl.
Now that is good advice!! As far as Slick 50 or other oil additives are concerned, you don't need them or want them......period.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 11,405
Likes: 26
From: Whippany NJ
CI 6-7-8-9 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
NCM Sinkhole Donor
You need to drive it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,334
Likes: 11
From: las vegas nv.
I agree mostly with the others. Get a good battery charger/tender like the Ctek 3300 and you'll be good to go.
http://www.shop.jwmotoring.com/categ...?categoryId=43
http://www.shop.jwmotoring.com/categ...?categoryId=43
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,993
Likes: 7
From: LaPine Oregon
absolutely correct........
Sorry to tell you this but most of what you are planning to do are the worst possible things you can do.
The only good thing is the fuel stabilizer. I prefer SeaFoam as it stabilizes the fuel, controls moisture in the fuel system and helps clean and lubricate.
1. Change the oil BEFORE hibernation. Get the water and acids that result from the combustion process out before storage. Leaving them in only accelerate internal corrosion.
2. Do NOT start the car every week. Yes most wear occurs on cold starts.... so why do more that necessary?
3. Do NOT start the car every couple weeks and warm it up for 15 minutes. You need much longer to boil off the moisture your are creating from those short cold starts.
4. If you are worried about infrequent useage and cold starts switch to Mobil 1 0W30. It meets GM4718M, the oil spec for your car. 0W30 will get oil through the lubrication passages and to critical wear surfaces faster than any snake oil.
5. Buy a battery float charger and keep you car on charge whenever you are not using it. Infrequent use leads to slow battery discharge. That is the best way to build sulphate deposits on the battery plates and kill your battery prematruely.
You can get a good float charger at Harbor Freight for under $10 tax incl.
The only good thing is the fuel stabilizer. I prefer SeaFoam as it stabilizes the fuel, controls moisture in the fuel system and helps clean and lubricate.
1. Change the oil BEFORE hibernation. Get the water and acids that result from the combustion process out before storage. Leaving them in only accelerate internal corrosion.
2. Do NOT start the car every week. Yes most wear occurs on cold starts.... so why do more that necessary?
3. Do NOT start the car every couple weeks and warm it up for 15 minutes. You need much longer to boil off the moisture your are creating from those short cold starts.
4. If you are worried about infrequent useage and cold starts switch to Mobil 1 0W30. It meets GM4718M, the oil spec for your car. 0W30 will get oil through the lubrication passages and to critical wear surfaces faster than any snake oil.
5. Buy a battery float charger and keep you car on charge whenever you are not using it. Infrequent use leads to slow battery discharge. That is the best way to build sulphate deposits on the battery plates and kill your battery prematruely.
You can get a good float charger at Harbor Freight for under $10 tax incl.
Last edited by dieseldave56; Dec 29, 2009 at 05:30 AM.
Drifting
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,490
Likes: 17
From: Oakville, Ontario
Great advise
Sorry to tell you this but most of what you are planning to do are the worst possible things you can do.
The only good thing is the fuel stabilizer. I prefer SeaFoam as it stabilizes the fuel, controls moisture in the fuel system and helps clean and lubricate.
1. Change the oil BEFORE hibernation. Get the water and acids that result from the combustion process out before storage. Leaving them in only accelerate internal corrosion.
2. Do NOT start the car every week. Yes most wear occurs on cold starts.... so why do more that necessary?
3. Do NOT start the car every couple weeks and warm it up for 15 minutes. You need much longer to boil off the moisture your are creating from those short cold starts.
4. If you are worried about infrequent useage and cold starts switch to Mobil 1 0W30. It meets GM4718M, the oil spec for your car. 0W30 will get oil through the lubrication passages and to critical wear surfaces faster than any snake oil.
5. Buy a battery float charger and keep you car on charge whenever you are not using it. Infrequent use leads to slow battery discharge. That is the best way to build sulphate deposits on the battery plates and kill your battery prematruely.
You can get a good float charger at Harbor Freight for under $10 tax incl.
The only good thing is the fuel stabilizer. I prefer SeaFoam as it stabilizes the fuel, controls moisture in the fuel system and helps clean and lubricate.
1. Change the oil BEFORE hibernation. Get the water and acids that result from the combustion process out before storage. Leaving them in only accelerate internal corrosion.
2. Do NOT start the car every week. Yes most wear occurs on cold starts.... so why do more that necessary?
3. Do NOT start the car every couple weeks and warm it up for 15 minutes. You need much longer to boil off the moisture your are creating from those short cold starts.
4. If you are worried about infrequent useage and cold starts switch to Mobil 1 0W30. It meets GM4718M, the oil spec for your car. 0W30 will get oil through the lubrication passages and to critical wear surfaces faster than any snake oil.
5. Buy a battery float charger and keep you car on charge whenever you are not using it. Infrequent use leads to slow battery discharge. That is the best way to build sulphate deposits on the battery plates and kill your battery prematruely.
You can get a good float charger at Harbor Freight for under $10 tax incl.
great advise
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 6
From: NS
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,150
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
Ya, do not idle the car for 15 minutes every week.
Do read the owners manual and follow the requirement for synthetic oil.
The worst time for storage is if the air temperature around the vehicle goes through freezing. condensation will form on the metal as the air warms up. Best is to ensure it either stays frozen or put in some heat to keep it above freezing at all times.
The engine will be fine with an oil change before storage and just left parked. Heck, years ago I pulled an old 400ci engine out of a station wagon that had been sitting in a back yard for at least 7 or 8 years and never ran. Hooked up a good battery and a temporary fuel tank and it fired right up. It ran great with absolutely no oil burning either. I'm in a 4 season climate here, lots of rain and snow. Did a similar thing with a 350 too which I later tore down to build stronger and it had no internal signs of the abandonment. If those engines can survive that unscathed then a winter in a garage is a cake walk.
Personally, I don't trust fuel stabilizer much either. Dad, for some odd reason, decided to put it into all his stuff one fall - tractors, lawn mowers, rotor tiller etc. Oddly, everything had fuel problems in the spring. That stuff turned the gas into gunk that clogged everything. Funny, went about 30 years on a farm and everything ran each spring except for an odd problem here and there.
Peter
Do read the owners manual and follow the requirement for synthetic oil.
The worst time for storage is if the air temperature around the vehicle goes through freezing. condensation will form on the metal as the air warms up. Best is to ensure it either stays frozen or put in some heat to keep it above freezing at all times.
The engine will be fine with an oil change before storage and just left parked. Heck, years ago I pulled an old 400ci engine out of a station wagon that had been sitting in a back yard for at least 7 or 8 years and never ran. Hooked up a good battery and a temporary fuel tank and it fired right up. It ran great with absolutely no oil burning either. I'm in a 4 season climate here, lots of rain and snow. Did a similar thing with a 350 too which I later tore down to build stronger and it had no internal signs of the abandonment. If those engines can survive that unscathed then a winter in a garage is a cake walk.
Personally, I don't trust fuel stabilizer much either. Dad, for some odd reason, decided to put it into all his stuff one fall - tractors, lawn mowers, rotor tiller etc. Oddly, everything had fuel problems in the spring. That stuff turned the gas into gunk that clogged everything. Funny, went about 30 years on a farm and everything ran each spring except for an odd problem here and there.
Peter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,251
Likes: 16
From: Phoenix Arizona
if your storing for over 6 months use aviation fuel, it is designed for storage and has the proper additives to prevent varnish etc from forming in carbs and fuel injected engines 
less than 6 months don't bother
less than 6 months don't bother