fouling plugs need help
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 90
From: FT. LAUDERDALE FL
fouling plugs need help
hi well been running great, the other day had some flooding in my area and went through a big puddle car shortly started to miss, checked the plugs and they were all fouled so we cleaned them all and it ran great for about a half hour to a hour then started to miss reallly bad again, is there a senser on the motor that my have gotten wet that would make it run rich i am not getting any codes, maybe the mass air sensor is giving the wrong reading or something, any advice would be great, just so you know i am running a sts system on the car, its been on there for about 2 years, thank you
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
You need to read and post ALL of your DTCs. Thats the only way anyone is going to be able to assist you. Other wise it is going to be ONE BIG GUESSING GAME!
Yes there are sensors that if they get wet, they wont work but,,,the list is LONG.
Post your DCTs. If there are tons of them, CLEAR them all and take the car for a drive and see hat comes back and then post those DTCs
If you don't know how to read and post your own codes, heres the write up you need:
READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.
Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.
Here is very good site of DTC definitions:
http://www.gearchatter.com
Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!
Yes there are sensors that if they get wet, they wont work but,,,the list is LONG.
Post your DCTs. If there are tons of them, CLEAR them all and take the car for a drive and see hat comes back and then post those DTCs
If you don't know how to read and post your own codes, heres the write up you need:
READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.
Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.
Here is very good site of DTC definitions:
http://www.gearchatter.com
Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 90
From: FT. LAUDERDALE FL
thanks i will do that tomorrow
You need to read and post ALL of your DTCs. Thats the only way anyone is going to be able to assist you. Other wise it is going to be ONE BIG GUESSING GAME!
Yes there are sensors that if they get wet, they wont work but,,,the list is LONG.
Post your DCTs. If there are tons of them, CLEAR them all and take the car for a drive and see hat comes back and then post those DTCs
If you don't know how to read and post your own codes, heres the write up you need:
READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.
Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.
Here is very good site of DTC definitions:
http://www.gearchatter.com
Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!
Yes there are sensors that if they get wet, they wont work but,,,the list is LONG.
Post your DCTs. If there are tons of them, CLEAR them all and take the car for a drive and see hat comes back and then post those DTCs
If you don't know how to read and post your own codes, heres the write up you need:
READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs)
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.
Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes)
If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present;
press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET
To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.
Here is very good site of DTC definitions:
http://www.gearchatter.com
Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 90
From: FT. LAUDERDALE FL
ok checked the DTC codes and heres what i got, only one current code the rest in history but i will list them all any maybe someone can tell me which are relevent to my problem, thank you
PCM, - P0171C
TCS, - C1287H, C1288H,
SDM, - U1016H
AU LDCM, - B2282H, B2286H, B2284H, U1255H, U1064H, U1016H, U1096 H
A1 RDCM, - B2283H, B2287H, B2285H, U1255H, U1064H, U1016H, U1096 H
BO RFA, - U1096H, U1016H
IT SEEMS SOME OF THEM REPETE THEMSELF IN THE DIFFERENT MODULES I DONT KNOW WHAT THAT MEANS. ANY HELP WILL BE GREAT THANK YOU.
PCM, - P0171C
TCS, - C1287H, C1288H,
SDM, - U1016H
AU LDCM, - B2282H, B2286H, B2284H, U1255H, U1064H, U1016H, U1096 H
A1 RDCM, - B2283H, B2287H, B2285H, U1255H, U1064H, U1016H, U1096 H
BO RFA, - U1096H, U1016H
IT SEEMS SOME OF THEM REPETE THEMSELF IN THE DIFFERENT MODULES I DONT KNOW WHAT THAT MEANS. ANY HELP WILL BE GREAT THANK YOU.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 90
From: FT. LAUDERDALE FL
Bump
ok checked the dtc codes and heres what i got, only one current code the rest in history but i will list them all any maybe someone can tell me which are relevent to my problem, thank you
pcm, - p0171c
tcs, - c1287h, c1288h,
sdm, - u1016h
au ldcm, - b2282h, b2286h, b2284h, u1255h, u1064h, u1016h, u1096 h
a1 rdcm, - b2283h, b2287h, b2285h, u1255h, u1064h, u1016h, u1096 h
bo rfa, - u1096h, u1016h
it seems some of them repete themself in the different modules i dont know what that means. Any help will be great thank you.
pcm, - p0171c
tcs, - c1287h, c1288h,
sdm, - u1016h
au ldcm, - b2282h, b2286h, b2284h, u1255h, u1064h, u1016h, u1096 h
a1 rdcm, - b2283h, b2287h, b2285h, u1255h, u1064h, u1016h, u1096 h
bo rfa, - u1096h, u1016h
it seems some of them repete themself in the different modules i dont know what that means. Any help will be great thank you.
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Heres what the DTC P0171 or P0174 indicates>
DTC P0171 or P0174
Circuit Description
The powertrain control module (PCM) controls the air/fuel metering system in order to provide the best possible combination of driveability, fuel economy, and emission control. Fuel delivery is controlled differently during open and closed loop. During open loop, the PCM determines fuel delivery based on sensor signals without oxygen sensor input. During closed loop, the oxygen sensor inputs are added and used by the PCM to calculate short and long term fuel trim fuel delivery adjustments. If the oxygen sensors indicate a lean condition, fuel trim values will be above 0 percent. If the oxygen sensors indicate a rich condition, fuel trim values will be below 0 percent. Short term fuel trim values change rapidly in response to the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) voltage signals. Long term fuel trim makes coarse adjustments in order to maintain an air/fuel ratio of 14.7:1. If the PCM detects an excessively lean condition, this DTC will set.
The U series DTCs indicate a loss of communications. I agree. Clear all and see what comes back. Make sure that your battery is fully charged before you restart it. A low battery will set DTCs when you crank the engine.
BC
DTC P0171 or P0174
Circuit Description
The powertrain control module (PCM) controls the air/fuel metering system in order to provide the best possible combination of driveability, fuel economy, and emission control. Fuel delivery is controlled differently during open and closed loop. During open loop, the PCM determines fuel delivery based on sensor signals without oxygen sensor input. During closed loop, the oxygen sensor inputs are added and used by the PCM to calculate short and long term fuel trim fuel delivery adjustments. If the oxygen sensors indicate a lean condition, fuel trim values will be above 0 percent. If the oxygen sensors indicate a rich condition, fuel trim values will be below 0 percent. Short term fuel trim values change rapidly in response to the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) voltage signals. Long term fuel trim makes coarse adjustments in order to maintain an air/fuel ratio of 14.7:1. If the PCM detects an excessively lean condition, this DTC will set.
The U series DTCs indicate a loss of communications. I agree. Clear all and see what comes back. Make sure that your battery is fully charged before you restart it. A low battery will set DTCs when you crank the engine.
BC
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: E-City NC
hi well been running great, the other day had some flooding in my area and went through a big puddle car shortly started to miss, checked the plugs and they were all fouled so we cleaned them all and it ran great for about a half hour to a hour then started to miss reallly bad again,
Just a thought
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,340
Likes: 2
From: Moro IL
Lean on both banks normally ends up being damaged or loose intake components (eg. air intake piping downstream of mass airflow sensor), damaged or faulty MAF, vacuum leak, damaged ECT or IAT, or weak fuel system. Given that you know you went through a big puddle just before this happened I'd start with checking your intake system up to the throttlebody, especially take a close look at the mass airflow sensor , it may have ingested enough water to damage the heated wire elements. If nothing obvious can be found it might be time to take it to a professional. If I had to make a guess, I'd say the MAF got damaged, but without having it at my shop it would just be an educated guess.
Pat Kunz
Pat Kunz
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 90
From: FT. LAUDERDALE FL
already cleaned the air filter it was ok just dirty, not wet, its a sts system so the air filters are in the back and its a long way to get water into the intake, i read that water intrusion in the o2 sensor plugs could make it run rich as well i will be checking them in a little while
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,420
Likes: 0
From: Boston MA
I agree. Make sure your car didnt try to take a gulp of water. Also, check your wires and plugs again to be sure. You may have to pull the plugs to check their condition.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,962
Likes: 29
From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
I would suggest that you check the airbridge assembly and make sure its still properly connected on the bottom where its not so obvious. Also, you might wish to use brake cleaner spray or electrical parts cleaner and spray out the MAF sensor as it might have become contaminated by the water deluge. Air filters as mentioned obviously, then clear the codes, run it and pull them again.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 90
From: FT. LAUDERDALE FL
yes cleared them, no codes come back,
its only the #1 plug fouling, and tried changing everything, plug, coil, wire, injector, still #1 plug fouling, found out the pcm controlls each injector seperatly, and which wire is for that injector, going to take down the pcm and clean all the connectors if that doesnt fix it i think we may try a different pcm.
its only the #1 plug fouling, and tried changing everything, plug, coil, wire, injector, still #1 plug fouling, found out the pcm controlls each injector seperatly, and which wire is for that injector, going to take down the pcm and clean all the connectors if that doesnt fix it i think we may try a different pcm.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 90
From: FT. LAUDERDALE FL
well cleaned all the plugs and even relocated the computer, the wires were getting squeezed against the intake pipes of the turbos, problem still there, going to try to get a used pcm and see if that fixes it
yes cleared them, no codes come back,
its only the #1 plug fouling, and tried changing everything, plug, coil, wire, injector, still #1 plug fouling, found out the pcm controlls each injector seperatly, and which wire is for that injector, going to take down the pcm and clean all the connectors if that doesnt fix it i think we may try a different pcm.
its only the #1 plug fouling, and tried changing everything, plug, coil, wire, injector, still #1 plug fouling, found out the pcm controlls each injector seperatly, and which wire is for that injector, going to take down the pcm and clean all the connectors if that doesnt fix it i think we may try a different pcm.