i have a 2001 conver/ about 4 weeks ago i started let run 15 minutes/ put it back in garage & covered it/ tryed to start 2 weeks ago, wont crank, battery is ok [had checked] check engine lite is on/ no codes/ everything else works. checked under hood fuses current both sides/ what next?

 

Will it jump?

 

do you mean jump the starter?

 

I mean, using a starter pack(or jumper cables), attached them to the appropriate pos/neg post on the battery, and see if the car starts.

 

no because the battery tested ok, well with in acceptible ranges. i have 12+ v leaving the battery and fuse panel, i still need to see the voltage at the solenoid but right now the car is a bit hard to get in the air, if we lose some snow i will see if it starts from a push & dump the clutch.

 

How are you reading the DTCs. If your using a CODE SCANER, some Body DTCs (BCM) will NOT show up.

If your not reading the DTCs using the internal IPC code reading function, you could have DTC and not see them:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes



The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.


Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current C code indicates a malfunction is present and active in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except English/Metric (E/M). Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press and hold the RESET button To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5. You can GOOGLE the DTC and also find information on it.




Here is very good site that explains the DTCs:


http://www.corvette-web-central.com/C5DTCcode.html


http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php



Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!



Unless theres a BCM issue the Primary and Secondary starting circuits are NOT monitored by DTCs. It does not interface the serial bus.

 

Ok. FYI, this would not be the first time a battery has tested good......and still had a problem. Good luck

 

I believe there should be codes if the CEL is on.

Check the wires connected to the battery. Not to say you'd do this, but I had the + wire come loose once, which simulated a dead battery, but it tested good.

If you still have internal power and such, then the starter is the next bet.

 

I was advised that to read codes from a non operational module a tool is [scan tester] is needed to rewad those codes. I did pose a question, if a starter relay switch went bad, would it show a code? also would that turn the check enine light? I want to test voltage at the solenid next, just a bit hard to get in the air right know. My frst was a 69 two topper, cant tell you how many starters went on that car. I also found it so much easier to work on [at age 21] that this 01 [at my now age of 60] but near as much fun to drive. I have had this one a year, 50k miles and until this point trouble free.

 

I dont understand the advice that you received.

Just read all the DTCs from the Driver Informational Console (DIC) and post what you get.

Heck, I read mine while Im driving down the road.

Its very simple and works very well.

Heres the START schematic that you need:



Bill