Has anyone encountered the clutch pedal staying depressed on a moderate (5000 rpm) shift?! Pedal only stayed down briefly, but I have never had this happen before. Anybody?

 

do a search on modified MC clutch hydraulic line and you will find quite a bit of info on the topic. Shirl has put together a modified line that removes restrictions found in the OEM line. (also search on Mreracer)

I was part of the exchange program put together by Shirl and it works great. Replacing the line is somewhat of a bear as there is precious little room to gain access to it. I eventually pulled the inspection dust cover from the driver's side wheelwell to gain access. For you and others potentially participating in the exchange list, DON"T lose the tiny o-ring type gasket as you will not easily find a replacement. I found out the hard way as I mistakenly mailed my OEM line with washer back to Shirl (oops!!!). Everything works fine now, however.

Also, to those experiencing air in the line once removed, never fear, just ignore the service manual method for bleeding the line and just simply open the MC reservoir and just using your hand, pump the clutch pedal about 20 times and then stop. Allow for the air bubbles to escape then resume 20 more, then stop. After about 5-6 reps of this insanity, the air bubbles will have purged themselves from the line. Much better than the service manual that prescribes removing intermediate exhaust to access driveline tunnel inspection plate (thing must have 20 small bolts on it). I took one look at that nightmare and tried the hand purging method, and lo and behold, voila we have success.

Quite a few will disagree that it is even related to the restriction in the MC line. But, I would bet that most of those folks haven't taken the time to look for themselves for the restriction that is in place. Each his own, my .02, your results may vary...

 

I don't understand how pumping the pedal can purge the air, is there a return line or is it like a brake system? Don't you have to bleed from the opposite end?

 

The reason pumping the clutch bleeds the air out of the pipe is simple: the clutch master cyl is higher than the slave, you did not remove and get air into the slave, so when you pump the pedal, you are gently moving fluid(and air) up and down a line which basically is on an incline, the air bubbles eventually work their way to the top.
Brakes are different, the brake line goes down to the frame, then back up at the caliper, plus the 2nd high place in the brake system is at the top of the caliper, no way to purge air until opening the bleed screw which is on top(brake line comes in the side or bottom).


[Modified by LT1GMC, 7:52 AM 3/5/2002]

 

it's pretty cool how it works. The air bubbles work themselves out at a pretty good clip. Beats gettin' under the car, jacking around with your exhaust, removing the tunnel cover and searching for the bleed fitting and then only to have your buddy mash the clutch pedal resulting in a spewed effect of fluid on your chest. Try it you'll like it

 

Suppose I clean out my master cylinder, and then fill with new fluid. Can it get to the slave without opening the other end?

 

Hey, thanks for the info. I will definately try it. Again, thanks.

 

some folks have use various methods of suction to remove the old fluid including such wild things as turkey basters. After having luck with the manual method of removing air from the line, I would just go ahead and disconnect the line at the quick connect under the car and let it drain out.

However, just changing the fluid does nothing to remove the restriction in the line which, in my opinion, is the key to why the clutch pedal sticks to the floor.