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Head & Cam on my 1999 1st day

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Old 01-19-2010, 12:08 PM
  #41  
vettenuts
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Originally Posted by ILM-Express
Oh yeah PSI Maxlife springs (good for way over .600 lift)
Those are excellent springs that are often overlooked. Ran those on my Dart heads and also a friend is running those. Do you know the installed height/seat force?
Old 01-19-2010, 05:41 PM
  #42  
ILM-Express
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I would have to check with Advanced Induction because thet did all the work to the heads.

They did write a few numbers on them, I know about the 62cc chambers will have to look for the rest of the info



Originally Posted by vettenuts
Those are excellent springs that are often overlooked. Ran those on my Dart heads and also a friend is running those. Do you know the installed height/seat force?
Old 01-21-2010, 05:03 PM
  #43  
30MilesOffshore
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While you are at it, you might want to super size your tires as well.....

Old 01-21-2010, 06:11 PM
  #44  
Bill Curlee
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08

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Originally Posted by 30MilesOffshore
While you are at it, you might want to super size your tires as well.....




I did that well ahead of the Heads Cam install on my 02 Z. I have 315" on 19 X 11" CCWs.

Minutes into the first road test and tuning, the CLUTCH (which woked flawlesly with 390 Hp, 375 tq) gave up the ghost under full throttle. Sticks to the floor when it see full power 450 RWHP


BC
Old 01-21-2010, 07:35 PM
  #45  
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Waiting on my left hand to get better I took last night and tonight off.

I will continue working on the car tommorow night.
Old 01-21-2010, 08:08 PM
  #46  
1320n12
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Come on,get back in the garage and keep working.
Mechanics (like me) cant take a day off because we cut a finger,its not a days work until you smash,crush,cut some part of your body.
J/K looking forward to seeing the rest of the build


Scott
M&W Auto custom paint and performance
99 C5 A4
Old 01-21-2010, 11:09 PM
  #47  
printmanjackson
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
Those are excellent springs that are often overlooked. Ran those on my Dart heads and also a friend is running those. Do you know the installed height/seat force?
this is off their wedsite

http://psisprings.com/index.php?opti...ask=view&id=17
Old 01-21-2010, 11:34 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by printmanjackson
LS1511ML

Max Life Series Preparation (ML) - A proprietary, multi-step surface enhancement process that has been proven to increase spring endurance, Max Life processing is available for any level of PSI spring and is very beneficial for those looking for increased endurance while maintaining their existing set-up.
PSI, #1 in valve spring technology today. Every PSI spring begins with wire that is made with the highest quality Chrome-Silicon alloys made from 100% Kobe steel, long considered critical to manufacturing the cleanest valve spring quality steel in the world. Through the use of the latest developments in melt technology, composition control and casting practices, these alloys are held to the strictest cleanliness standards ever offered. As a result, the use of these super clean materials also insures the lowest inclusion content possible. Each set is 100% quality inspected & pressure matched
Longer life means more laps per dollar

LS1/LS6 Hi-lift Beehive replacement, these springs deliver the open pressures required to maintain valve train stability, RPM and long spring life. Set of 16


1.290 OD Beehive
Max Life
.630 in ID
.625 max lift
130 lbs @ 1.800 installed height
370 lbs @ 1.175 open pressure
Spring rate 384 lbs
Coil Bind 1.100
Old 01-23-2010, 08:15 PM
  #49  
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Ok, today I clocked three hours on the car.

Removed power steering pump, it was a pain in the @$$ because of the Z51 oil cooler.



After that I lifted the car one side at the time to remove the tie rod end nut, quick tap on the bolts poped them right off. I had a fight with the rack because of the automatic transmission cooler lines. But I was able to push it it over to the passenger side and then pull the whole unit out the bottom center of the car.



It was a pain also removing the fan housing because of the ABS controller being on the way so I took all the mounting bolts to the unit off and pull it back while pulling the fan shroud up

Th radiator was also little harder do to the automatic cooler lines and the main harness on the passenger side of the radiator.







Now everything is out of the way so tommorow I will start with the rest.
Old 01-24-2010, 10:26 AM
  #50  
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What is the plan for pulley removal? Don't follow LS1howto.com for this.
Old 01-24-2010, 12:38 PM
  #51  
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OZ, looks like great progress so far, where did you get those killer heads? You will benefit from a flywheel locking tool when you get to the crank pulley Also, when you install that comp hr265 cam, I would recommend you degree the IVC (intake valve close) around 40-41 degrees ABDC @ 0.050 lobe lift. I installed this same cam a few years ago in my Wifes 2000 C5, and found that it produced a little too much torque at low mid rpms and ran out of steam around the stock cams RPM range(this was cam swap only). With the advance ground into this cam, the IVC will be around 38 ABDC if installed per the cam card. If you retard the cam a little, you will have a better balance of upper range RPM power. I have installed 4 H/C setups, and two Cam only swaps since 2004, and have always taken the time to degree the cams in. As a data point, I think the stock C5Z cam has an IVC around 42 degrees ABDC @ 0.050 lobe lift.

Keep the updates coming
Stan
Old 01-24-2010, 01:33 PM
  #52  
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Great thread !!
Thanks for taking the time posting pics.
Heads look GOOD !!
Love your ramps too !!
As a new member I am continually amazed at the info found on this site (installing my new Hurst shifter was a breeze due to info obtained on this site).
Old 01-24-2010, 01:37 PM
  #53  
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I can even get the bolt out with my 1/2 impact. I will have to make a locking device. I already have one I used with two other cars at work, I'll just have to modify it. What is wrong with their procedure ? I have not even seen it.




Originally Posted by vettenuts
What is the plan for pulley removal? Don't follow LS1howto.com for this.
Old 01-24-2010, 01:48 PM
  #54  
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I did clean the block a bit more today. I am using a gasket removing spray I bought at NAPA. It works ok, but I still have to scrape with my plastic tool and I also bought some not scratching blue 3M pads for the finishing touch. I still have more work to do on both specially the driver side.





Old 01-24-2010, 01:54 PM
  #55  
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Thanks for the info Stan, yeah those killer heads came from you, but they look like that because of CNC


Originally Posted by BlueRag
OZ, looks like great progress so far, where did you get those killer heads? You will benefit from a flywheel locking tool when you get to the crank pulley Also, when you install that comp hr265 cam, I would recommend you degree the IVC (intake valve close) around 40-41 degrees ABDC @ 0.050 lobe lift. I installed this same cam a few years ago in my Wifes 2000 C5, and found that it produced a little too much torque at low mid rpms and ran out of steam around the stock cams RPM range(this was cam swap only). With the advance ground into this cam, the IVC will be around 38 ABDC if installed per the cam card. If you retard the cam a little, you will have a better balance of upper range RPM power. I have installed 4 H/C setups, and two Cam only swaps since 2004, and have always taken the time to degree the cams in. As a data point, I think the stock C5Z cam has an IVC around 42 degrees ABDC @ 0.050 lobe lift.

Keep the updates coming
Stan
Old 01-24-2010, 01:58 PM
  #56  
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Welcome to the forum

Those ramps were made for me by a fellow Corvette Forum member and also Cape Fear Corvettes member. He did a great job, thanks again Bob



Originally Posted by VaPuller
Great thread !!
Thanks for taking the time posting pics.
Heads look GOOD !!
Love your ramps too !!
As a new member I am continually amazed at the info found on this site (installing my new Hurst shifter was a breeze due to info obtained on this site).
Old 01-24-2010, 02:03 PM
  #57  
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Nice thread thanks for posting the pics. On the pulley bolt I have read if tryining using a impact gun to remove the bolt your going to need around TRUE 800 ft lbs or higher quality impact gun to get that bolt out at times.

GL

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Old 01-24-2010, 02:11 PM
  #58  
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My twin hammer 450lbs MATCO could not do it

So I have to use plan B tommorow.


Originally Posted by TR97C5
Nice thread thanks for posting the pics. On the pulley bolt I have read if tryining using a impact gun to remove the bolt your going to need around TRUE 800 ft lbs or higher quality impact gun to get that bolt out at times.

GL
Old 01-24-2010, 03:06 PM
  #59  
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Impressed with those ramps! And nice job cleaning that engine! Oh the memories...........
Old 01-24-2010, 03:27 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by ILM-Express
My twin hammer 450lbs MATCO could not do it

So I have to use plan B tommorow.
You need to get a torch on the head of the bolt to soften up the locktite, then a breaker bar with extention.


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