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i posted a thread about my wiper motor not working. i bought a new one and it still didn't work. i checked voltage at the connector and got nothing. i pulled the dash apart and was not getting voltage to the switch either. i have checked all possible fuses and checked that i'm getting voltage to the fuses. also, my cig lighter under the radio isn't working. i'm guessing it's the wiper switch and the lighter are not getting voltage from the accessory wires, but i'm lost as to why. can someone help me diagnose this? this is a daily driver and we have to get the wipers going!
i posted a thread about my wiper motor not working. i bought a new one and it still didn't work. i checked voltage at the connector and got nothing. i pulled the dash apart and was not getting voltage to the switch either. i have checked all possible fuses and checked that i'm getting voltage to the fuses. also, my cig lighter under the radio isn't working. i'm guessing it's the wiper switch and the lighter are not getting voltage from the accessory wires, but i'm lost as to why. can someone help me diagnose this? this is a daily driver and we have to get the wipers going!
If you have 12 volts at minifuse #10 in the passenger footwell fuse box, and you do not have 12 volts at pin C of connector C219, then unfortunately, you have an open(or high resistance) in the wiring.
If you have 12 volts at minifuse #10 in the passenger footwell fuse box, and you do not have 12 volts at pin C of connector C219, then unfortunately, you have an open(or high resistance) in the wiring.
i was afraid of that. i didn't know if there was another connector inline that i was missing. any ideas on where to look? you think a previous owner may have cut a wire or two doing a stereo install? what route do they take from the fuse box to the switch?
i was afraid of that. i didn't know if there was another connector inline that i was missing. any ideas on where to look? you think a previous owner may have cut a wire or two doing a stereo install? what route do they take from the fuse box to the switch?
C219 is not inline, it's the connector for the switch......
true, but it's under the dash, not actually on the switch. i didn't know if there was another connector hidden behind the dash or not. i would assume not by looking at the wiring diagram.
if i'm seeing the diagram correctly, the yellow (143) accessory wire is the one that feeds from the fuse panel to the connector, then to the switch, correct? i'm also wondering if this issue is related to the lighter not working
true, but it's under the dash, not actually on the switch. i didn't know if there was another connector hidden behind the dash or not. i would assume not by looking at the wiring diagram.
if i'm seeing the diagram correctly, the yellow (143) accessory wire is the one that feeds from the fuse panel to the connector, then to the switch, correct? i'm also wondering if this issue is related to the lighter not working
The lighter is on a separate circuit...not related. The line side of the fuse is routed through the underhood electrical center, and then back to the switch.
The lighter is on a separate circuit...not related. The line side of the fuse is routed through the underhood electrical center, and then back to the switch.
i know they're not connected, i just meant related as in i wonder if someone cut the wires to both.
by underhood electrical center, do you mean the fuse panel under the hood? if so, i couldn't really locate the wire going in, but i didn't tear into it much. this is getting frustrating
i know they're not connected, i just meant related as in i wonder if someone cut the wires to both.
by underhood electrical center, do you mean the fuse panel under the hood? if so, i couldn't really locate the wire going in, but i didn't tear into it much. this is getting frustrating
Yes, the fuse panel under the hood. Well, I would not get frustrated. Honestly, this is a pretty easy system to troubleshoot, so if you take it to a qualified shop, they should find the issue quickly. Also, it might help to post your info, as there may be a local forum member who can lend a hand.
Yes, the fuse panel under the hood. Well, I would not get frustrated. Honestly, this is a pretty easy system to troubleshoot, so if you take it to a qualified shop, they should find the issue quickly. Also, it might help to post your info, as there may be a local forum member who can lend a hand.
Yes, the fuse panel under the hood. Well, I would not get frustrated. Honestly, this is a pretty easy system to troubleshoot, so if you take it to a qualified shop, they should find the issue quickly. Also, it might help to post your info, as there may be a local forum member who can lend a hand.
Good luck
I'll have to dig more into it this weekend. Just out of curiosity, why would they route the accessory wire through the underhood box when it doesn't appear to connect to anything there?
i'm the kind of person who will absolutely not take a car to a shop. i'll waste a couple months figuring it out on my own if i have to. now that my wife is back in town, i'll have her help me hold the meter probes while i dig deeper. i'm sure it's something dumb
I'll have to dig more into it this weekend. Just out of curiosity, why would they route the accessory wire through the underhood box when it doesn't appear to connect to anything there?
No idea.
Originally Posted by spoolin7
i'm the kind of person who will absolutely not take a car to a shop. i'll waste a couple months figuring it out on my own if i have to. now that my wife is back in town, i'll have her help me hold the meter probes while i dig deeper. i'm sure it's something dumb
thanks mike, i appreciate it. i have to put some time into her old car this weekend so we can get it sold, then if i get some free time, i'll dive back into this
whew, finally fixed. ended up being something simple as usual, but it took a lot of troubleshooting to figure it out:
1. Check fuse with meter to be sure. It was fine.
2. Checked voltage at fuse. Go right at 12V
3. Checked signal between fuse box and yellow wire at C219. Got signal from multimeter.
4. Check signal between yellow wire and all switched wires. All were fine.
5. Checked signal to wiper motor connector from C219. All was fine.
This should eliminate any chance of an open.
6. Popped fuse back in, checked yellow wire at wiper motor with key on. Got no voltage. WTF
7. Checked for voltage at C219. Nothing again.
8. Double checked fuse and voltage at fuse panel. All was still fine.
This lead me to believe there was a bad connection between the fuse and the connector in the panel.
9. Inserted paper clip in fuse panel (I don't condone this one bit, but had to try)
10. Checked for voltage at all connectors. Finally getting full 12V as I should.
11. Put fuse back in, got nothing again.
12. Double checked fuse, still fine.
13. Found spare fuse under hood, checked it to see if it was good, replaced fuse that was in spot 10. Still no voltage anywhere.
14. Sprayed WD40 on fuse terminals, reinserted fuse, and finally got voltage everywhere.
At this point, I can only assume the contacts were dirty and the WD40 helped clean it up when I put the fuse back in. Put the new motor in, and double checked operation. Everything worked as it should have. Put wiper assembly back in and reinstalled wipers. Everything is now functioning perfectly.
As I said, it was something totally simple and dumb, but took a ton of troubleshooting to narrow it down. Saved a ton of money by not going to the dealer. I'm sure they would have wanted me to buy another new motor and wiper switch, then a new fuse panel, etc.......
whew, finally fixed. ended up being something simple as usual, but it took a lot of troubleshooting to figure it out:
1. Check fuse with meter to be sure. It was fine.
2. Checked voltage at fuse. Go right at 12V
3. Checked signal between fuse box and yellow wire at C219. Got signal from multimeter.
4. Check signal between yellow wire and all switched wires. All were fine.
5. Checked signal to wiper motor connector from C219. All was fine.
This should eliminate any chance of an open.
6. Popped fuse back in, checked yellow wire at wiper motor with key on. Got no voltage. WTF
7. Checked for voltage at C219. Nothing again.
8. Double checked fuse and voltage at fuse panel. All was still fine.
This lead me to believe there was a bad connection between the fuse and the connector in the panel.
9. Inserted paper clip in fuse panel (I don't condone this one bit, but had to try)
10. Checked for voltage at all connectors. Finally getting full 12V as I should.
11. Put fuse back in, got nothing again.
12. Double checked fuse, still fine.
13. Found spare fuse under hood, checked it to see if it was good, replaced fuse that was in spot 10. Still no voltage anywhere.
14. Sprayed WD40 on fuse terminals, reinserted fuse, and finally got voltage everywhere.
At this point, I can only assume the contacts were dirty and the WD40 helped clean it up when I put the fuse back in. Put the new motor in, and double checked operation. Everything worked as it should have. Put wiper assembly back in and reinstalled wipers. Everything is now functioning perfectly.
As I said, it was something totally simple and dumb, but took a ton of troubleshooting to narrow it down. Saved a ton of money by not going to the dealer. I'm sure they would have wanted me to buy another new motor and wiper switch, then a new fuse panel, etc.......
Glad you found the issue.....a couple of things:
Using a paper clip is such a poor/unsafe choice. You could have achieved the same result with a fused jumper wire. Also, you should use some electrical contact cleaner. WD-40 is non-conductive, so it does not make much sense to spray a non-conductive product (that will leave a film/residue) on a fuse contact.
i appreciate the concern, but i've been dealing with electricity/electronics for over 12 years.
i know a paperclip is not wise, which is why i said i don't condone it. i didn't have a fused jumper laying around and i needed a fix. it had no load on it except the multi meter, unless there would have been a short and i was willing to take that chance.
as for the WD-40, it was designed to be used in military electronics to disperse water and inhibit corrosion. while it is non-conductive, it also does not serve as a dielectric in most applications. i've been using it on trailer connectors and igntion distributors for years. the connection obviously had some corrosion of some sort and i had no better way to clean it.
problem is now fixed and we can finally stop relying on rain-x