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While working on my install of the new cam and heads I looked at the crank gear for my timing set.
It's a Manley D/R with adjustable timing, when looking at the crank gear it has 0 marked on the keyway and the first tooth to the left shows R2.
Then on the next keyway its marked A2 and the tooth just to the left is marked 0.
So my question is, are our stock cams retarded 2* from the factory?
Has anyone degreed their cam with stock timing gears?
They don't really work that way. Where the retard and advance teeth are in relation to the numbers on the keyway holes isn't what sets the cam advance or retard, so the 0 isn't retarded 2 degrees even though it could look that way.
Not sure what you are asking. Sounds like there are three keyways, 2R, 2A and 0. For each keyway, there is a corresponding tooth on the lower gear that is used for alignment with the upper cam gear. This is similar to my Cloyes Hex-adjust.
I think vettenuts knows the answer to this for sure (I'm going off vague memory), but if I recall, when the crank sprocket dot is at top (12 o clock position ), the crank keyway is actually around the 4 o clock position.
So on a crank gear with multiple keyways, the correct dot will never be the one adjacent to it's corresponding keyway, it will be more across from it.
Also, it's common for the keyways to have different shapes to identify them...
rounded keyway for 0
square keyway for retard
triangular keyway for advance
Each one has it's own corresponding dot or marking for aligning with cam sprocket dot.
It gets even more confusing on crank sprockets with 9 keyways.
Last edited by Y2Kvert4me; Feb 3, 2010 at 05:01 PM.
The manley gear set actually uses 9 keyways marked R8-R2, 0, A2-A8, with corresponding markings on 9 teeth. The markings on the teeth don't line up with the keys in the least. They cut the keyways so that when you line the dot up on the cam gear with the appropriately marked tooth, you'll have your desired timing. A degree wheel is mandatory when you're using crazy set-ups like this.
Last edited by Its_Go_Time; Feb 3, 2010 at 08:05 PM.
Reason: made a boo boo
They are pretty simple once you have installed one. If you want it 0, use the 0 keyway and then line up the crank gear TOOTH marked 0 with the corresponding cam gear mark. If you want it advanced 2, use the A2 keyway and then line up the A2 crank gear tooth to the corresponding cam gear mark. Use the keyway mark that specifies the timing you want, and then use the tooth marked with the same marking to line up with the cam gear corresponding mark. I do like the markings on the Manley pieces. I REALLY like most everything Manley. They make our custom LS pistons, some awesome billet rods, and even the single beehive springs I am using in my big cam setup that have the same pressures as the popular .650 lift duals (really quiet valvetrain with those singles and properly measured pushrods)
The manley gear set actually uses 9 keyways marked R8-R2, 0, A2-A8, with corresponding markings on 9 teeth. The markings on the teeth don't line up with the keys in the least. They cut the keyways so that when you line the dot up on the cam gear with the appropriately marked tooth, you'll have your desired timing. A degree wheel is mandatory when you're using crazy set-ups like this.
This is exactly what I have, in your pic you show 0 on the key on the crank and 0 on the tooth.
I assume this is straight up, and yes I am using a degree wheel!
Just wanted to understand what I was looking at, thanks.
I guess I was asking 2 questions, the second one was if you use a stock timing set is your cam 2* retarded?