Help timing cover clearence issue
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,315
Likes: 17
From: Near Jacksonville Fl.
Help timing cover clearence issue
Will not fit after installing Manley doubler roller chain and Melling oil pump.
Working on my cam/heads and finally got cam degreed and I'm buttoning up the front end and the timing cover isn't even close to fitting.
Did a search but not much turned up, I seem to remember someone posting pic's of where to mod cover for this.
Is there a different cover for later models? Mines a 98 LS1.
Working on my cam/heads and finally got cam degreed and I'm buttoning up the front end and the timing cover isn't even close to fitting.
Did a search but not much turned up, I seem to remember someone posting pic's of where to mod cover for this.
Is there a different cover for later models? Mines a 98 LS1.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 782
Likes: 45
From: Toronto Ontario
I had to do quite a bit of clearing inside the cover before it would fit. If I remember correctly, I ended up putting it on a mill at work and cut down the area directly behind the seal, all the way around. I think I left about .030 for the seal to bottom out on. I then put high-spot blue on the inside of the cover and bolted it on *without* the gasket. The areas that touched the pump were laid back with a die grinder. Just keep repeating this with the blue until nothing touches anymore. Once you install it with the gasket, you'll have about 1/16 clearance. Lots of work!
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 192
Likes: 1
From: Ashton
Hi guys! Slp offers a stout roller timing chain and gear combo that bolts in place with no modifications. You also need to align the pump body on the engine with two fasteners to an initial force of 45in-lbs. This low torque level will allow you to center the pump body on the crank to avoid uneven wear in the pump. GM sella a special tool to center the oil pump,but there's an easy way to get this done without buying the tool.Slide two 0.002-inch-thick feeler gauge far enough into the pump so they are between the pump body and the snout180 degrees apart.Sweep the feeler gauge around the snout dia.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,246
Likes: 66
From: Middletown CT
WhenI did my Rollmaster double with ported LS6 pump, the cover was hitting the oil pump casting just in front of the flange for the oil pickup tube and on the other side just in front of the oil pressurre relief valve. I removed the material from the pump, not the cover. The pump casting is thick in those areas. The cover is not. You need to determine where yours is hitting.
Last edited by Greg_E; Feb 9, 2010 at 08:23 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
From: Uncasville CT
I just finished mine up with a Melling HV and a double roller. I had to; clearance the back of the pump housing, front of the pump housing, four areas of the timing cover, replace the pump cover bolts with button heads, and make new shims 0.025" thinner than the ones supplied with the double roller kit. I did find out that Scoggin Dickey has a new pump cover with countersunk screws that alleviates the timing cover seal area to pump front cover interference.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,315
Likes: 17
From: Near Jacksonville Fl.
Wow, looks like everyone has had different clearence issues depending on the pump used.
I used the stock LS6 Melling pump because I had no issues with pressure or any reason for high volume.
Anyway I had lots of clay left over from my P/V clearence checking so I clayed the inside of my cover and found my interference issues last night.
Like Gerg_E the pump inlet tube was hitting, I took care of that with my die grinder on the cover, and the top of my P/R valve on the pump cover was hitting so I removed it there instead of the cover.
Now it's off to the hardware store for some button head bolts for the pump to block.
I used the stock LS6 Melling pump because I had no issues with pressure or any reason for high volume.
Anyway I had lots of clay left over from my P/V clearence checking so I clayed the inside of my cover and found my interference issues last night.
Like Gerg_E the pump inlet tube was hitting, I took care of that with my die grinder on the cover, and the top of my P/R valve on the pump cover was hitting so I removed it there instead of the cover.
Now it's off to the hardware store for some button head bolts for the pump to block.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,292
Likes: 1,109
From: Dyer, IN
Wow, looks like everyone has had different clearence issues depending on the pump used.
I used the stock LS6 Melling pump because I had no issues with pressure or any reason for high volume.
Anyway I had lots of clay left over from my P/V clearence checking so I clayed the inside of my cover and found my interference issues last night.
Like Gerg_E the pump inlet tube was hitting, I took care of that with my die grinder on the cover, and the top of my P/R valve on the pump cover was hitting so I removed it there instead of the cover.
Now it's off to the hardware store for some button head bolts for the pump to block.
I used the stock LS6 Melling pump because I had no issues with pressure or any reason for high volume.
Anyway I had lots of clay left over from my P/V clearence checking so I clayed the inside of my cover and found my interference issues last night.
Like Gerg_E the pump inlet tube was hitting, I took care of that with my die grinder on the cover, and the top of my P/R valve on the pump cover was hitting so I removed it there instead of the cover.
Now it's off to the hardware store for some button head bolts for the pump to block.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,246
Likes: 66
From: Middletown CT
There are usually markings on the head of the bolt to tell you what grage the bolt is., grade 3, grade 5 , grade 8 etc. I'm not sure exatly what they are, but if you Google it I'm sure you can find it.
http://shopswarf.orconhosting.net.nz/boltid.htm
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...ade-Chart.aspx
http://shopswarf.orconhosting.net.nz/boltid.htm
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...ade-Chart.aspx
Last edited by Greg_E; Feb 10, 2010 at 03:50 PM. Reason: Deleted incorrect information. Added link
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,292
Likes: 1,109
From: Dyer, IN
There are usually markings on the head of the bolt to tell you what grage the bolt is., grade 3, grade 5 , grade 8 etc. I'm not sure exatly what they are, but if you Google it I'm sure you can find it. If I remember correctly a grade three bolt will have a a line at 12, 4, and 8 o'clock. Grade 5 will have 5 lines etc.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,315
Likes: 17
From: Near Jacksonville Fl.
There are usually markings on the head of the bolt to tell you what grage the bolt is., grade 3, grade 5 , grade 8 etc. I'm not sure exatly what they are, but if you Google it I'm sure you can find it. If I remember correctly a grade three bolt will have a a line at 12, 4, and 8 o'clock. Grade 5 will have 5 lines etc.
Metric bolts show nothing for low Grade, next is 8.8 then 10.9 then 12.9
Just for reference 10.9 is equivalent to a Grade 8 and after carefully looking at the bolts for the pump and cover and cam they are all the same grade 10.9 and the same size.
So it leads one to suspect the only reason there are grade 10.9 bolts holding the oil pump and timing cover on to the Aluminum block is so they don't get mixed up during assembly.
I just have a feeling the yield strength of the 10.9 bolt @ 130,000psi is far grater then the Aluminum they are threaded into.
BTW. in your first pic you have 8.8 bolts holding your pump on.
